The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Hurst shifter on NP 89mm trans

I finished rebuilding the trans, and bought a Hurst shifter on ebay to fit a Mopar A833. Finding the correct shifter for the GM trans is almost impossible. Anyway, the shifter seems to be in good shape and the installation kit is complete, but naturally the mounting bracket is for the Mopar tailshaft, not the GM. Does anyone out there have a good photo of a shifter connected to this trans which could give me some guidance. I fully expect that this project will entail the torches and welder, but I'd like to skip the part about making stupid mistakes. Thanks in advance.

This site has some photos. I think the linkage is wrong but he explains that in the text.

http://www.chuckthetruck.com/page12.html

Here's another one.

http://www.classicjunkyard.com/new_process_a833.htm

Russell, I have that same trans, and was wondering how bad it was to rebuild? Mine seems to bench shift ok, but all the fluid ran out of it when I sat it on the floor. Seals must be bad, so I figure I should open it up and check it out.

olememphis51,

Don't quote me on this, but I think the transmission needs a tail shaft inserted in it to seal the extension housing. The front has no seal and if the tranny is tipped forward, gear lube will pour out there as well.

Stuart

atomarc, hey thanks for the reply. So what your saying is, that you think that there are no seals to go bad? I still should prob. have someone go through it, huh? Thanks.

Russell, I could take some pics of mine if you need them, but the pics above are pretty good.

Russell, I used a OEM shifter out of a Dodge Van in my 63 C20. I had to space the shifter off the bracket by about 2 inches so the rods would clear the transmission. With the spacer the shifter is just inside the left side of the hump. I haven't driven it that much but there doesn't seem to be any problems. It's pretty close to jfnar's second link.

olememphis, There is a trick to rebuilding the 833. There was a post not long ago here that said there is an assembly that is spring loaded and should be kept together. Sorry don't remember the subject.

Larry

Russell, See how high up above the trans those factory shifters are? I really didn't want that so when I made my mounting plate I located the shifter pivot pin (where the OEM one has a grease fitting) just about where the speedo drive is. I run a tach in my car & don't use a speedo. This puts the whole affair including where the shift lever bolts on below my natural floorline and the shift rods run about level to the ground. I used a 1/2" plate scrap & used countersunk allens to attach it to the trans. Then I just flat mounted the shifter into tapped holes in the plate. AND, grind a slot for the reverse pin clearance. Just my way, but when you're making the plate you can position it where you want it.
Doug

Great stuff, guys. I knew you wouldn't fail me. Regarding the rebuild, I spent a fair amount of time googling and asking questions. This link http://www.slantsix.org/articles/4-speeds/ODA833fourspeed1.htm is the best article I found with the most complete info. I found much more about the Mopar trans than the GM, but they are the same, except for the bell-housing flanges and tailshaft. BTW, this GM box is more often called an 89mm than an MY6. I bought mine on ebay where it was described as needing a rebuild. I took the shift cover off, and was pleasantly surprised at how simple it appeared, so I decided to try the rebuild myself. I bought a generic 'How to rebuild a manual transmission' book, and discovered it to be worthless except for basic info. My fellow bolters recommended acquiring a genuine GM Shop Manual, aka Unit Repair Manual (see thread from Dec/ Jan), and I will vigorously support that. They are on ebay. I found several places that sell rebuild kits, but settled on A1 Transmission, 1020 Yuma St, Denver, CO 80201, phone 303-623-1401. It is probably a made-in-China kit, but had the same part number as one from another company at twice the price. The trickiest part of the rebuild is the sychronizers, which have some unusual spring-loaded characteristics. Regarding the seals, there is indeed a front seal. To avoid making this message too long, if you have specific questions, or wish to discuss it at length, email me at dcreay@vermontel.net. That is better than sending a PM thru this page.

Every once in a while something that seems too good to be true really is --true, that is. The photos posted by jfnar showed my mind to be operating in dyslexic mode, so when I turned each shift rod around, they slid into place perfectly ! The shifter sold as for an A833 is actually for the 89mm. New question regarding the Hurst shifter--it cannot find reverse. The mechanism defaults to 3-4 position, and easily moves into 1-2, but it won't move that extra bit to engage the reverse arm. It was described as having been rebuilt (or at least cleaned up), and it clearly has been bead blasted, repainted and lubed with new grease. Is it possible that something was incorrectly replaced during re-assembly? I studied everything I could find in search of an internal schematic of the Hurst shifter, but can find nothing. Am I destined to do a de-construction?

"The kit came with a 1/2" thick spacer plate that I wasn't going to use (didn't want it offset any more than it was) but I quickly found out that the hole in the spacer provided clearance for a pin that protrudes when the shifter is moved to reverse. No hole = no reverse. It went in."

http://www.chuckthetruck.com/page12.html