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#539649 05/21/2009 2:25 AM
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 45
M
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
M Offline
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 45
I see in catalogs that there is a pad kit available to put between the bed mounts and the frame. When I (and Brian) removed the box from the 60' C-10 I don't recall anything being there and it sure looked like the box has never been off before.
Now, I'm putting a 60 box onto a 63 (I've already moved the mounts) but would like to know if I'll need these pads. If so what is the thickness of them as I'm sure I could make my own.

Doug

Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 321
B
'Bolter
'Bolter
B Offline
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 321
I have pulled a few beds off and have never seen mounting pads either. I don't think they are a necessity, but I imagine it would go towards making the truck rattle a little less. I don't think those pads are all that thick, just make sure they are all uniform and you should be fine.


1963 Chevy C20 Longbed Stepside
1978 Chevy K30 Custom Deluxe
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 12,029
F
Cruising in the Passing Lane
Cruising in the Passing Lane
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Posts: 12,029
some older trucks used blocks of wood - the purpose is to prevent rubbing of metal against metal - "anti-squeak" - any thin rubber will do - old truck tube pieces

Bill


Moved over to the Passing Lane

"When we tug a single thing in nature, we find it attached to the rest of the world" ~ John Muir
"When we tug a single thing on an old truck, we find it falls off" ~ me
Some TF series details & TF heater pics
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 81
M
Wrench Fetcher
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M Offline
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 81
I just re-did the bed on my 1960 stepside a couple of months ago. There were no pads originally but I ordered and installed them. I think I ordered them from Jimmy Carter
My new rear shocks are actually too stiff for such a light body,but now with the pads, new boards, and new metal srips it
sounds like a new truck.
meansam

Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 486
J
'Bolter
'Bolter
J Offline
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 486
I ordered pads for my bed and they were about 1/4" thick. It created a bit of a problem because the bed bolts in my new stainless steel bolt kit were now too short. They would just barely touch the nuts. I had to buy new bolts at Fastenal. Just one more think to check out.


'64 swb stepside (gone)
'57 1 ton
'53 phone truck
'59 swb
'46 1 1/2 ton
'68 swb gmc
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 45
M
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
M Offline
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 45
1/4" eh ?? That was my concern as I don't want it sitting too high. I do have some3mm thick rubber that is tough as hell so hopefully I can get away with that being the right height otherwise I do have tons of old HD conveyor belt that would suffice.
Thanks to all the replies and I'll keep everyone posted with the results.
Doug

Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 1,262
H
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
H Offline
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 1,262
Here is a trick I learned from an old body shop friend of mine. Cut up a 2 liter pop bottle and use the plastic for anti-rattle material. And it is very easy to cut with kitchen shears.

Sounds hokey as hell, I know, but it works great!

The other problem with rubber is will trap moisture and accelerate rust. Plastic isn't as apt to do that. Plus you likely have some plastic 2 liter bottles or milk cartons laying around anyhow.



In the Stovebolt Gallery ~~ "The Orange Crate" 1965 C10 SWB Step Side Build Thread

Inspired to be different. Different in a way of my own, not in a way that others strive.
Joined: Nov 2008
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D
Shop Shark
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i believe you can get some neoprean washers from your local hardward store "homedepot or lowes" ect that you should be able to get in different thickness and neoprean lasts forever


1937 1/2 ton
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 45
M
Wrench Fetcher
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Posts: 45
I like the idea of using an old plastic bottle...perhaps a bleach bottle etc as it should have enough material to make the 12 I need and cover the entire mount.

Doug

Last edited by mad max; 05/23/2009 2:01 AM.
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 12,029
F
Cruising in the Passing Lane
Cruising in the Passing Lane
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Posts: 12,029
listen to Daniel - the plastic used in consumer containers like pop, water or bleach bottles deteriorates over time from the ozone in the air, doesn't have to be exposed to ultraviolet .... and it collects condensation at least as much as neoprene .... if GM had used that crap plastic you wouldn't find any trace of it now wink

Bill


Moved over to the Passing Lane

"When we tug a single thing in nature, we find it attached to the rest of the world" ~ John Muir
"When we tug a single thing on an old truck, we find it falls off" ~ me
Some TF series details & TF heater pics
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 1,262
H
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
H Offline
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 1,262
All plastics aren't the same. If you use the material from plastic drink bottles, recycling code 1, it will work fine for this application. These are PETE plastics and take 450 years to decompose.



In the Stovebolt Gallery ~~ "The Orange Crate" 1965 C10 SWB Step Side Build Thread

Inspired to be different. Different in a way of my own, not in a way that others strive.
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 4
R
New Guy
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Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 4
All the ideas sound good. Well here is one more. If you can find a heavy duty truck inner tube, it will work great. The inner tube is about 1/8" thick and should last a long time. If rust is a issue, then I would paint the metal contact points with Por 15 Rust Preventive paint before installing any pad. I made my own pads, they are 2 3/4" long X 1 1/2" wide.


Moderated by  Hambone, Woogeroo 

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