The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop flushing a 235

I'm using a special tool i bought at a Swap Meet that bolts in place of the water pump for a 55-62 235 and has a garden hose fitting on in to flush out the engine. The problem is that i can't seem to get water to come out of the drain at the back driver's side of the block due to some blockage. The engine has less than 500 miles since rebuild and i just acquired it so i really don't want to use harsh chemicals in fear of ruining the seals. Any suggestions?

Mike

Mike,

Isn't the little hole you speak of just a simple petcock. They have VERY small holes even when opened all the way up (screwed in?). It probably wouldn't hurt to take the whole fitting out and wiggle a coat hanger around in it as you did your flushing.

Stuart

i did and still nothing

Adapt the garden hose to the drain petcock hole, and flush from that point. It's a 1/4" pipe thread.
Jerry

That passage goes way up in the block towards the passengers side....you need to keep at it until you get the coathanger (or something a little heavier) to go up inside the block about 12 inches. Once you break the crud loose in this passage, you'll be amazed at all the solid stuff that has collected up in the back of the water jacket.

Chemicals aren't really going to help you much....just keep at the passage. I pulled the freeze plug right above the petcock and used a hose nozzle to flush out the stuff. Might not work if your manifolds are on.

You might consider using distilled water when you recharge the colling system. I refer a 25/75 mix....25% antifreeze....and the distilled water will coast you less than $2.00. Pretty cheap insurance against overheating.

Dave

I totally dismantled my 235 and I am convinced that nothing would have taken the place of wire and elbow grease!

Yeah, you've got to get that rear block drain going. On my GMC I had a similar problem. I pulled the entire petcock off and was still not getting but a seeping of water. I just used a length of coat hanger and continued feeding water into the radiator while I probed with it. After a while a bit a big glob of nasty looking stuff came out, followed by a lot of rusty looking water. I continued reaming and flushing until I got a clear water stream. All this was on an engine that hadn't been run in roughly ten years. After that I put a block flush in it, drove it around the block to get it up to temp then let it cool. When I dumped the radiator and block I again got more debris out of the rear block drain. It took a few times to get it really clean. Truck runs cool now.

David Bush

You say, "The engine has less than 500 miles since rebuild." The very first step after the engine is tore down for a rebuild should be a soak in a chemical hot tank which not only degreases the block but will rid the oil and water passages of all the rust and crud. Also the rebuilder should have rodded out all of these passages. This rebuilder sounds like he skipped this step. If this was done only 500 miles ago I'd go back to the rebuilder and ask why this was not done and what he is going to do about it.

Denny Graham
Sandwich, IL

the only problem with that is that the engine was rebuilt over 12 years ago.

Thanks for all the suggestions, I'll try them all.

I tried running wire and cable with a drill through the petcock pork with no success. What are the dangers and benefits of radiator flush. What does it do to head gaskets, hoses, etc?

I meant petcock port not pork(must be hungry, lol)