The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Accelerator linkage on 1960 235 with Fenton headers

Does anyone have any photos they could share on how they have the accelerator linkage setup on their 235 with fenton headers? I have a 1940 1/2 ton that I need to set up the accelerator on. It doesn't look like I have a straight line shot from the side of the engine up to the manifold. Is everyone still using the bell crank on the side of the engine connected to you gas pedal?

Bill Schickling

Bill, that's what I did.

I would love to show you a picture of what I did, but there is no way to take a picture of it at this point. I can barely see it myself!

My suggestion would be to either find one that someone has done so you can get the basic feel for the mechanism or give it a try and see what comes of it.

I personally used another engine on an engine stand to build mine and that made it much easier, but I still had to fit it to the toe floor board of the truck. I will tell you that is is very tedious work.

Joe

Bill
Use a Lokar cable attached to your modified stock pedal so when you push down w/ the pedal the cable shortens. Available in 2' 3' and 4' lengths. You'll probably have to mess w/ a hole in the floor/ firewall base (I'm not familiar w/ 40's floor pedals but look at Lokars pictures and mock up something that works for you. The cable is much better control w/ the carb. You may have to mock up a carb support/ stop assy to hold the cable at the carb as well as the pedal end. I'm going to be using my stock pedal and plan on this same idea but I have an AD.
The SS braided one might give you a little better heat insulation against the exh system. Heat shielding is also available if you so need to add it.
http://www.stovebolt.com/bboard/cgi-bin//ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=2;t=009823#000003

http://www.stovebolt.com/bboard/cgi...d=results&record=2453627-015423-W7YG

Hope this helps
Ps I love your set up.

Thanks for the input. I have the original bell crank from the 40 engine, so I will look at different options. Maybe I should wait until the cab is back on the truck.

Bill

Here's a shot of my pal's 261. He used the bell crank that was on a car 235. The crank from a 216 puts the rod in the wrong position, about 3" aft.
http://www.myoldtruck.com/gallery/files/2/3/8/Engineleft.jpg
You'll have to look hard to see the linkage. If you need more, I can take some later in the week.

Well, Bill, I decided to see if I could get a shot for you of my set up and found it apart!! :mad:

I'm not sure why, but this means I will have to re-assemble it and during that dreaded event, I will see if I can get a shot for you. I say dreaded event because, as you know, it is behind the headers and very difficult to work on with the fenders. etc. on the truck. No promises - I'll try!!

Joe

Emailed you a pic of mine Bill. It's a '57 235 with a Fenton 2-carb. and Fenton headers in a '40 1/2-ton. I homemade the linkage in the late '80's and it has worked fine ever since.

I have a few pics of the carb linkage on my Webshots page http://community.webshots.com/photo/124279908/124279908BKHefk

The engine is a 261 and I have not finished the linkage yet, because it binds/rubs on the headers and intake in a few places. I plan on moving the tab on the linkage bar directly above the bell crank and making a straight rod to connect the two.

Thanks everyone for the pictures. I am definitely a visual learner. I can see the angles you have had to use to get through the various parts.

Barry thanks for the email. That is one big return spring you have hooked up to the linkage. What is it hooked to?

Bill

Bill -

The reason I haven't been able to send you a good shot of my linkage is that I used the other bellcrank mounting spot just forward of the one cujo8 used. This puts the linkage behind the headers and exhaust pipes, but it gives you a more straight shot down through the intake and the headers to the bell crank. I made my own using aluminum rod and I used a die to thread it as necessay. I also used a tie rod end on the long rod from the pedal so it would move more free. I cut the rod and added that end. It moves very free and that in itself allowed me the ability to use a smaller spring. The other thing that causes tightness is the binding of the mechanism. The real secret to a good linkage is to build it so it doesn't bind, which I found to be pretty challenging. With a large spring, you almost have to stand on the accelerator to get it to push down, but will work even if there is a bind in the linkage. I'm using a normal chrome spring. It moves very easy. As I mentioned earlier, it did come loose at the spot where the tie rod bolts to the bell crank. If I was to do it again, and now I might, instead of a tie rod end at the bellcrank, I might use something that doesn't wobble as much. It tends to allow the gas pedal to lay over some. A heim end may work better at the end of the rod to the pedal.

I send all of these comments to you with the idea that I think you will have to build your linkage to get what you are after. I hope some of these tips help you!

Joe

Joe,

I appreciate the assistance. Since the 1940 accelerator rod connects directly to the back of the gas pedal and runs up to the bell crank on the side of the engine and then up to the carbs, I will end up with something similar. I have the luxary of moving the throttle arm on my linkage to where ever I can get the rod to come up, except wher the carbs are. So I will probably try to use the existing pedal to bell crank rod. I will have to shorten it I believe and then make a new rod that comes up like all of you have had to do. I will use the same method I used to make my brake lines. Bend an old coat hanger or 1/8 inch copper tubing into the shape that works and then make the real rod up later.

Barry Weeks said that is what he did as well.

I'll post pictures when I am done.

Thanks,

Bill

Bill- The return spring you see there is about 3/8" in diameter, but real long. I made a small steel tab that bolts to the bellhousing and has a small hole in it to attach the anchor end of the spring to. The other end hooks right to the bellcrank. I also have a second spring running straight down and hooking to the pan rail. Overkill, but I learned from race cars to always run 2 return springs. It keeps life boring if one breaks or slips off.

Barry,

Couldn't agree more. I have actually been wondering if I should put return springs on each carb in case I have a linkage problem. I am used to my bugeye sprite. It has a spring on the cable from the gas pedal and seperate springs on each carb. The stromberg carbs only seem to return via gravity.

Bill