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Fixing the old truck

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#494701 01/18/2009 2:16 PM
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Wrench Fetcher
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Looks like your moving along nicely. Would love to see more pics as the project comes along.

Darin

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That brings me back.
Keeper going!

Joined: Nov 2008
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After building my cab & bed dolly this past weekend I got all of the rusty bolts cut off of the bed rails and removed them. I think I`m going to replace the bed front panel since it`s bent and also the rear main bed rail.

http://www.picturehosting.com/images/AUSTIN64/img1609.jpg
http://www.picturehosting.com/images/AUSTIN64/img1608.jpg
http://www.picturehosting.com/images/AUSTIN64/img1605.jpg

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Well, today I got my bed torn totally apart.
The wheel tubs are pretty banged up so I may replace them.

http://www.picturehosting.com/images/AUSTIN64/img1612.jpg

The bedside are in good shape and ready for media blasting.

http://www.picturehosting.com/images/AUSTIN64/img1611.jpg

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looking good I'm trying to figure out what I want to do with my 65 custom fleet so its nice to see threads like this one.

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My build has sort of slowed down to a crawl because I am trying to get another one of my projects at least where I can use it.

http://www.classcrebuild.com/

But, I have plenty of time on the truck because I want to take my time and do it right the first time.

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i am very interested on how you will repair the upper windshield rust... i am facing the same repair on my 62, my roofcap is also off. maybe we can trade ideas...good luck, Mark http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/applebag/Newpics029.jpg

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Yea, Mark yours looks about like mine.
I have a few spots left that go all the way to good metal on the cab portion and when I set the cap back on I can see how much I need to cut small strips to fill in the bad spots. I`m going to weld in as much good sheet metal as I can and then use polyester glazing putty on the rest. The good part is the drip rail on these cabs is pretty deep, so if you use a good self leveling seam sealer, like Eastwood for example sells you can cover up some of the rough welds on the very edges. The most difficult part on my truck, as you can see in the third picture is forming that little flange that the front overhang on the roof has but in years past sheet metal has been beaten into shape using no more than a hammer and an anvil or vise. Plus, I get to try out my new Martin hammer and dolly set.
Mike

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out of curiosity what is the easiest way to remove the cap?

If its not to big of a pain I'll do it to give the inside a good checkup for rust issues you cant see and coat em with chassis saver.

Last edited by Sizzlersonthebrain; 03/18/2009 12:06 AM.
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i drilled the spotwelds with a spotweld cutter..there is like at least a hundred big_eeklike Mike i will be hammering out patch panels, and building the pinchweld on the upper doorframe that you can see in my pic,then sandblast and zero rust. i look forward to the learning experience cool

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There wasn`t a whole lot of my roof that was solid metal, once I got all of the bondo out of the drip rail. So I just cut loose the parts that were still attached.


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