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#49725 08/30/2005 2:21 AM
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 50
M
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
M Offline
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 50
About to put in a new gas tank for '51 3100. I just noticed that the new gas tank did not come with the draincock valve that screws in the bottom of the tank and attaches to the flex line. It does not appear in any parts catalog either. Does anyone know where this can be located? Also, I suppose you should put regular gasket sealer on the sender unit gasket. What about the floor donut and grommet??

Thanks in advance.


1951 Chevy 3100 w/235
#49726 08/30/2005 2:52 AM
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 275
K
'Bolter
'Bolter
K Offline
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 275
Hey magnmike. A while back I bought a new repro tank from one of the old truck parts dealers. I just used the valve I had, but I think the pipe is just a peice of 1/4" pipe nipple, about 2" long. And if you go to a NAPA store, or some hardware stores, you may find a valve. I know I was going to replace the one on my truck, but since I had such a hard time finding one around here, I just replaced the "O" rings, since leaking was the only thing wrong with it. As for the tank, there is a flaw on the new repro tanks, at least on all the ones I looked at at the vendor. I could not get my valve to seat up and seal. The reason is: If you will look at your old tank, there is a round, flat plate on the botton outside, where the valve screws in. This allows the pipe nipple to screw in, and bottom out against the pipe at the end of the threads. On the new tank, for some reason, they put the plate on the inside. Therefore, I never could get the valve to screw in, tighten up, and seal. Also, there was a metal bur on the threads of the hole in the tank, and ended up stripping out. I took the tank back to the vendor, and ended up getting a clean & seal kit from Eastwood.
I cleaned up my sender unit and got it working, and got a nreplaced the gasket, but did not put any sealer on it. It don't leak. I replaced the doughnut and put new pads under the tank.
Just my 2 cents worth.
KT
------------------
1949 3/4 ton Chevy

#49727 08/30/2005 4:52 AM
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 90
C
Member
Member
C Offline
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 90
welcome
We just talked a little about installing tanks.
It's 1/4'' brass pipe fittings available at most any hardware store. instead of a 90 degree elbow , you could put a 'T' and stopper plug (or valve) as well as the fuel delivery line to your filter and pump.
see
http://www.stovebolt.com/bboard/cgi-bin//ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=2;t=009877#000002
and
http://www.stovebolt.com/bboard/cgi-bin//ultimatebb.cgi
gooday
jim


Gooday
Jim

small wheel moves by fire and rod,
big wheel fires by the grace of god,
everytime that wheel turns round,
bound to cover just a little more ground.
#49728 08/31/2005 12:36 AM
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 157
F
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
F Offline
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 157
Yeah, here's what caroline's truck is talking about. I put my tank back in the truck today, and this is what I have. The pipe nipple is about 2" and the shutoff/drain is available at some hardwares, marine supplies, and tractor or small engine repair places.

[img]http://webpages.charter.net/fredstev/petcock.jpg[/img]

#49729 08/31/2005 2:26 AM
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 50
M
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
M Offline
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 50
Thanks guys! I went to Napa this afternoon. The definitely have the 2" 1/8 diameter nipple. The valve is a little tougher, but I going back in the morning to talk to the "older truck" expert. Worse case scenario they can give me a valve with an adapter to get to the 5/16 fuel line.
Thanks again for the responses and the picture! I'm going to carry the picture with me to Napa to see if they have the identical valve. It appears no one makes the exact replica of original.


1951 Chevy 3100 w/235

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