Joe B,
Whoops! Don't know how I missed your post.
Anyway - The cooling system on the Barton pumps is really just a water jacket bolted to the front of the pump casing. Just like the water jacket on your engine, there should be NO interaction between the jacket and the inside of the pump. If there is, well . . . that's a problem.
The two lines connected to the pump jacket are just a send and receive (in and out) line connecting the water jacket to the truck's cooling system. Basically, the pump is nothing more than another addition to the system, much like the accessory cab heaters. The whole point of this is that, when the anti-freeze heats up, it circulates through the pump jacket and keeps the pump housing from freezing while responding to an alarm in cold weather/climates.
The literature in-fact touts both the heating AND cooling benefits. The reasoning being, in hot conditions, especially when the truck is working standing still (like when pumping), the engine doesn't get the cooling benefit of wind blowing through the radiator. In this case, the pump actually acts as an auxilliary radiator, giving more cool surface area (the pump water carries away the heat) to keep the temp. down.
As for the pump transmission - Short answer, no, you don't need to limit your rpms because of the pump. The pump transmission is designed for the engine it's mated to. The drive shaft connected to the dampner pulley will turn whenever the engine turns. This is proper, and causes no damage UNLESS there's no oil in your pump transmission housing!!! The specification calls for 20-weight oil usually, although if I weren't pumping at all, and couldn't easily find 20 weight, I'd use whatever motor oil I could get my hands on, just to be able to drive around.
There were two ways these pumps were connected to the engine. The simpler, and I'm assuming earlier, is nothing more than a straight shaft, keyed into the center of the harmonic balancer, and mated to the pump tranny with a three-toothed set-up. The better way, is where a universal joint flange is bolted to the dampner, and another u-joint is bolted to the pump tranny, so the drive-shaft turns thru 2 universal joints. This spares a lot of hassle and worry, trying to perfectly align the drive shaft. I will soon be in the process of converting from the older to the u-joint set-up on my '41.
OK, I've lectured so long I can't remember your other questions. Guess it's time to end this response!
Hey, do we have details on your truck? Any photos? What condition? Any equipment? Who made it? Inquiring minds want to know . . .

-First Engineer Michael