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#51294 10/19/2005 12:09 AM | Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 196 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 196 | 1) On my 292 I look down and expect either clips or screws holding on my Distributor cap. However, there are what looks to be rivets with a big '+' on the top (but not like a phillips head screw). So how do I take the cap off to check the insides?
2) Related... I also see the condensor clamped to the coil but NO WIRES GOING TO IT. Two wires come from the same harness and go to one side of the coil. This makes me scratch my head. I'm almost guessing that one of the wires 'used to' go to the condenser.
Comments on either of these issues is welcome. Thanks.
Rance (trying to get it to hit on all 6 rather than just 5)
66 C10 FS/LB 292/4-spd manual (I also enjoy Hang Gliding)
I'm too sexy for my hair, that's why it isn't there
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#51295 10/19/2005 12:21 AM | Joined: Apr 2004 Posts: 703 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Apr 2004 Posts: 703 | Rance,
This answer is probably too easy and obvious but...
Are the hold downs on the distributor cap like the GM HEI units? I'm not exactly sure what you're describing, but it sounds similiar.
If they are, they're spring loaded... Push down with a screwdriver, and turn about 180 degrees. There's a little finger that grips the bottom of the distributor. They (2) turn out of the way, and free up the cap. | | |
#51296 10/19/2005 1:16 AM | Joined: Oct 2005 Posts: 45 Member | | Member Joined: Oct 2005 Posts: 45 | On a '66 like yours, they are likely to just be screws that you undo with a flat-blade crew driver. Should be one screw close to the block and another near the vacuum advance. That's the way it is on my '65 C20 with a stock 292. | | |
#51297 10/19/2005 1:28 AM | Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 5,708 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 5,708 | Rance, My vote is with Jed on the distributor screws... The condenser on the coil is a special kind that works without wires. It senses the energy around it and then condenses it. You can use a DED (Baldy) to see if it's working properly.   Stuart. | | |
#51298 10/19/2005 2:32 AM | Joined: May 2001 Posts: 7,438 Extreme Gabster | | Extreme Gabster Joined: May 2001 Posts: 7,438 | Concerning the two wires to your coil:
One is the ignition wire. It runs through a ballast resistor to reduce the voltage to the coil. This extends the life of the points.
The other wire is the start wire. It sends a full 12 V to the coil when your switch is in the start position. | | |
#51299 10/19/2005 10:41 PM | Joined: Jun 2004 Posts: 8,597 Riding in the Passing Lane | | Riding in the Passing Lane Joined: Jun 2004 Posts: 8,597 | The + on the heads are screws. Use a flat blade screwdriver & turn them several turns untill the cap comes off. They will not come out of the cap. The condenser on the coil is for radio suppression.The wire must be broken. If the radio does not have ign. interference foget it.
They say money can't buy happiness. It can buy old Chevy trucks though. Same thing. 1972 Chevy c10 Cheyenne SuperIn the Gallery Forum | | |
#51300 10/27/2005 12:11 AM | Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 196 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 196 | Well, I got me a good flat-head screwdriver and was able to simply unscrew them both. Unfortunately, the innerds looked ok. I guess I'll hope the cap needs replacement soon so I can get one with 'real' screws in it.  I think you're right on the condenser strapped to the coil. I think it was there as a filter for the radio (which no longer exists). Thanks for the tips guys. Rance
66 C10 FS/LB 292/4-spd manual (I also enjoy Hang Gliding)
I'm too sexy for my hair, that's why it isn't there
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#51301 10/27/2005 12:31 AM | Joined: Apr 2004 Posts: 703 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Apr 2004 Posts: 703 | Rance,
Just wanted to pass on my thanks for the follow-up.
Always nice to hear whether we've helped, or led you astray. | | |
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