The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop torque tube bell temp

Ok folks I've finished putting in the 3.55 ring and pinion in the 41 and have now done about 80 miles. Today had a 20 mile run along suburban roads. I filled the bell with about 300mls of oil when I connected everything up. When I checked the temp of the bell after the run, its quite hot, hotter than the trans case and diff cover. Is this to be expected? Am I getting paranoid? The new rear end certainly makes a difference though. The 216 just loves it.

Thanks guys

Bob

Just bumping this up to the top fellas.

Mozzie,

I read this post earlier and was interested. When you did your ring and pinion, did you install a new torque tube bushing (oakie bushing). Both rear end and transmission are full I would assume.

Stuart

The torque tube should be about the same temp as the tranny. You either have a lube problem, rear tranny bearing or u-joint problem.

Stuart, yep all new bearings and bushings on the rear end and axle. I also rebuilt the gearbox. The okie was replaced about six months ago. The trans and rear end oil levels are ok. Actually the first thing I checked was the level in the diff in case I may have snicked the oil seal in the okie when the driveshaft was going back in.

I'm able to get a good grip on the bell. Its not that hot that I have to release my grip but as I said it is a fair bit hotter than the gearbox case. This all started as a simple replacement of the uni-joint yokes after the wee bolts came adrift and gradually got more involved the further I checked things out.

Cheers mate

Bob

Thanks Fred,

Time to slide back under the truck again. Its been like a second home lately.

All the best

Bob

I would like to take a poll and have everyone running a torque tube rear end check the temp just behind the large part of the U joint bell. It has been my experience that this bushing area runs much hotter than the trans.

It would be interesting to get some feedback Dave.I thought long and hard before opting for the 3.55 diff and keeping the torque tube instead of going the open driveline route. I'd like to think that it would be reliable over the long term.

Cheers

Bob

Wouldn't it seem natural for the bushing area to run hotter than an area immersed in a fog of lubricant and rotating on ball bearings..the transmission.

What is the exact process that lubricates the U-joint and bushing area. I replaced a torque tube U-joint many moons ago, and I don't remember much of the details. I DO remember very cramped working quarters and what a unpleasant job it was, especially when little bolts are sheared off.


Stuart

In my opinion it will be reliable. The only two weak points are the front pinion bearing that seems to have a short life, and the front torque tube/drive shaft bushings that are lubricated by the transmission fluid. The u-joint bell seems to always leak a little bit and will cause the transmission fluid level to go down and starve the bushing and cause wear or failure.

Stuart,

The u-joint receives its lube from the trans. After a rebuild you fill the torque tube ball with about a cup of trans oil to give initial lube.

My concern I suppose is that as this area is fairly well lubed I wasn't expecting it to run much hotter than the trans case.

As Dave suggested, it would be good to get some feedback from other guys running the torque tube drive.

Cheers mate
Bob

Thanks again Dave. I intend keeping a close eye on it and make it part of my maintenance schedule. Maybe every couple of thousand miles I'll pull the bell back and check that everything is ok and certainly before any decent road trip.

Bob

That,s a good idea Mozzie. If there is enough friction to cause it to heat up you will know about it pretty soon. I doubt if you have any problem.

Thanks George. Any excuse to get the spanners out.

Bob

Mozzie,

Does the transmission have a SECOND little fill hole to a reservoir that is dedicated to U-joint/bushing lubrication. I saw a picture in my assembly manual of what I thought was this plug, and there was an earlier mention on this forum of something like that.

If this is true with the standard transmissions, I wonder how it works with the Hydramatics?

Stuart

On my 3/4 ton the front u-joint shares oil with the tranny. And I have crawled under and checked after driving, and couldn't tell any difference in the temp.

Yes Stuart there is a small plug on top of the mainshaft bearing retainer casting that allows you to put in a cup or so of oil for the initial lube for the u-joint. I don't know anything about the hydramatics though. Perhaps one of the other guys could chime in.

Thats got me thinking Fred. I don't know much about the 3/4 driveline other than the front half is enclosed and the rear is open. With the front u-joint is the rear yoke spined to move on the driveshaft the same as on the 1/2 ton trucks? I'm just wondering if the 1/2 tons with a fully enclosed driveshaft create more heat because the shaft is supported on a bushing but also because the rear splined yoke is continually sliding back and forth on the driveshaft? Or the other way round really the driveshaft is sliding back and forth on the rear yoke. I'd be interested in your comments.

Thanks

Bob

Anyone else got any comments on this before we put it to bed?

Thanks

Bob

This may not belong here, but since we are talking about torque tubes, here goes. I have a 57 Buick, with a Dynaflo transmission, and a torque tube. I'm not certain, but I believe at that time you could still get straight transmissions in Buicks. They would not be very common, but I think they were around. I would like to dump the Dynaflo, put in a geared transmission, and get rid of the torque tube at the same time. My question: If I am able to find a transmission that I can bolt in, is it possible to change to an open drive shaft? Since the torque tube seems to be about the only thing that holds everything together, how do I hold the rear end in place. This probably seems like a dumb question, but any help would be appreciated. Allen

Allen, If the Buick set up is the same as the Chev my understanding is that you would need to change the rear end as well. Having just rebuilt my rear end, there is no way that it can be converted to accept an open driveshaft. It would be a question of finding another rear of the right size ( backing plate to backing plate ). I'm sure that some of the other guys will chime in.

Cheers

Bob