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#496405 01/22/2009 5:23 PM
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 54
D
'Bolter
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I have an usual problem, when I turn the key on my truck, the motor will turn forever but will never start until I release the key. Once the key is released it starts fine, other than when it has been setting up for a week or so but then again that is a different post.
Thanks for any help you folks can give.

Reemember "old trucks rule"

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Posts: 7,438
Extreme Gabster
Extreme Gabster
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A lot of details have been left out. Is this in your '51? Has it been converted to electric solenoid? Was the switch used for the conversion wired correctly? Some switches with a start position do not send power to ignition in start position. The power must come from a terminal on the starter. With that type of switch you must use that type of starter.


"It's just a phase. He'll grow out of it." Mama, 1964

1956 Chevy 1/2-ton 3100
1953 Chevy 6100 "The Yard dog"
1954 GMC Suburban Now with a new proud owner.
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'Bolter
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Yes, this is on my 1951 Chevrolet truck. I switched the starter from the foot starter to a key start. I didn't install a solenoid on the truck. I installed a switch from Classic Truck parts, The switch form left to right goes access, off, on, switch.
Is there some wiring that I need to do?

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A
'Bolter
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Dennis,

Your post is still a bit confusing to me. If you dumped the foot starter, the only other option would be a solenoid starter that is engaged with a key switch capable of START/RUN. This wouldn't be true is you installed the solenoid starter and a push button. You would turn the key to ON and push the button and the rig would start.

Having said this, the ignition must see power when the key is turned to START and must also see it when it flops back to RUN.

The only two choices for starters would be manual starter (stomp) or a solenoid starter.

Solenoids have a bypass circuit to supply the ignition with power for the START phase..Or, the switch can be jumpered to supply power during a START. Does this make any sense!

Stuart

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'Bolter
'Bolter
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My switch has a start/run location, start is what I was calling the switch location. When I turn the key to start and release the key, the switch returns to the run position, like a normal car. I do not have a solenoid on the truck.
Please tell me what I need to do? where do I need to install the solenoid, what is the wiring for the solenoid, what solenoid do I need to buy?
Thanks again.

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Cruising in the Passing Lane
Cruising in the Passing Lane
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sounds like you maybe changed the key switch, but still have the old foot activated starter? is the engine cranking only when you put the key to the start position, or you also pushing the foot pedal? if switch only, then you just need to add a wire to bypass the switch [and ignition resistor if 12V], to get power to the coil while the key is turned past 'run' .... the solenoid they mean is part of the key-start starter

Bill

Last edited by red58; 01/22/2009 9:16 PM.

Moved over to the Passing Lane

"When we tug a single thing in nature, we find it attached to the rest of the world" ~ John Muir
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'Bolter
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Dennis,

Something is being lost in translation here! If you can turn your key to START and have the engine turn over, you DO have a solenoid type starter, it just has some wiring glitches.

I think Cletis had the right idea from the git go! Your ignition isn't being powered in START. I don't know exactly how this would be accomplished at your aftermarket key switch, but your solenoid should have a second small terminal which is know as the 'relay' terminal. When the solenoid it engaged and starter spinning, this terminal becomes powered and sends voltage to the ignition system for a START.

When the key rolls back to RUN, power for the ignition is then supplied through the keyswitch as the little relay terminal is no longer powered.

Does this make it more clear?

Stuart


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'Bolter
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I changed the starter and the switch. The starter was from a early Chevrolet car. I didn't like the foot starter esp. on hills. The motor turns over but doe not fire until the key return to the run position.

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Bolter
Bolter
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I didn't like the foot starter esp. on hills.

how come?


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My Hotrod
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'Bolter
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First things first, I got the starting problem fixed. There is a post on the solenoid (which I didn't realize that I had on the truck) that is the "R" I needed to connect a wire from the this post to the coil, NO MORE problem, Thanks EVERYBODY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I DIDN'T LIKE STARTING THE TRUCK ON HILLS FOR OBVIOUS REASONS, 1 FOOT ON THE CLUTCH, 1 ON THE BRAKE, AND OH THAT IS ALL THE FEET I HAVE. SO I HAD TO SET THE PARKING BRAKE, DISENGAGE THE GEAR, HOLD THE BRAKE AND PRESS THE GAS AND START PEDAL ALL AT ONCE.
MAYBE IT IS JUST ME BUT I DIDN'T FIND ALL OF THAT CONVEINENT.

Anyway thanks again for being so supportive to my problem

Last edited by Dendo; 01/23/2009 7:20 PM. Reason: omission of statement
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Shop Shark
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heel and toe method works good

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Big Bolt Shop Curmudgeon
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Now, I ain't kickin' dust in your direction, but part of the fun of these old stovebolts is how different they are from anything bordering on "modern technology," like a solenoid operated starter drive.

I consider it a rite of passage to be able to start my '46 ton-and-a-half on a hill without rollin' backurds.

Oh, sure you can set the brake. That is very "ladylike!" (Apologies to the ladies in our midst who own stovebolts but don't set the brake on a hill.) I sorta like the notion of mashin' the clutch in with my left foot, holdin' the truck in place with the heel of my boot on the brake pedal, and mashin' the starter with the toe of my right boot. Not the best thing to do on a busy street in traffic, but works ok when yer by yerself out in the pasture.

I consider that "truckin'!"

But, to each his own. Most important--have fun and be safe.


Drivin' down a 2 lane country road in a stovebolt.....cowboy, it don't get no better than this!

1946 1-1/2 ton Chevy
"Ol Blue", or "THE BIG 'UN"
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Bolter
Bolter
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aw, go ahead and kick dust in his directions.... maybe he wont holler at you..lol


Redryder pix
My Hotrod
A veteran - whether active duty, retired, national guard, or reserve - is someone who, at one point in his or her life, wrote a blank check made payable to The 'United States of America', for an amount of "up to and including my life."
I am fighting cancer and I am winning the fight | Pain is part of life; misery is an option.

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Extreme Gabster
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If you use the hand throttle you don't have to put your foot on the gas.


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A lone amateur built the Ark. A large group of professionals built the Titanic.
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Apprentice
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Good for you, now maybe you can help me with my problem, that is similiar to yours. I replaced my ignition switch, the old did not have a key, so i bought the whole ignition switch and tumbler. It is for a 1953 3100. The switch only has two postions, it has a push button starter and a solenoid. When i installed the new ignition switch, i made sure that i placed the wires in the same positions, but now, when i turn on the switch on, it does not register any power, i can tell when i does because the turn signal light turn on, indicating power. Also, the Solenoid gets real hot when i connect the battery. So, two problems, is there a schematic out there, to see if i installed the wires corretly, and whey is the coil getting so hot? Thanks,


"FLY ARMY"
1953Av8tor
1953 Chevy 3100

"Airspeed, altitude and brains - two are always needed to complete the flight successfully"
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'Bolter
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Wirng diagram for 53 truck is here

regards,
Leon


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