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#530591 04/21/2009 2:47 AM
Joined: Apr 2005
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Wrench Fetcher
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I am putting a 1959 235 out of a car in a 52 AD truck and I know that the long shaft 59 water pump won't clear the radiator. I have seen in Patrick's catalog they have a short shaft water pump that is made to fit the 55-62 235s but that thing is $139.95 and times are tight right now !! and if it wears out I can't go to the local parts house and get another one . I have also seen a adapter plate on Ebay for $40.00. My queston is has anybody ever tryed to made one of these adapters? If so could you give me some advice on how to make one. I know I am a cheep scape but like I said money is tight right now!!
THANKS
SlickT

Last edited by Slickt; 04/21/2009 2:49 AM.
Slickt #530597 04/21/2009 3:00 AM
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'Bolter
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If you do a search you will find someone who made one.


1951 GMC 1 Ton Flatbed -- It is finally on the road and what a great time I have driving it!
1951 1 Ton Completed


My Chevy Master 4 Door is on the Road!
Slickt #530601 04/21/2009 3:09 AM
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the adaptor plate picks the water pump up into the position it would have been in an earlier truck w/ a 216 motor. i am using one on a 261 build that i am putting in a 46 1/2 ton. i believe the pump you are looking for is a 53-54 w/a 3/8 pulley #3836084. this pump is available in a modern build through napa and rock auto. double check the pump # as i dont have my books w/ me right now.

making a short shaft pump requires pushing the shaft throught he pump body and grinding off the hardened shaft to the correct length. try searching using the pump # abaove or w/ key words such as shortened pump or water pump clearance, short shaft water pump.

big ed


"it's only old if you can't find a use for it; otherwise it's cool and i'll use it."
bigedpa #530705 04/21/2009 1:44 PM
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I have the short shaft water pump on my '48 Chevy truck (1960 -235 engine).
I bought it from Patricks - It's been on the truck for 10 yrs, and 39,000 miles with no problems.

wbrowne #530712 04/21/2009 2:04 PM
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The adapter plate wouldn"t be that hard to make if you could find the right thickness metal. You could transfer all of the hole location by useing gaskets and the old 216 water pump. A plasma cutter would be nice to make all of the outside cuts and the two holes for the water flow.
If you decide touse the old 216 pump you will need the balancer as well so the fan and pump won't turn to fast.

ttodd #530749 04/21/2009 4:32 PM
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Originally Posted by ttodd
The adapter plate wouldn"t be that hard to make if you could find the right thickness metal.

That would be 1/8" which is the same as the plate that is removed from the back of the 216 pump and replaced by the adapter plate.


1952 1300 Canadian 1/2 ton restomod
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Slickt #530765 04/21/2009 5:12 PM
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i made mine. the back plate off of the old water pump
can be used as a template then a water pump gasket for the new engine will make the bottom template. you will have to drill
and tap 2 holes in the block. its simple just make sure to seal it up good.

philip t #530909 04/22/2009 2:11 AM
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Thanks everybody !!!!

Slickt #531165 04/22/2009 8:57 PM
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Patricks sells the plate and it si not expensive. My understanding is the long shaft radiator is there for a reason and over heating can occue when water pumps w/ short and long shaft are swapped out. this will also affect what fan blade you can use as the center hole changes diameter for which pump you use


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relocation plate is also available on ebay from pre68dave,i bought one and it is a very nice piece. and he is a bolt member


"it's only old if you can't find a use for it; otherwise it's cool and i'll use it."
bigedpa #531261 04/23/2009 2:23 AM
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Bubba - Curmudgeon
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If you buy the plate, be sure to ask for installation instructions to be sent with the plate. If they do not have installation instructions, buy the plate from Jim Carter (and ask for the instructions).


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Thanks for all the advice !!!! I really appreciate it!!
THANKS SlickT

bigedpa #532206 04/26/2009 2:57 AM
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I did this years ago with a 59235 into a 51 chevy pu/ I as I recall, the trick was to remove the fan support which is pressed onto the pump shaft. Then the shaft had to be cut a hack saw would not touch the diecast metal so I had to use a grinder to perforate the diecast surface, then hacksaw did the trick. I dressed the end with a file pressed the fan support back on to the shortened shaft and put it together, the dimension for the support was determined by the flat plane of the fanbelt with the generator and the crankpulley

pgossett #532256 04/26/2009 5:27 AM
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Extreme Gabster
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I have done them the way pgosset explains however, the earlier pulley is too small for that pump. It will turn too fast. Find a pulley near the diameter of the later pulley. One from a 292 Ford works if you can find it.

By the way, a cut-off wheel in a die grinder makes short work of cutting the shaft.


"It's just a phase. He'll grow out of it." Mama, 1964

1956 Chevy 1/2-ton 3100
1953 Chevy 6100 "The Yard dog"
1954 GMC Suburban Now with a new proud owner.

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