The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area General Truck Talk Needed: magician to make shortbed out of longbed..

I just bought a 55 long but I really want a short. Anybody done it? I know different states have lots of supercool safety rules that keep people from licensing frankentrucks. I need to know some frame dimensions from a 55-57 shortbed and longbed. And diagrams would be awesome too. Remember, too much information is impossible. I can use any specs you've got. The Chevy service manual has crap for actual measurements. They just tell you where to measure for a relative squareness test. I am new here. Literally this is my first post. Be helpful please. Thanks

Get yourself a factory assembly manual. It will have detailed frame dimensions.

It would be much simpler to find a short bed truck, than to try to shorten both the frame and the bed. I've owned and managed body shops, and build race car frames from scratch, but I'd be reluctant to begin a project like that.
Jerry

They did it to a '65 on an episode of Trucks! and it only took 30 minutes.

It's just metal. all it comes down to is measurements, good cuts and good welds. A little hidden reinforcement too. I have access to long and short bed body panels but no short frame to get measurements from. I can't believe a custom frame builder would be afraid of making a "z" cut in a frame and stitching it back up with a reinforcing back panel. I guess it depends on what kind of frames you build.
I have found all sorts of service manuals on several sites but no assembly manual online. Anyone know where one might be lurking?

there is no assembly manual for the TF series online

Bill

I would sell that one and buy a short bed truck.

the longs are hard to find that are original

nother thought - the long bed is longer both sides of the fender, waaay more trouble than it's worth to cut the bed down even if you do shorten the frame, easier to find a useable short bed - then cut the frame to fit

Bill

That's funny. All i keep finding are longbeds. I found one assembly manual online but it's in some kind of online library that you have to jion membership with to view books. I will take pics as I cut and weld this one. There is a guy in my town that has a 57 that he is chopping and welding all kinds of stuff on to make a 4x4 out of. After seeing what projects are being driven around for years, I have no reservations on a chop shortening project. I just need those dimensions!! Thanks for your input guys. I appreciate all feedback wether it is the exact info I need or just opinion base to mill over. I do take it all into consideration.

Yeah! somebody gets it! I can use a short bed but I need to know where to cut and weld the frame to fake a shortie.

Wheelbase for a 1/2 ton pickup is: 114"
Wheelbase for a 1/2 ton longbox or 3/4 ton pickup
is: 123.25". That equates to 9 1/4" out of the frame.
Should be all the info you need...

Dont forget, New Driveshaft, brake lines and shortening up wiring as well goes with this.

That's what I needed. Plumbing lines, cutting and soldering wire and buying a shortie driveshaft are all minor details I can achieve. I just wanted that wheelbase difference. I'll check to see if the cab to bed and other transition fittment measurements are good several times before the torch / sawzall comes to life. Anybody have a measurement from the rear cab mounts to the front bed mounts? I just dug a pit under a 56 parts truck and wrenched off a clutch set from the pedal to the bellhousing, the brake pedal and master cylinder and also found a good set of hood hinges. This is all to replace the 79 chevy blazer pedals that someone installed in the 55 I am picking up.

There is a step by step tech article on how to do this and gives all the measurements etc. I believe it is in "How to Build Tri-Five Chevy Trucks." I have a copy of it somewhere but at this time I have no idea where it might be. Maybe if someone here has a copy they could verify that that is actually where I have seen the article. If it's in there it shouldn't be too hard to get a copy. If I remember correctly it is about the only thing in that book that I found particularly useful.

Cool. Anybody that has the info, please don't pinch. I like lots of perspective. That way I can blame lots of people when I screw up. Just kidding. I know what to do methodically but need the right numbers to complete the equasion. Thanks again.

Craigslist! Short bed frames are a dime a dozen. Long beds are nice because they can haul more stuff. Seriously look into selling your truck and buying the one you really want.

there was a truck running around here that was realy cool they cut the back off and left the fenders be they were at the back of the truck it really made you look twice it was a sharp looking truck

check this thread out. Complete instructions and pictures too.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=323615

Here is an assembly manuel AA the major supply houses carry them around the same $$. Great referance

http://www.ecklerstrucks.com/product.asp?pf%5Fid=117043&dept%5Fid=226

As the others have said go find a short bet try the swapmeet or ebay etc.

Good luck

Brad

You might check the HAMB board as well, someone was doing the same thing a few weeks ago, photos, etc. Might be worth talking to someone who's done it before you start cutting.

I just got the truck. A 55 3600. It already has the bed and cab off so I can get to the frame to do an almost-frame off restoration. like I said before, not for a museum but for me to drive every day and not feel lazy for not taking the opportunity to clean up while it was without body and bed. Anyway. Back to the long short conversion and all of the measurement info. The guy I bought the truck from gave me what he called a manual from mars written by aliens with no mechanics english. I now own THE ASSEMBLY MANUAL!!! This book is the bible for anyone that needs a spec measurement or reference for a welded area on the truck from factory. EVERYTHING you need to restore a factory dimension on the cab, bed or frame is all in there. This whole post can be summed up with anyone that has a chassis measurement should get a copy. They are all over e-vilbay for around 30 bucks shipped. I HIGHLY recommend this to any task force owner. Thanks again to everybody who gave input. Anybody that has the resource to scan one, please put one online for public viewing.

I have done this on a 65 GMC and it didn't take that long, on this model I took 12" from under the cab and 8" off the rear frame. Then moved the rear cab mount back 12", and the front bed mount was removed. Be sure to brace the frame diagionally and cross ways top and bottom. I used the Z cut method because it gave me more welding area and welded a diamond patch inside the frame's Z weld for strength. I plan on doing the same thing you stated, have a nice driver and drive it. Mine isn't done yet but the plan is to have it done when I retire in a couple of years and enjoy it. The only people I want to impress is my wife and me. It is your truck so do with it what you want and enjoy doing it.

One thing you failed to mention is what engine, transmission, rear axle, etc you plan to run with your "short bed". The stock gears for a 3600 are 4:57s, hardly a good choice for a daily driver. If it already has later model parts installed it may be more suitable for highway speeds.
Fred

Didn't fail to mention. It's all stock. Otherwise i would have had a reason to mention. I already have a few rear ends under surveillance so nobody messes with them until I can wrench them apart and examine the ratios.

Hey spares, You hit the nail on the head. My wife can't wait to see my neat old truck when it's done and doesn't care what I decide to do to it along the way. All my friends like trendy junk like "slammed" or "dropped" rat rods with mail order engines and drivetrains from newer passenger cars that have painted on petina or custom oxidized rust holes. I just want my truck to look like I like it and stay that way for a long time. My 1990 chevy van is flat black because it hides my dings. That's as close to a rat rod as I want to get. Oh, I had to get rid of my chain link steering wheel because my guitar instructor says it leads to carpel tunnel. That was a real 1970s grant too so I don't lump that in with the new rat rod repops anyway.

I agree, sell this truck, people are looking for them, and buy a short bed.

Long bed trucks ride better, not so choppy.

And Cadillacs ride smoother but they aren't as cool. to me.