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Joined: Aug 2005
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Wrench Fetcher
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I've been working all day to try and remove the instrument panel but can only get it about 1/2" out. It seems to get stopped at the lip of the back of the cluster. Is there some kinda trick to this?

I recently replaced the upper steering column bearings and now the signal piece slips down and can interrupt in changing gears. I've tightened the screw many times but it seems to break loose and slip down, particularly when I'm driving in heavy traffic. Any thoughts or did I miss something?


1958 Chevy 1/2 ton Apache Stepside Longbed
Never trust a driver with a collision shop courtesy car
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New Guy
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Have you unscrewed the speedo cable?

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Cruising in the Passing Lane
Cruising in the Passing Lane
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the cluster has some kinda screw protrusions around the edge [forget just where] that will take some gentle prying to get past them - it's a very tight fit, but you're not likely to damage anything, just get mad grin and either make sure all the wires are off, including the dash lights, or careful you don't suddenly pop it out so far ya rip a connection off .... seems I remember it working best to get either the top, bottom or one corner out first, just fergit which

the signal cup has a wedge piece that the screw jams against the column and they wear to the point they're too smooth to hold - they're available new [Old Car Centre has'em, #54-13340W], but usually a thin piece of rubber slipped in behind it will work, just means taking the wheel off to get it in there

Bill


Moved over to the Passing Lane

"When we tug a single thing in nature, we find it attached to the rest of the world" ~ John Muir
"When we tug a single thing on an old truck, we find it falls off" ~ me
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Wrench Fetcher
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I finally got it! Wiggle, wobble, wiggle, wobble and a touch of WD-40. It took about 4 hours on a nice day. I had just installed the speedo cable which started todays work and it has extra length. The oil guage wire, though, was a bit of a problem once I got the cluster over 1" out. I just couldn't seem to get it off the cluster.

Red, thanks for the recommendation. I'll visit my dad for the wheel remover and try that. I never had problems with it before but it's really starting to interfere with driving now.


1958 Chevy 1/2 ton Apache Stepside Longbed
Never trust a driver with a collision shop courtesy car
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Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 183
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Wrench Fetcher
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Oh, now I've done it. I put the Instrument cluster back in, put things back together and hooked up the battery. I got the engine working, radio, left signal but no right light. I suspect the green and blue wire lights are signal and the grey are backlights for the cluster but not sure. Any advice is appreciate.

Last edited by OldBlue58; 08/04/2009 3:24 AM.

1958 Chevy 1/2 ton Apache Stepside Longbed
Never trust a driver with a collision shop courtesy car
Photo Album
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 12,029
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Cruising in the Passing Lane
Cruising in the Passing Lane
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yes, grey are the dash lights, dark blue = right turn, light blue = left turn .... light green should be to the high beam indicator

Bill


Moved over to the Passing Lane

"When we tug a single thing in nature, we find it attached to the rest of the world" ~ John Muir
"When we tug a single thing on an old truck, we find it falls off" ~ me
Some TF series details & TF heater pics
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 183
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Wrench Fetcher
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Thank You! It all seems to work again. I forgot I was supposed to help someone move and got carried away with working on the truck. I learned a whole-lot new today. Thanks.


1958 Chevy 1/2 ton Apache Stepside Longbed
Never trust a driver with a collision shop courtesy car
Photo Album
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 12,029
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Cruising in the Passing Lane
Cruising in the Passing Lane
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big_eek I guess ya learned it's much more fascinating to work on the ol truck than move furniture grin

Bill


Moved over to the Passing Lane

"When we tug a single thing in nature, we find it attached to the rest of the world" ~ John Muir
"When we tug a single thing on an old truck, we find it falls off" ~ me
Some TF series details & TF heater pics
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 2,066
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'Bolter
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I have found that it is easier to disconnect the oil line from the engine first. It gives you more room to disconnect it from the dash panel.
Fred


1956 3100 Pickup/Red/350/3sp OD/PS/Disc Brakes
1957 Bel Air Sport Coupe/Red/355/TH350/PS/Disc Brakes
2017 Silverado LT Single Cab SB/Black/5.3/6 Speed Trans
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Wrench Fetcher
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Actually, it is more fascinating! I'll be more familiar the next time I work on it. Gotta few honks from my legs dangling out the window.

rfs56trk - I was thinking the same thing. I had real trouble trying to disconnect it from the cluster so worked around that. Next time I'll disconnect it at the engine.


1958 Chevy 1/2 ton Apache Stepside Longbed
Never trust a driver with a collision shop courtesy car
Photo Album

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