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Joined: Feb 2006
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B
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I'm trying to take the play out of my park brake assembly, and took everything out, cleaned it up, drilled a couple extra holes in pieces to get more adjustment... and now I can't figure out for the life of my how they got back together.
And there is no diagram of them in the factory shop manual, or the '62 Supplement.

Anyone one a pic they can direct me to?

-Brad


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October 6 ~ Commerce, Georgia
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http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/cbe/full.aspx?Page=86
Hope this helps. I don't hae my assembly manal here, but I can't believe there's nothing in there that can help you.

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M
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Hi Brad there is a small picture on page 6-11 of the 1960 Chevrolet Truck Shop Manual. If you can provide an email address I'll be glad to scan it and send to you. Regards, M.


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Where did you drill xtra holes if I may ask. When I put my brakes back together I did not have enough adjustment on the park brake. I t turned out that I failed to reassemble the primary lever correctly. I reassembled and have plenty of adj.

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Thanks for the link to LMC--- I thought about that too, but that one shows the later style of e-brake set-up, which is different than the '60-62 style. The early one has three two flat levers running side-to-side under the X-member, connected by a piece of flat stock running fore/aft.

I took a break and got away from it for a while, and then it came to me how they were supposed to go together!

-Brad


SOUTHERN FALL GABfest
October 6 ~ Commerce, Georgia
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Originally Posted by Ken 1960
Where did you drill xtra holes if I may ask. When I put my brakes back together I did not have enough adjustment on the park brake. I t turned out that I failed to reassemble the primary lever correctly. I reassembled and have plenty of adj.

There are a couple of "supplemental adjustment holes" on the fore/aft connecting bar. I added another hole to each end. And then I also added another hole to each of the sliding cross bars. (For anyone in the future, these pieces are all hardened, and you'll smoke a couple of good drill bits!)

It's better, but it's still not right.

When I bought the truck, the cables had an owner-modified clamp on them that took out some excess length. I replaced them with a set of cables from my local parts store. The more I tinker with it, the more I'm convinced the cables themselves aren't right.

There are two slots in the X-frame that the slider bars are supposed to travel in. Because of the length of the cables, I've noticed that the bars are almost all the way forward in their slots. If the cables were about 4 inches shorter, the problem wouldn't exist.

Furthermore, the "return" on the brake handle is really soft. It doesn't release by itself, it has to be pushed in when I release it. There are springs coiled around the brake cable inside the drum--they go from the end of the cable where it passes into the drum, to the park-brake arm. On other vehicles, I've really had to muscle that spring to get the cable off the arm. On these, the springs seem short, and don't require hardly any compression to pull the cable off the arm. I believe that spring is also responsible for putting pressure on the cable so that when you release the handle up in the cab, the cable automatically retracts.

I guess I'll try another set of cables from LMC or someone and see if A) they're shorter and B) the spring at the brake-drum end is longer.

-Brad


SOUTHERN FALL GABfest
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Brad54,

I had/have the same experience after buying a set of cables from one of the suppliers. Your description of the lever arms and flat stock is also what I have and the play in the cable does not allow for proper tensioning. Is the cable supposed to run through the frame's structural member or attach to it?
I whould be happy to hear if you find out more info since my brake is too loose to use in its current state.
HB


~ HB
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1962 Chevrolet C10
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