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#51341 10/19/2005 4:29 PM | Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 31 Junior Member | | Junior Member Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 31 | My humblest most groveling apologies for bringing up a Chrysler question in the great heaven of GM, but I could use some brilliant guidance on one of my vehicles.
(1) Has anyone a nifty secret to sucking out the trapped ATF in a torque converter?
(2) Or - if not - can you recommend an external filter assembly I can tie in to my ATF coolant circuit to filter the fluid?
My 66 Mopar is jacked up and I'm right now re-building the control valve assembly, so the tranny is open - and in the vehicle.
I'm really not comfortable reinstalling the valve package with [what I know to be] some awful ATF in the torque converter.
I'm doing all this - by the way - because I lost all forward gears and only had reverse.
To top it all off - seriously - I found larvae of some kind in the valve package (walled in behind what looked like "mud dobber" clay in one of the ports. This car sat with the original owner for some time - must have - to have THAT in the transmission. I have a great digital photo that I sent to Earl Duty (The Tool Bag) at Cars and Parts!!
Anyway, any draining hints?
Motor is a 383 V-8 and the tranny is a 727-B
Spito, spitero, huchtooey splateus!
1958 GMC Series 100 stepside
1954 Chevrolet Bel Air 4-DR sedan
1966 Chrysler Newport 2-DR hardtop
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#51342 10/19/2005 4:45 PM | Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 29,756 Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) | | Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 29,756 | Don't bother trying- - - - -the converter has too many places for debris to hide to make any kind of draining or flushing effective. Swap your converter for a reconditioned unit. The rebuilders cut the weld, dismantle the converter, and replace/repair anything that's necessary. Most trans shops won't guarantee a rebuild unless the converter is changed out, also. The average cost is about 50 bucks exchange, so it's not a deal-breaker.
Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln
Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!
There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway
Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
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#51343 10/19/2005 5:08 PM | Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 31 Junior Member | | Junior Member Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 31 | Oh god!
You're talking about dropping this behemoth. I've rebuilt manual trannies - mostly chevies and GM - they're small and a sinch - but since owning my first Mopar thirty-five years ago - a cop car - I've always dreaded the 727-B. Hmmm.
I have a top and bottom [tool] box and air compressor and air tools, but what other tools or handy things d'ya think are needed to drop this thing?
PS: I'm working in a garage on the floor with the car on jackstands.
Spito, spitero, huchtooey splateus!
1958 GMC Series 100 stepside
1954 Chevrolet Bel Air 4-DR sedan
1966 Chrysler Newport 2-DR hardtop
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#51344 10/19/2005 5:54 PM | Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 1,029 Member | | Member Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 1,029 | A transmission jack would be nice. Make sure the vehicle is high enough for the transmission to clear when you get it out. And be carefull, jackstands can be overturned. | | |
#51345 10/19/2005 9:02 PM | Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 31 Junior Member | | Junior Member Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 31 | I bought a 727 transmission rebuild/troubleshooting/ servicing manual - real nice - only about $15.
It sounds like - from the instructions - you have to support the back end of the motor too. So that's the jackstands, the jack (safety feature), the tranny jack (way costly!) and another something or other to keep the motor up.
sound about right?
Spito, spitero, huchtooey splateus!
1958 GMC Series 100 stepside
1954 Chevrolet Bel Air 4-DR sedan
1966 Chrysler Newport 2-DR hardtop
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#51346 10/20/2005 2:28 AM | Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 29,756 Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) | | Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 29,756 | If you've lost all forward movement, the trans is going to have to come out anyhow. The rear clutch is fried, and all the cleaning in the world isn't going to help you get moving again. Here's the power flow:
1st. gear Drive range:
Rear clutch applied
low roller clutch applied
2nd. gear, D range:
Rear clutch applied
Front band applied
3rd. gear D range:
Rear clutch applied
Front clutch applied
Reverse:
Front clutch applied
Rear band applied
Notice the rear clutch is on in all the forward gears? If it won't move forward, the rear clutch is gone! Yank it out and get it rebuilt!
Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln
Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!
There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway
Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
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