The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Help me choose the better engine

I want to ask you guys for a little help. I have a 1947 chevy 1/2 ton that I am doing from the frame up. the ? is I don't know what engine to use? I have a 216 and a 235.they might need to be rebuilt I don't know? so any help will do me good thanks.

Air Chevy,

Welcome to the Bolt. You're likely to get a multitude of answers to any question you ask here. One thing I know you can count on is that you'll get an answer.

Back to your question. Unless you are planning on a period correct restoration, most of the group here will tell you to go the route of the 235.

I would probably join them, as you'd have a full pressure oiling system, rather than the old splash system in the 216.

Of course if your 235 is an early model, that argument don't hold water, and there would be no difference.

Myself, I have two trucks and two splash engines, 1-216 and an early model 235. For what I do with the trucks, they work just fine.

Bottom line... You need to determine what you really want to do with your truck, and how you intend to use it.

That answer could make a significant difference in the answer you seek.

Thanks for the welcome and info.I think I would have to jump on the 235 wagon.How can I tell if its a early 235 or late model?I intend to drive it around on a daily baises.

If I'm not mistaken, one easy way to tell is by the valve cover hold down bolts. If there are two acorn style nuts on top of the valve cover the engine is probably splash lubricated. Four bolts through the valve cover skirt would be pressure lubed.

There were 235s in the early 50s that had the short side cover but were low pressure "splashers". The tell tail sign to a low pressure motor is the little plate on the driver's side of the block about midway back and below the exhaust. The plate houses the oil distributor valve.

I didn,t see a little plate on the driver side. but there is a round acorn style nut under the 5th exhaust hole. it has the two nuts on top of the vave cover.but on the bolck I found some #s on the driverside block it has 9 911 & by the starter it has c o n 1 c 1 2 4.& on the heads it has 15 over 887& the driver side head has 3701887.what #s should I be looking for? I found some more #s by the distruberator 0420333f54m.need help to determine what year this is.

Keep the original 216. It's only original once.

235 splash...

The cylinder head number is shown as a 1953 235 head in the Inliners' casting number links. The 1953 235 engines came in both a low-pressure version for the manual transmissions and as the first of the full pressure engines with aluminum pistons in the Powerglide cars. Both versions came with the 2-bolt valve covers like the 1952 and earlier engines. The 1953 engines were also the first with 18-bolt heads. The quickest way to differentiate between the low and full pressure engines is to look for the oil distributor plate, as mentioned above. Here is a link to the illustration in the Master Parts Manual.

The serial number stamped in the pad by the distributor is puzzling, as the F54 indicates a 1954 engine from Flint, but I don't know what the m is for. Look at this link for more info on serial numbers. Serial numbers can sometimes be misleading, if a new replacement block had been purchased by a previous owner and he did not stamp the original number in the new pad. I have four 1954-62 blocks and only one of them has a "correct" serial number.

What you want is the block casting number. It should be a seven digit number cast onto the block near the fuel pump. Here is a link from the Inliners' site with a pretty good list of casting numbers.

Good Luck with whichever way you go.

Hoyt

Not necessarily. Plenty of folks have dolled their engines up to make them look more period correct with the 2 acorn nuts. As mentioned, the only sure fire way to know is by the casting numbers.

Jeff

welcome to the bolt,

the following two sites have a BUNCH of useful info for figuring your engine out. i am not an expert as the others who have spoken before. i have had alot of id help from these same guys over the last 18 mos. one thing, if that is a 53 235, i believe there is a difference between the standard trans motor and the powerglide motor. the pg motor will have hydrolic lifters while the std trans will be solid. the 235 should be a by pass oil filter system, not a full pressure. usually has a coffe can like filter attached to the manifolds and smaller 1/4" lines that are attached to the drivers side bottom of the block, if they have not been removed as some people have done.

i went through the same dilema for my 46 1/2 ton and finally came to a sensible decision. a full pressure oil 261. if your gonna go, go big, but go inline.

big ed

http://www.brads41-46chevys.com/


http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/

I found the cast #s they are 3835911. I think it's a 1954 block.but the heads cast # is 3701887 I think they are from a 1953.I don't know if this works or not but thats whats on this 235.Is it worth rebuilding.

It's a full pressure 235 from a '54 3100, Flint plant, and came from a truck with a HydroMatic transmission (that's what the "M" stands for).

Is that a working combo? is it werth getting it rebuild.They say it would cost me about $2200 to redo it.

Yes, it is a working (but odd) combo. "Odd" only because of the one-year oddities of a 53 235 head, mentioned above (18 bolt head like a newer 235, and 2 bolt valve cover like the older 235 and 216).

$2,200 for a full, guaranteed rebuild (by someone who has actually rebuilt a 235 in the past) is a good price. You'll have decide if it is "worth it". You'd end up with a good high-pressure 235 engine. Any high-pressure 235 would cost about the same to rebuild.

A nice thing about your combination is the 2 bolt valve cover looks more like an original 216 (although the 54/53 combination block/head would not have the 216-style side cover).

A 261 engine or a higher-compression-head 235 engine would give you better performance. And, there are few different lubrication system advantages in using 58-62 blocks and heads.