The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Idles then it shuts off when it gets warm

The ol' girl was running great then, it started shutting itself off after it warms up, it'll start up but won't idle/run. I've checked all the usual problem areas. Carb, timing, wires to include spark plug. It'll crank back up once it cools down. Any help anyone could give would be great!
Thanks
Patrick

How about the float in the carburator. maybe the float is sticking and the motor shuts off after the carb. runs dry. ( maybe a minute or two ) Try and tapping the carb lightly with a small hammer. the vibration may lossen the valve from the ceat in the carb there by letting the float droping and allowing more fuel into the carb. Qustion ?? will it keep running after it is started for the second time ???

Hmm. Good idea, I will try it. Nah it will automatically shut down, even with me tapping on the throttle.

Sounds like an ignition problem.Condenser? points? Coil?I'm betting on the coil,had it happen to me,won't run when warm.Tom

What about the Heat Control Valve and Thermostatic Spring? If it's stuck open, it can casue an overheating condition that could fool you.

We've had some similar problems with some of our vehicles after they switched to E10 blended fuel. The problem occurs when the metal fuel lines heat up past the E10 separation point of 128 degrees F. This is most likely to happen when you shut the engine off, restart and as soon as the carb fuel chamber empties the engine dies. The heat buildup where the metal fuel line crosses over the front of the valve cover and exhaust manifold causes the separation. This "vapor lock" appearing phenomena shows up as "0" fuel pressure on the pressure gauge directly in front of the carbs. Applying a wet rag just before the fuel bowls empty will immediately restore fuel pressure. Adding an electric pump has no effect on correcting this annoying condition.

The key to overcoming this problem is making sure your fuel line between the thermostat housing and valve cover is insulated to avoid heat-soak. A wet rag applied to the line will instantly correct the problem or in my case, popping the hood to let the hot air escape works every time.

I can't say this is YOUR exact problem but if your ignition system is up to par, you might try the "wet rag" right before the engine stalls out.

Dave

I installed one Langdon's Mini Six about 40 miles ago with an Accel coil for ford 300. I'm going to let it run until he warms up and shuts itself down then I'm going to take the top part of the carb and check the bowl and see if it is dry. Also i will check the coil. Thank you all for your input three brains are always better than one

Hi Patrick,
I had the same problem. Perhaps the solutions mentioned will work for you, but if not, check for debris from the gas tank that has gotten into the fuel line. The problem I had was that my truck would start and run, but as it warmed up I could not maintain RPM. What was happening was that the debris was accumulating at the filter, and the time necessary for the accumulation to inhibit the flow of fuel was the same as the time necessary to warm the engine. So in the end, the warming engine disguised the real problem. RichardR

Either the ignition system or carburetor/fuel system could be at fault. After it does its thing, squirt some fuel into the carburetor and see if if snorts or attemps to start. If it does then it's a fuel problem. If it makes no pop or snorts, it's a ignition glitch.

Faulty solid state ignitions are known to break down and quit when warmed up.

Stuart

I think you found the problem, if it was running fine 40 miles ago before you install langdon's deal, it may well be in it..

I had a mallary electronic on my 52.........ran great for many yrs, then it started to quit at various speeds.. it would always start back up............sometimes it would go for a long time before the stopping would occur... always idled fine and would start right back up

after checking ever thing and even the module checked ok but it wasnt... I had to replace

this

Joker,
When you ran your ignition did you use a ballast? In my instruction from Mr. Langdon he did not mention a ballast but as i was researching the mallory ign module everything kept coming up with a ballast also. Also looking at the Mallory 605 it has three wires coming out of the module, what are these for? Thanks for any help you can give.
Patrick

Turns out it was my iginition switch. Thanks for everyones help