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Joined: Jul 2005
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C
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does this sound right?? i ask
this is the original rt. front & inner fender , grill pieces, hinges, radiator, radiator frame & front hood lock & sheet for this truck. ............ granted this hood is not. frown
But
It appears that when i get the hood fitted w/ a good seam, then add the front fenders, when i close my hood the drivers side, L/F lines up
but, i have the pass, R/F side front fender is forward by about 5/8''. HUMMMMMM ohwell dang and does not line up the very front hood curve to the fender. the R/F fender is forward and the hood curve corner nicks my paint on the fenders curve.

pretty much everything is loose except the inner fender three cab bolts. when i only bolt the one bolt to the radiator frame & the inner fender w/ the outer R/F fender resting as it should but not bolted down at any point of the inner fender or body. when i close the hood and use my hip to push the passenger outer R/F fender back .... it all lines up, (the front hood and outer R/F fender curve) much better. but it's 5/8'' off.

if i loosen the hood to pull it forward the hood gap changes at the rear. nope can't have that.

I'm not sure what this does to the cab/lower cowl mounting/ fender bolt holes as i can't see there yet as i hold push the fender. maybe what i'll do is drill one re-located hole and see if that works. by drilling just the one and bolting that one, it should locate the correct R/F front curve when i put the hood down and i can then look over everything else.
so if i measure it correctly, re-drilling might be easier.

but why ohwell ????????

am i missing something here guys.
any suggestions ?????? headscratch

Last edited by carolines truck; 01/16/2009 1:15 AM.

Jim & Caroline
The highway is for gamblers, better use your good sense."
Gooday-that's my 1¢ answer due to the lousy economy ~ cause I ain't got - no . mo . doe

Every Shaver | Now Can Snore | Six More Minutes | Than Before ... | Half A Pound for Half a Dollar | Spread On Thin | Above the Collar || BURMA-SHAVE
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'Bolter
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If you are talking about moving the fender back or forward, you have limited room to do that because of the side cowl. I found that by adjusting the tension rods I could move the center left and right and this affected the fit of the curve at the front. In the end it is all a big compromise to get the best overall fit.


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W
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Loosen up the radiator core support bolts on the bottom crossmember. Loosen the bolts of the fenders at the side cowl.( There's 4 of them each side). Make adjustments to the brace rods that go from the firewall diagonally out to the inner fenders. This will let you move the nose left and right. And in moving left and right, it also moves everything forward and aft. You'll have to make a compromise between the two sides on getting the fender to hood lines looking good. You may have to oval out some of the fender mounting holes at the cowl and at the core support and shim everything to look good. Your radiator core support may be shimmed too high or too low also, so check that out. I explained all this info to "Weeds" in a post last week. Check out the "Search" feature. Good Luck.

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O
'Bolter
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Also realize you might have to re-shim the cab to get the front end to hang right.

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https://www.stovebolt.com/ubbthread...;Main=68088&Number=491463#Post491463
thanks wb

''''''Also realize you might have to re-shim the cab to get the front end to hang right.''''''''''

i hadn't even thought about that ?
pretty much all is loose, i've shimmed the rad up a tad, all bolts are very loose or not there. i've pushed the two brace rods out.
man o man what a pain this is to do. frown blush

Last edited by carolines truck; 01/16/2009 1:22 AM.

Jim & Caroline
The highway is for gamblers, better use your good sense."
Gooday-that's my 1¢ answer due to the lousy economy ~ cause I ain't got - no . mo . doe

Every Shaver | Now Can Snore | Six More Minutes | Than Before ... | Half A Pound for Half a Dollar | Spread On Thin | Above the Collar || BURMA-SHAVE

Moderated by  klhansen 

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