| |
Click on image for the lowdown. 
====
| | | Forums66 Topics128,018 Posts1,055,342 Members48,419 | | Most Online14,466
Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks  Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
| | THANKS!
For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down
with Ads!  Again, thanks!
| | 
#55511 01/24/2006 12:33 PM | Joined: Jul 2002 Posts: 358 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jul 2002 Posts: 358 | Guys, just HOW is the heat riser valve in the exhaust manifold disassembled?
Is everything simply 'pressed' in?
I have an urging need to split the exhaust manifold and that darn thing is in the way...
Please advise?
thanks
whizzerick | | |
#55512 01/24/2006 4:48 PM | Joined: May 2001 Posts: 7,438 Extreme Gabster | | Extreme Gabster Joined: May 2001 Posts: 7,438 | The flapper is tack welded to the shaft. Grind off the weld and the shaft slips out. | | |
#55513 01/24/2006 5:20 PM | Joined: Jul 2002 Posts: 358 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jul 2002 Posts: 358 | Thanks Cletis, I'm on it! | | |
#55514 01/25/2006 12:08 AM | Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 345 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 345 | Whizzerick,
I just had this done on my 235 by Kansas Kustoms. He leaves the entire heat riser intact-you don't have to mess with it at all. | | |
#55515 01/25/2006 1:00 AM | Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 5,708 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 5,708 | I'm with tlorber, I thought that one of the pluses with the Kansas Kustoms method was that you got to keep the heat riser.
Maybe whizzer is just going to take his apart and "rebuild" it!
Stuart | | |
#55516 01/25/2006 1:00 AM | Joined: Jul 2002 Posts: 358 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jul 2002 Posts: 358 | Yes I could leave it on but it would really help when cutting if it where off! | | |
#55517 01/25/2006 1:10 AM | Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 5,708 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 5,708 | Whizzer, HEY...quit goofing off and get back in the foundry..WE NEED NEAT STUFF...NOW!  Lost Wax Stu | | |
#55518 01/25/2006 5:29 PM | Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 1,513 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 1,513 | Whizzerick,
What are you using for the front outlet pc? Did you find a donor that you can grind to mate up to the manifold or are you going to cast an outlet? Either way I'd like to know as I intend to split mine as well. Thanks.
Curt B.
1952 1300 Canadian 1/2 ton restomod You Tube | | |
#55519 01/25/2006 8:19 PM | Joined: Jul 2002 Posts: 358 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jul 2002 Posts: 358 | What are you using for the front outlet pc? Did you find a donor that you can grind to mate up to the manifold or are you going to cast an outlet? Either way I'd like to know as I intend to split mine as well. Thanks. [/QB] I plan on MIG welding a length of thick-wall STEEL tubing and a fabricated flange. YES, it CAN be done! Check out this interesting post on the HAMB: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=11972 I figure that for 185$, I can buy quite a bit of tubing, MIG wire and steel plate? It's a learning experience...  | | |
#55520 01/25/2006 8:50 PM | Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 1,513 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 1,513 | Thanks for the link. I'll do the same and use my $185 for an offy intake.
1952 1300 Canadian 1/2 ton restomod You Tube | | |
#55521 01/25/2006 9:52 PM | Joined: Jul 2002 Posts: 358 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jul 2002 Posts: 358 | Originally posted by I.B. Hoggin:
Thanks for the link. I'll do the same and use my $185 for an offy intake. I talked to a nice lady at Patrick's and she said they will have a batch of 200 FENTON intakes in about a month. Price will be 199$. Just another option to consider... | | |
|
|
| |
