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Mod | | Forums66 Topics126,777 Posts1,039,270 Members48,100 | Most Online2,175 Jul 21st, 2025 | | | Joined: Feb 2009 Posts: 21 Apprentice | Apprentice Joined: Feb 2009 Posts: 21 | after having just installed a new coil, distributor, points, plugs, plug cables, and new wiring to the generator, my truck ran fine.
tonight while running an errand, my 235 kept trying (and in some cases succeeding) to shut off. an initial inspection shows a slight fuel leak from between the top and middle of my rochester carb. the mixture was adjusted to just slightly leaner than the initial rebuild setting. (1 and 1/2 turns out)
when i installed the new distributor, i had set the timing (with the advance off) to 8 Deg BTDC. I was told originally that at my altitude (about 5500'ASL) my engine would run best between 5-10 Deg.
The last two days, it has run almost perfectly. until now.
The symptoms of tonight included the following: 1.) Stalling, 2.)trouble starting, 3.) some backfiring at one point, 4.) having to pull the choke to keep the engine running, 5.)having to rev the engine higher than normal to take off from a light.
from looking at these symptoms, i am still thinking its one of three things: timing, incorrect float adjustment, or faulty advance?
this is the only truck i have to get around with, and i need to keep it alive and running. PLEASE HELP!!!!! | | | | Joined: Nov 2005 Posts: 6,061 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Nov 2005 Posts: 6,061 | Hy hombremosqa, it sounds like it is running lean, could be low float level, or smegma in the carb passages, pull the carb apart and check the adjustments and clean it out, and put another filter in front of it, hope that helps. | | | | Joined: Mar 2004 Posts: 3,068 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2004 Posts: 3,068 | Blow back into the tank first, may be a blockage, Scott | | | | Joined: Feb 2009 Posts: 21 Apprentice | Apprentice Joined: Feb 2009 Posts: 21 | carb was just rebuilt, i forgot to mention. all galleys, and seals were replaced. i have just replaced the fuel filter as well. | | | | Joined: Aug 2008 Posts: 403 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Aug 2008 Posts: 403 | Points might of slipped. Check setting or advance.Did you put in a new condenser? 62Blue Don
62Blue 62Chevy in progress You've never been lost until you've been lost at Mach3" Paul F Crichmore (Test Pilot)
| | | | Joined: Feb 2009 Posts: 21 Apprentice | Apprentice Joined: Feb 2009 Posts: 21 | yes new condenser and they are still gapped at .016 | | | | Joined: Feb 2009 Posts: 21 Apprentice | Apprentice Joined: Feb 2009 Posts: 21 | This is a strange question, but is there a bushing or bearing inside the distributor hole? i feel some play in the installation. i was told that this could be a possible cause and could be throwing my timing off? | | | | Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 1,513 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 1,513 | I think 48bigtrucks nailed it and the problem is crud stuck in the valve at the bottom of the gas tank. Seen that one many, many times.
1952 1300 Canadian 1/2 ton restomod You Tube | | | | Joined: Feb 2009 Posts: 21 Apprentice | Apprentice Joined: Feb 2009 Posts: 21 | well, i pulled the sending unit out last night to install a new seal, and i cleaned the mesh netting at the suction tube. its clear so i dunno what could be stuck in there.... | | | | Joined: Jan 2006 Posts: 586 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Jan 2006 Posts: 586 | I would check the fuel pump for both volume and pressure.Crank the engine with the fuel line to carb off and see how much gas is pumped into a can(volume).You will need at least 3-4 lbs of pressure(check with a gauge) and look at the condition of the fuel in the can(rust,water,sludge,dead bodies??).While you have the line off,run the carb dry by running the fuel into a can and the engine running until it stalls out.Reconnect the line and start it up.The rush of new fuel will flush any crud out of the needle and seat.Hope this helps.
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| | | | Joined: Feb 2009 Posts: 21 Apprentice | Apprentice Joined: Feb 2009 Posts: 21 | i will try this. this morning, as i drove it to my mom's, i idled pretty fine, but when taking off, its like im flooding the carb if i hit the gas too hard | | | | Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 1,513 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 1,513 | I think 48bigtrucks nailed it and the problem is crud stuck in the valve at the bottom of the gas tank. Seen that one many, many times. I take that back as I ASSumed you had an older truck with the fuel supply coming out the bottom. Here's some carb troubleshooting info that may be of use: http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/carb/UM900/abc15.htm
1952 1300 Canadian 1/2 ton restomod You Tube | | | | Joined: Feb 2009 Posts: 21 Apprentice | Apprentice Joined: Feb 2009 Posts: 21 | thanks curt, i will take a look at this again today. does anyone know anything about that bushing in the distributor hole? also, is there anyone that make a replacement vacuum advance unit? | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,262 Bubba - Curmudgeon | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,262 | What year is your engine? You first post says you have a 235. Do you have a bushing in the distributor hole in your engine's block? If you have a 216/235/261, several vendors sell a reproduction vacuum advance unit for 37-62 engines. It is not an exact reproduction, a pivot post has to be drilled out and you have to you your existing pivot screw. | | | | Joined: Feb 2009 Posts: 21 Apprentice | Apprentice Joined: Feb 2009 Posts: 21 | the reason i ask about a bushing, is that the distributor feels like it has waaaaaaayyyy too much play in it. i figured with the amount of swiveling it does due to the vacuum advance, its only a matter of time before the hole widens due to this friction. am i wrong? what could it be that i am feeling when i wiggle it. its not much, but enough to notice... | | |
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