The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Clutch Freeplay?

Hi guys, on my '46 2 1/2 ton I replaced the cluth however I can't get the desired 1" freeplay, I adjust the adjustment rod all the way both ways and no go. Does the spring have a lot to do with putting the right amount of tension on the pedal one way so freeplay can be adjusted. I'm kind of confused because I can't get the pressure plate to release to put the old boot into gear. Any help would be appreciated.

thanks, Scott :confused:

Scott,

Welcome back. I remember long and short throwout bearings, but maybe I'm thinking F**d. The spring tries to shove the pedal up, which ideally pulls the throwout bearing away from the pressure plate and give you the clearance, or free play you need so the bearing isn't constantly turning with the p/plate.

Sometimes, this concept can be confusing. I think this was mentioned last time you visited. To make things more clear, It can help to adjust the clutch with the gravel shield removed...your down there on your back fussing with the linkage and you can see the fork and throwout bearing react to your adjustments.

If everything is as it should be, you should be able to adjust real tight or adjust real loose.

The return spring has to be strong enough to try and shove that pedal up through the cab floor.


Stuart

If you have the bellhousing cover off and can see the throwout bearing it should be about 1/4" back fron the clutch fingers and not more when the pedal bumper is against the floorboard. The freeplay does have to push against the spring. The pedal should move 3/4" away from the floorboard stop when the throwout bearing touches the fingers. If it won't release the bearing is too far from the fingers to apply sufficient release pressure. Good luck.

Curt B.

Just to confirm the spring is actually suposed to be where it is. It connects to an "L" shaped bracket then to the clutch fork which is connected to the clutch pedal via adjustment rod. the bracket is mounted on the front drivers side of the bell housing. The spring appears as though it is sprung two or three rings, not to much spring.

The L bracket is welded to the inside of the frame rail and holds one end of the spring. The other end should be around the adjustment rod. If it doesn't hold the pedal stop bumper up against the toeboard it's tired. You can use a utility spring as long as it holds up the pedal. The whole point is so the throwout bearing isn't touching the clutch fingers while engaged.
Here's a pic of what you should be seeing.

http://chevy.tocmp.com/1947truckshop/47ctsm0671.htm

Curt B.

Hey thanks for the advice but I got to be honest what I have looks nothing like the picture you have or the one I have in my manual. I think the spring definately needs replacing but this linkage as simple as it is has me boggled??? it might not matter but the "L" shaped bracket is mounted on the front of my bell housing, I was under the truck today and adjusted all one way and the throw out bearing just touches the fingers on the pressure plate when the pedal is on the floor, like five inches of free play. The other end of the spectrum for adjustment doesn't work either, "G" at Gary Auto thinks I'm on crack. Does wear on the clutch fork and ball have a major effect?

Scott,

Is there any chance that things were modified on your clutch linkage. Does anything look like it was put on farm style?

Even with the "confusion factor" you should have figured it out by now. You don't have a digital camera laying around do you?

Stuart

Something else is wrong. Does the fork swivel around smoothly on the ball stud? Is the fork held on the ball with the clip intact? Are the fingers of the fork sitting in the groove of the throwout bearing and not worn flat? Without the linkage attached does the fork have enough travel to disengage without hitting the bellhousing? If the above check out then maybe your adjustment rod is mangled.

Curt B.

Scott,

Curt has some great points, why don't you two get together over a glass of fine California wine and compare notes...he might live two houses down!


Stuart

Last night guys I drove my truck out of the shop!!! Hasn't moved in 20 odd years, it was very gratifying. I tried bleeding the brakes as well and found all the cylinders need rebuilding. But about the clutch, there is still only a small amount of room for adjustment and it should be more; the free play is still too much. I changed the clutch and did confirm the fork is in the groove of the release bearing and the spring clip is in the fork as well I had it out to check for wear when I changed the clutch. So the only other thing might be to meet with fellow stove bolter over a Timmy's (coffee); what do you say Curt?

Scott

If your free play is still too much, you may have the same problem I had with my '40 Canadian GMC. There was so much wear at the bottom of the pedal arm where it connects to the linkage that I couldn't get all the slack out. I had too much free play. With the gravel pan removed I popped the clutch arm off the ballstud. Then I loosened the ballstud and put a flat washer underneath it. This moved the position of the pivot point forward about 1/8". That took up all the extra slack in the clutch. It works great now.
Steve

Hey Steve, the washer sounds like an excellent idea, 1/8" was enough the take up all that freeplay? the pedal arm? are you refering to the hook on the bottom of the pedal that connects to the adjustment rod?

Scott

Scott, yes the hook at the bottom of the pedal arm was very worn on mine, thus the excessive free play. That one washer took up almost all the free play. One note, I couldn't completly remove the ball stud cause it would hit the clutch assembly. So I took the flat washer and cut out a section so the washer lso it ooked kind of "U" shaped. Then I put some grease on the washer so it would stick in place, then slipped it onto the loosened stud threads, then tightened down the stud. It has worked well for me.
Steve