The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop pressure plate question

I don't know much so this is probably a mistake I made. When I installed my new clutch and pressure plate I noticed the fingers on the new pressure plate don't puch out like the old one did. Is that something that happens over time when it breaks in or did I skip (miss) a step on instalation. The pedal is really loose and when it finally engages it seems to work correct but I have not used it yet since my truck is still on jack stands and just a frame and driveline. I want to make any correction before I put the cab back on.
Thanks
Brian

Brian,

I would guess you purchased the clutch and pressure plate as a set, so there is no problem with them being compatible.

I think the fingers on the pressure plate are on a pivot. The more the disc is worn, the more the fingers will protrude.

Having a brand new full thickness clutch, the pressure plate is compressed more, hence the fingers don't stick out as much.

I am not sure on this theory..but, if you bought the setup as a matched set, and the pressure plate is tightened all the way down as it should be, it should be fine.

Be sure the throwout bearing is installed correctly, adjust the clutch (cab off??) and it should work properly. The most common mistake is have the disc in backwards. It might have had a stamp on it that said "engine side".


Stuart

Pretty sure it is all in correct. I really took my time on the installation. Now I am glad. How much play should the pedal have before contact?

Was there or is there two bolts in the presure plate that has red or yellow paint on them? Some plates have these to hold some presure of the disk for ease when installing,after you get disk lines up and plate tight you remove them.

Don

Also I seem to remember 2 different types of pressure plates.
1st is a Diaphram type that has multiple "arms"or levers all around the center hole to the tune of 18 as in my 1 Ton.
2nd is whats called the Borg and Beck style that only has 3 Fingers or Arms,what we as kids a long spell ago useta call a "3 Finger Clutch"
They were known for either bein "in or out" as in fully engaged or disengaged, NO In Between,
Also Known for needin 3 GOOD Men AND a Boy to push out the Pedal LOL
All this drivel leads us to the differences,
The Height or length of arm protrusion of the 2 different clutches Requires 2 different"Release" or Throwout Bearings.
I can remember about 3/4 of an inch difference in length between the 2
To make a short story LONG,
The throwout hasta match the pressure plate,
Now I need a Shot :p Stuart,where,s the JACK ?!
Hope this helps?

stevesr,

I'm following you around...my welfare check didn't show up so it's out with the JACK and in with the RIPPLE.

I remember the long throwout bearing/short throwout bearing thing, but for some reason, I thought that was a FERD quirk.

Stu-Kon Jack

There is 2 different diaphram type clutches. The older one the fingers are inside the housing & uses a long t.o. brg. The later one often called a beehive clutch the fingers stick out to the outer edge of the cover. It uses the short t.o. bearing. Most new replacements are the latter style. Either one works as long as the corresponding t.o. brg. is used. Adjust the linkage to get 1/2 to 1" of free play it should work.