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#550619 06/28/2009 8:25 PM
Joined: Feb 2007
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New Guy
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I have a 1957 Chevy pick-up with a straight and solid frame except for one spot near where the rear drivers side spring mount and center cross member meet .For a truck that had a life up here in Western New York it has held up fairly well,but before I start gathering up parts for this truck are there any ways to save this frame work or is it best to get another better frame?

Joined: Dec 2003
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Shop Shark
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I am no expert on frames,but if it were mine I would attempt to fix it.I have fixed frames on older cars and trucks with good results over the years. It would involve welding in a patch,that would be long enough to go from good metal to good metal,or sometimes just bolting it in place.I have done it both ways.Natrurally,if you have axcess to a good solid frame that would be the best solution.

dale937 #550678 06/29/2009 12:15 AM
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 7,438
Extreme Gabster
Extreme Gabster
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 7,438
One problem with changing the frame on a '57 is the fact that the frame has a serial number that should match the title.


"It's just a phase. He'll grow out of it." Mama, 1964

1956 Chevy 1/2-ton 3100
1953 Chevy 6100 "The Yard dog"
1954 GMC Suburban Now with a new proud owner.
Cletis #550724 06/29/2009 2:39 AM
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I have a 52 3100 and I patched my frame with some 1/4 inch stock ,I built the patch 21 inchs long to get rid of the rusted area I left the top of the frame alone than I reinforced the top buy weilding a pc, of 2 inch +2inch angle iron to the top and made sure the frame was supported than I marked the area using the patch I made so it would be a perfect fit , cut out the bad area and beveled the edges to get a good weild than ground down to make it look good and done, got to take Your time , My frame was rusted out where the rear springs mount on the front spring bolt on both sides . After I was all done I removed the angle iron on top with My grinder and that was it , have fun!!!!!



Pete

Pete52 #550808 06/29/2009 5:46 AM
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'Bolter
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These frames were not heat treated so welding doesn't hurt them. Don't over reinforce it. Frames have to flex a little.

Joined: Aug 2008
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Shop Shark
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just patch it you will be fine i had to do my ole man's 40 in the same spot ,when i replaced the springs .

old dog #550872 06/29/2009 3:09 PM
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Mine was rusted beyond repair, so I replaced it. But,if you can weld yours,I would. Assuming you're not removing the body and/or bed I would very carefully make sure the frame is supported well and squared up before any welding. If your are dismantling it which to me is the best way to do this, all dimensions can be measured easily and the frame leveled much easier. Age and use can easily create a mis-aligned frame. Good luck with your project.


Drew
DrewP #552625 07/04/2009 6:03 PM
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New Guy
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Thanks guys for all the info, it was most helpful.So I will be pushing the old girl in the shop this week and will begin the frame repair process. I'll post the progress.

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Master Gabster
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I agree with everyone else. Repair it, that's more fun.


~Jim
Joined: Mar 2009
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Wrench Fetcher
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I would agree with the rest, but, I learned in my welding certification classes many years ago unless it is really necessary don't grind down the weld, that dome is where most of your strength is. think "arch" Roman aqueducts, arched entry ways etc.

Dune #552872 07/05/2009 6:51 PM
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Wrench Fetcher
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I really would like to see a pic of that spot! Can' t you post one?
Even your shop can do things wrong and if we' d see the spot, it would be easier to recommend the right way for welding.


'59 Apache
'67 Mustang

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