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#51398 10/21/2005 2:03 AM
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Hi Guys,
yes I'm a nag, but I find such nice stuff lately. An 4 cylinder engine with transmision, that even might be the original one from my truck, that is if someone can confirm the age. On the side is casted
H 37 and under it 84?709, does this make nay sense.
Pioctures of this thing on http://web.shockware.com/users/rosielle/puzzle1.html
Please let it be the original engine, that would be so COOL.
Thanks guys
I own you one

Richard

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yes and I should check my typing before sending it.

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Hate to be picky but what model and year is your Truck :confused: Check the casting #'s again it think it should read 348709 is a 27 block, the H 3 7 is Casting Date August 3 1927 the casting # on the head would be either 345453 (single port w/1 1/2 inch valves)used from 1922-early 1927 or 346886 Single Port AA, or LM with 1 21/32 Valves used in late 27. If your truck is a 27 this just may be the orig. engine. Serial # on pad near the distributior should start with a T if it is in fact a truck motor. Hope this helps


"If it ain't Steel it ain't Real"
"Earth the insane aslyum for the rest of the Universe"
41 1/2-ton, a work in progress
68 Shortbed stepside 327/325hp/700R4
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I worked in a Chevrolet foundry for 36 years, (starting in 1965, though). What you're looking at, I believe, on the casting number tag is the number "34709" with the imprint of a slotted head screw between the 34 and the 709. This was usually a shift marker to determine whether the engine was cast on first or second shift. If you look closely, you can see similar imprints from screws on either side of the daytag that says H 3 7

Hope this helps.

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Gentlemen,
Thank you very much, I'll try to uncover the serial # and post it here. My truck, or my truck to be, is thought to be from '26. Bucket headlights, wooden spokes and a rear brake only, but it has been modified by the owner(s) and it has a '28 engine. A label on the dash says 2000 lbs, so it's a 1-ton.
I haven't found a serial # on the frame yet, weather and work aren't cooperating to get it out of the field to a more civil environment. (Warm and dry) And I wouldn't know where to look either. I'm rather new to this. I am already happy that I have found a few parts that I need to get the engine running. (Distributor cab and possible some parts that are exchangeable) I went back last night with a flashlight and I found the carburetor + inlet and a horn that might belong to this block/vehicle. The added value of finding the block in my yard is that I might find the original owner or his family, I have been bugging the wrong family for info and pictures, and I'll have to make my apologies there.
I was thinking about bruised knuckles, WD40 and grease up to my elbows, but this is more like archaeology for the moment, it's fun or I have a slight case of the bolter flue, lets hope it stays.

Thanks again

Richard

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Richard, the 27's only had rear brakes also Chevrolet didn't put serial #'s on the frame on early cars and trucks. A build plate was attached to the firewall that listed the body style and on the inside floor sill forward of the seat there was a small plate nailed to the sill with the serial # on it, most of these are long gone it should look something like this 6LM2894 the 6 would be the assembley plant # LM would be the style LM= 1ton the 1/2 tons would have been AA=Capitol 1/2 ton and the last four #'s would be the unit # or car #, these #'s started with 1000 so the first truck built at this plant in 27 would have been # 1001.


"If it ain't Steel it ain't Real"
"Earth the insane aslyum for the rest of the Universe"
41 1/2-ton, a work in progress
68 Shortbed stepside 327/325hp/700R4
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 310
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Hi there,
Thanks for the info, I don't think there's a plate there, I don't think there's even wood there smile But wouldn't it be weird to have your serial # put there by the firm that builds the cab? This is without a doubt a Brantford cab, or do you mean under the wooden floor? I'll have a look soon and report back here. Thanks

I found the serial#( T 37358941, you're right 41chevy, with a T) on the engine, I tried to look for more but that thing is to heavy to handle on your own, I just popped my back, so those numbers will have to wait till I can get there with the tractor.
You guys are pretty good, GMC Canada says “no idea”, GMC US,” that's old, and we know nothing about it”. Thanks so far, I'll report new things here or on the website.

I like Archaeology on old vehicles and you have been/are a great help
Thanks

Richard

Joined: Apr 2000
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An article about a '28 pickup with pictures. Not the info you ask for, but you may find it helpful.
\'28 Chevy 1/2 ton


'67 GMC 3/4 292 4spd
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He Richard
That's a familiar name, thanks I do nothing but reading about Chevy's lately, great pictures too and lots of info, my wheelbase is 124/125 inches does that mean it's an other year? According to some other stuff I found it should be "27 or '26. I'll think I'll put it all on “paper” and let the experts here decide, I don't care '25 or '26 or '27, It's going to run like new again.
He, for those prices I would buy a new one anytime smile
Very nice stuff, thank you, that will go in to my Chevy info directory too.

Proost
Richard

Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,269
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Bubba - Curmudgeon
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Richard,

What a great project. Please keep us informed of your progress with your project (no matter how slowly you proceed). Be careful with your back - take it slow and easy.

It is rare to read about a pre-Stovebolt engine. You are a mix of an archaeologist, museum curator, detective, and a little kid with a new toy (and maybe no instruction manual).

Tim

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Right you are Tim,
That's about what I am experiencing, the manual is on it's way though. It might take away some of the surprises, but it will ensure that the original stuff stays original, without me wrecking it. Getting parts or making them will be a quest every time, but I'm meeting nice people on the road to it and thanks to you guys I'm getting re-infected with the bolter virus every time I go through the gallery. If you look at the effort, the hours and sacrifice, then the “bolter family” can compete with a mayor truck factory (like Chevrolet-GMC), they can just wish, they had so many dedicated, determined people working for them. Every project is different and even when you think, I would never have done it that way, you still have to admire the will to get it perfect, hanging on till it is “The Truck” and there are no others like it.
I'll keep you all posted, with a none heated shop and winter temperatures at or below -30 I'm not able to work in there long, so I have to go inside to do my tinkering and write down the little successes or disappointments on my website. The woodwork doesn't worry me at all, I used to be a carpenter and I can get my hands on all possible machinery, the engine/transmission/driveline will be different from what I am used to work on, but with the manual and a lot of help from my friends, nothing is impossible. Missing parts will be the biggest challenge, iron rusts and every day more parts get lost, scraped or destroyed. We will see, an 80-year-old truck that managed to stay around that long can wait a few more years.
Thanks for the support, we started, we will finish, but we don't keep a schedule.

Richard

Joined: Jun 2004
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The motor does look like a '26, more than likely a '27. The casting number above the dist. h 3 7 i believe is the casting date-- Aug 3 1927. The exposed push rods, single exhaust port also are characteristic of the '27. In the last photo of your "puzzle" on your site, it is the throttle shaft(gas pedal). If the motor is beyond rebuilding, I would like to purchase some of the parts from you.

Cheers,
Andrew


A man is like an old truck... He will rust out before he wears out...
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Hi Andrew,
Thanks, I thought the throttle was on the steering wheel and this was the choke. (Nothing is hooked up at the other side of the firewall) If you're patient, you can have all I have left over. I have to get a good look at the engine in the truck too; one of these will have to run if this project will succeed. It might take me awhile to have that done, my first concern is to get it in my yard; all wooden parts removed (in a way that I can restore it later) and then move the frame with all on it in my shop. Hopefully before the winter starts here. Then take it apart and examine the engine thoroughly. If it looks like it will run, I'm not doing the other one in the same way, but I'll do the transmission first. My problem is, they didn't park it there because the colour went out of style, something will be terribly wrong (still hoping it is the colour)

I'll keep you posted, or drop a message in my mail when you start to worry, just to keep it going.

Thanks for the info, all little bits will help.

Richard


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