The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Driveline Brake pedal too long

I have a 55 1st series and it is a fine truck except the brake pedal is too long and is difficult to get my foot on it in an emergency. I am 6' 4" and with long legs and the seat don't go back far enough. I turn my leg side ways to stomp on the brake. The brake pedal sticks out about an inch or two further than the clutch pedal which is normal. I don't see any adjustment for it. I was thinking ( I do that once in a while) about cutting out a 2 section and welding it back together. any thoughts or comment? Thanks

steve

Hi Steve, my opinion is that if a mod needs to be done for safty then do it and who cares what others think .
I'm only 5' 11" and due to permant injury the clutch pedal is my problem. Bench seat bottom is to low and does'nt go back enouph for leg room I need. I sit on about 3"-4" of bath towels rite now for extra hight and it helps alot although a couple times in city stop and go I've had to hold my left leg at the knee to help get it and keep it on the pedal...driving and shifting with no hand on the wheel, I'm luckey the stearing is pefect. I want to keep the truck as stock as possible but have to bite the bulet and put bucket seats in and with that I can see still in a year or so haveing to change to an outo trans.

Lets see some truck pics, daily drives rule

I have a general question about the heigth or size of the brake and clutch pedals. My pedals are much different. I don't understand why they are different Hieghts, makes no sense to me. Does anybody know why this situation exists?

all these ol trucks have 1-2" difference between the pedals - you'd hafta ask the Generals engineers about why, but I suspect it has to do with the amount of throw required for each under ALL conditions, from new and properly adjusted to worn or poorly maintained .... I'd be careful about chopping length off the brake pedal, leverage is part of the equation, and also reducing the length = reducing the travel of the MC piston ....

Bill

I agree about the throw of the pedals, however I am also 6'4" and needed a solution. I did shorten the break pedal appx 2", but I also installed a dual chambered brake cylinder. (I think that is what they are called.) With the stock brake system, if you loose fluid for some reason, you will need a lot of travel in the pedal, and possibly loose all 4 breaks. With the dual, if you loose fluid, you would loose front or rear, not both.

I wacked some out of mine. It is much more comfortable & looks a lot better.

I'm 6'3" and I think i'll have to go the shortening route too!
The good thing is the dual circuit booster requires less travel.(So safety shouldn't be an issue)
Did you guys who shortened yours simply cut the arm at the pad and re-weld the pad after shortening?

Thanks guys for the good advise and information, The dual chambered MC sound like a good Idea.RichardR what cylinder did you use? How did you route the second brake line? I have had 4 different AD trucks but this brake pedal sticks out the most.And tedy I will get some pics.

steve

Hi Steve,
I had the replacement done by a shop so I don't know what cylinder was used. The replacement is in the same location as the original. The front brake line goes forward from the cylinder, the rear line goes toward the passinger side and then back to the rear. It was suggested to me to cut a hole in the floor to allow access to the MC, but i didn't like that. So I check the fluid from below the truck. I remove the cover and stick a finger into the reservoir to check the level. (The placement of the MC will not allow a visual check.) To add fluid, if necessary, use a plastic bottle with a hooked tube on the end; like the hooked plastic tube the dentist uses to draw saliva from your mouth while he/she works in your mouth. You will know when you have added enough because it will overflow. Let me know if this makes sense and is helpful. RichardR

Hi Jockbolter,
It was shortened as you described. I cut the arm at the pad and re-welded. RichardR

This thread should probably have been posted in The Hi-po section. OOPS!

Thanks Richard, I'll wait 'till I get the system fully bled first. I don't want to cut too much off!

I find it odd that there's so much issue with the brake pedals. I'm 6'4", 280# (size 14 boots), never had a bit of trouble with the pedals in and AD or TF truck.

I guess you have me beat in flexibility, but I've got you beat in boot size (size 15).

Well they probably did that in the day so the woman can go fetch groceries while us men were fixing the other car she smashed to bits. Cut er off 2 inches and zap er back on is my two cents

I, too am 6'4" and have no trouble reaching the brake pedal in my '54 GMC. I just move my knee out past the steering wheel and all's well.

How do you remove the brake pedal on a 57 Chevy truck? I have the nut off but it looks like it is pressed ON .
Thanks for the help! Jon

The end of the pedal is tapered, just like a tie rod or balljoint stud. A good solid rap on the side of the lever should make it come free. Use a brass hammer to prevent damage.

Yeah,I shortened up the brake pedal on my 55 2nd after adding disc brakes up front and a power dual master cylinder.That was about 5 years ago and no problems with it. And yeah filling the cyl from under the truck is a PITA,but that squeeze bottle with the curved snout helps a lot.Course if everything is OK with the brake system you hardly ever have to fill it.

Hi Longbox,
I love living in a big city! I can't find a brass hammer to save my life! Not even the local Sears has them! I will get that pedal off.. Jon

It might be easier to have your legs shortened....

Pedal is off. Used a regular hammer as well as a rubber head hammer. Thank you! Jon

i installed a remote fill when i installed dual MC. ron