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I have a 49 chevy pickup with a mustang II front suspension.
The engine is a mid 1980's 350 sbc I have full size headers that i want to replace. They hang down with in 3 " from the ground. I tried hugger headers but my steering rod is in the way and don't want to move that. I don't need headers I am looking for a exhaust manifold that will dump the exhaust to the rear.
With the tight compartment this looks like the best way. Has any one no what type of manifold would work. I've been on sites that sells them and there are so many no for sure which one would do the job.

mark

The problem is most of us installed the headers then the steering. I would suggest you might think about installing whatever headers you need then make whatever changes in your steering.
Also it would help to see a pic of your situation.

I had the same problem with a 37 Chevy streetrod. I ended up using the S10 conversion headers,which exit to the rear.Any good hotrod shop should carry them,or be able to order them for you.

You've got several options with stock manifolds from 305 engines. Virtually all small block exhaust manifolds fit, you don't have to stick to ones for a 350. Try a quick trip through the local salvage yard, and I'll bet you find something suitable. Good call on NOT using headers. All they do is increase underhood temps, leak, and burn plug wires. I believe some of the Camaros used rear-exit manifolds. I used them on round track claimer engines when headers were not allowed, and we won lots of races with them.
Jerry

Jerry doesn't a lot 305's have a offset bolt hole at the rear of the exhaust manifolds & won't work on any other smallblock and the other small block exhaust manifolds won't work on the 305's?????...Joe

Some of the later-model 305's had that offset bolt hole, but Goodson and several other rebuilders' supply vendors sell aadapter plates to convert those heads for use with either type of manifold. I bought one set of them, took some measurements, and now I make my own from 3/16" steel plate. Most of the manifolds have both sets of holes. It's the heads that have to be adapted.
Jerry

Mark,

I don't know 'nuttin', but here is a wonderful site, with pictures no less!

http://www.stevensparts.com/CHEV%20EXHAUST%20MANIFOLDS.htm

Stuart

Thanks, I learned something new today...Joe

I just looked it up, Joe. The conversion plate sells for $26.99, jobber's cost, and can be used by rebuilders to convert those oddball manifolds to fit heads with regular bolt spacing. Goodson is a little picky about selling to private purchasers, but any automotive machine shop should be able to order their items for you.
Jerry

Thanks guys,
The stevens parts site is great, With the help of all i think i will be able to find something.

mark

Thanks for the imformation on the Stevens parts site I found the exhaust manifold that fits the old truck. I was in a part store talking to them about new ones. The person behind me told me he had a used set that might work. I took them home and they fit perfect. He let me have them for $10.00 New set were
$160. They were off a mid 80's pickup. Anyway two of the studs for the exhasut pipes were broke off and others need replaced.
I have put on WD-40 for a week and they still won't move. Do I need to add heat. The ones that are sheared off do you drill them out ?

Mark

Yes, you'll need heat, and lots of it. I use an acetyline torch with a rosebud tip. Heat the manifold ears, not the stud, until it gets red, and carefully work the stud loose with a pair of vise grips. You'll probably get half a turn or so at a time, and the manifold will have to be re-heated. Go slow, and don't get impatient. If there's anything left of the broken-off studs above the surface, do the heat and vise grip trick on them also. Drill only as a last resort, and be sure to clamp the manifold into a drill press so you can hit the stud dead center with the drill bit. The least bit off-center, and you'll leave a piece of steel bolt in the cast iron manifold, and then you'll break the tap off trying to recut the threads.

If you try to use a reverse-spiral "Ezy-out" thread remover, you'll just expand the thread into the manifold and lock it in so tight it will never come out. Step-drill the stud until you get to the minor diameter of the thread, (1/8" to start, 5/16" as the tap drill size, in 1/16" steps) then cut the remains out with a 3/8"-16 tap. Slow and careful, and use lots of Rapid-Tap or some other type of cutting fluid, both while drilling, and threading.
Jerry

A trick that has helped me is to weld a nut onto a broken stud and use that to back it out.