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Joined: Nov 2008
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Shop Shark
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Had my sights on a 2 ton 1952 flatbed truck. Moved to slow and it was gone. Truly was more truck than what I needed. What I could certainly use though would be a 1 ton with dual rear wheels.

My question, short of finding a complete dual-rear wheel 1 ton in a mott of trees in Central Texas for a reasonable price, is the collective knowledge of this groups' opinion of retrofitting a 1/2 50s chevy truck (more readily available) onto a later model 1 ton truck frame. Would be looking at a early 80s chevrolet where powertrain parts are inexpensive and readily available at the local parts house. I am sure that cab mounting would be a bit of a challenge, and purely custom mounts would have to be designed and built. Has anyone tried this? I would love to know the outcome. Pick your brain a little.

Ideally, a 1ton chevy truck with 4 wheel drive would be my baby. I intend to put a flat bed on it regardless, so the rear end could be worked easy. Issues would come in front of frame width, as well as front track width and engine compartment.

I am welcome to any and all opinions as well as advice or guidance as to where I could find one all original. Thanks in advance.


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J
'Bolter
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I don't know how far you're willing to drive but here's a truck that would be a good start.
http://jonesboro.craigslist.org/cto/1204463378.html


'64 swb stepside (gone)
'57 1 ton
'53 phone truck
'59 swb
'46 1 1/2 ton
'68 swb gmc
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I think that would fit the bill if it was not a 10 hour drive. I may keep looking closer to home. Thanks for spotting it though. I'm gonna print it out and I may call. If he's not in a hurry to unload it, I may be able to work it out.

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Cruising in the Passing Lane
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I'd suggest you take a tape measure and do some research next time you see a 'late' 1-ton. Especially the four-wheel-drive ones. The track width is a lot wider than what an AD truck is really set up for.

Building mounts for what you descibe has been done, I've seen pictures. Also it would not be much different than what is done on the more common S-10 frame swaps, so looking at pictures of those might give you some ideas.

The differences between a 3/4-ton, 1-ton single wheel, and a 1-ton dually are not real great. You might broaden your search a little if your load demands are not great. The dually front hubs and brakes are not real hard to find and aside from the wheels that's the real difference between a dually and a single wheel truck.


1955 1st GMC Suburban | 1954 GMC 250 trailer puller project | 1954 GMC 250 Hydra-Matic | 1954 Chevy 3100 . 1947 Chevy COE | and more...
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I have a 1951 1 ton dually. I'd be happy to help with any measurements you need for comparison. I can say that the frame rails on my truck are 33" centers (36" outside to outside) which is the same as the early 80's Chevy's. My rails are flat, while the newer ones have a hump over the axle (like the 1/2 tons). You can still find these trucks pretty cheap, and used parts are available, because most guys are going the opposite direction and making them look like 1/2 or 3/4 tons. As far as parts availability and pricing,....most of my stuff is in stock at the local NAPA. Good luck and have fun!

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I shot a few guys that were selling body parts for these trucks on craigslist that if any were 1 tons, i'd be interested in a frame. I think I can find a cab fairly easy. Its the frame that is tough. And thanks for offering the measurements. If I go that route, I'll certainly be asking you lots of questions.

Thanks

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I have an uncut '54 1 ton dualie frame available if your still looking.

Bruce


My Trucks
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Hmm...I have a similar idea for my '53.
Not planning on a dually axle, just a 2-wheel drive platform. Suppose it would be easier to just get a 3500 frame / axle combo rather than modifiying the existing one. The only real headache I see is that the late model axles [1975-2000] are at least 8 inches wider [wheeltread] vs the stock '53 axles. I am thinking of building it with a 1 ton chassis, having owned both a 1989 4Dr and currently a 2000 4dr P/U, and want to make the "little truck" strong enuff to support a short-side dump bed. Ya never know what you will be carrying, so make it strong enuff to do the job in the first place. I also was wondering if anyone has tried to add metal to widen the front fenders, so the wheels don't stick out 4 inches. This would be a eye opener for sure if it can be done. Or are the fenders the same for 1 ton and a 1/2T cab, like they are on the Ford AA and Model A pickup Trucks?
I admit this is more custom work than a stock reassembly would be. The '53 is completely disassembled down to just the frame and axles, which makes it more fun and challenging to put it together as I see fit to.
My goal is to build it up with General Motors parts in a GMC truck. Lastly, does anyone have an idea where I could get a manual steering box, from and American-made car or truck?


1965 Olds F85 wagon
1969 Olds Cutlass
1965 Falcon Van
1969 El Camino
1972 GMC 3/4T
1972 K5 Blazer
1971 C10
1976 Suburban
1978 Suburban
1930 F**d AA Stake
1989 CK3500 2WD
2000 CK3500 4WD
1953 GMC 3100

1] *Note* All drawings are subject to engineering changes at any given time without notice of: barometric pressure, wind patterns, caffiene, or written authorization of the female.
2] Cash for Clunkers: You can have my truck, after it has turned into a pile of rust in the driveway.
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The fenders are the same on a 1/2-, 3/4- and 1-ton. And most the rest of the front stuff too. I say most because 1-ton front bumpers are different.

I've seen pictures of fenders being widened, but they were on an Art Deco truck, not an Advance Design (New Design if yours is a GMC).

If you go all the way back into the 70's you may be able to mitigate some of the extra width with your wheel choice. I've seen wheels from a 2000-ish Dodge used where the issue pretty much went away. Unfortunately I never figured out exactly what Dodge the wheels came from.


1955 1st GMC Suburban | 1954 GMC 250 trailer puller project | 1954 GMC 250 Hydra-Matic | 1954 Chevy 3100 . 1947 Chevy COE | and more...
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'Bolter
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Those big flatbeds are everywhere and usually difficult to sell so you should be able to pick one up for a song. A local buddy of mine had a nice running 57 flatbed given to him. Also I'd think it would be much easier to stick with the original frame and build on that whatever you want vs. grafting an old body on a new frame. my 2 cents!

Last edited by JiMerit; 07/24/2009 9:58 PM.

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1946 1/2-Ton Chevy
1953 Chevy 3/4-ton Factory Stakebed
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Cruising in the Passing Lane
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Being in the midst of swapping later suspension on an old frame I do not understand how anyone concludes a suspension swap is always easier or better than a frame swap when dealing with these old trucks.

Many of the issues, such as adapting steering and brakes are very similar either way. When it comes to building mounts can it really make more sense to build suspension mounts over body mounts?

I know why I chose to stay with the original frame on my project, but my reasons won't be right for everyone else. On at least one of my planned future projects I'm sure the frame swap route is going to be the best choice.

The choice really is more complicated than many make it sound. That's my two cents...



1955 1st GMC Suburban | 1954 GMC 250 trailer puller project | 1954 GMC 250 Hydra-Matic | 1954 Chevy 3100 . 1947 Chevy COE | and more...
It's true. I really don't do anything but browse the Internet looking for trouble...

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