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| | Forums66 Topics126,776 Posts1,039,271 Members48,100 | Most Online2,175 Jul 21st, 2025 | | | Joined: Dec 2006 Posts: 197 Wrench Fetcher | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Dec 2006 Posts: 197 | I tried searching this and did not find much that related directly to my question even though I am sure it was out there, I want to weld up the 2 piece hood on my 52. The question I have is after I weld it up do I need to use lead to fill it or can I do the normal thin coat of body filler? I have always heard use lead, but I do not think there would be any flexing if it is welded up.
Thank you | | | | Joined: Dec 2006 Posts: 443 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Dec 2006 Posts: 443 | I have no problem using body filler vs lead. The fillers used today are so much better than years ago & I personally would use it rather than the expense of lead. Just my personal opinion. 1957 Chevrolet 1/2-ton Stepside LB in the Gallery My Photobucket shots The person who has nothing for which he is willing to fight, nothing which is more important than his own personal safety, is a miserable creature and has no chance of being free unless made and kept so by the exertions of better men than himself." - John Stuart Mill (1806 - 1873) | | | | Joined: Jan 2006 Posts: 205 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Jan 2006 Posts: 205 |
48 Chevy 3100 Shortbox 5 window "The Big Dog"
| | | | Joined: Jan 2008 Posts: 4,903 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2008 Posts: 4,903 | Although lead was used until the mid fifties, it is really more practical to use filler. 50 year old metal does not tin like it did when it was new. Although leading is done at much lower temperature than soldering, the process is much the same. 50 year old metal doesn't solder very good any more either. | | | | Joined: Mar 2008 Posts: 3,750 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2008 Posts: 3,750 | I've said this before on previous postings....If the body guys 50/60 years ago had good quality 'bondo' they would sure as heck used it! I certainly don't have a problem using it. (in moderation of course!)
1950 Chevy Advance Design 3100 in ScotlandIn the Stovebolt GalleryMore pix on Flickr. I've definately got this truck thing in my blood ... my DNA sequence has torque settings"Of all the small nations of this earth,perhaps only the ancient Greeks surpass the Scots in their contribution to mankind" Winston Churchill.
| | | | Joined: Dec 2006 Posts: 197 Wrench Fetcher | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Dec 2006 Posts: 197 | Ok Great so it sounds like welding it up and body filler is the way to go. I was more worried about the flexing of the metal and it there was any movement how the filler would react, but with it welded I could not see that as an issue. | | | | Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 427 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 427 | Flexing of the metal is a big problem. Body filler will crack. The best thing to do is weld the 2 pcs together in a stitch pattern about 2 inche welds spaced 2 inches apart then weld a filler strip down the center to fill the gap where the trim used to be. This stiffens the hood a requires less body filler. Less is best. | | | | Joined: Mar 2006 Posts: 1,703 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Mar 2006 Posts: 1,703 | I agree with Wilbur, mine was just stich welded and covered with a generous amount of bondo when i got it and it had developed several cracks in the filler. I feel if they would of welded a strip in there it would been a lot stiffer and the filler would have had a better chance. I had the hood blasted to remove all the putty and opened up all the trim holes an installed a S.S. center strip after paint. I like the looks of the center strip myself but that is just me. Tim
| | | | Joined: Jan 2002 Posts: 866 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2002 Posts: 866 | I agree with Tim, I like the center strip. I did some reading on filling the hood somewhere, lots of people put a piece of brake line tubbing in the seam and weld that in also. It eliminates a lot of the filler that would need to be used. Never tried it though. At least there would be more metal and less filler. | | | | Joined: Mar 2008 Posts: 3,750 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2008 Posts: 3,750 | O.K Wilbur,SW and coach, I stand corrected. You obviously have more experience of this. I personally prefer the centre strip too. Jock.  1950 Chevy Advance Design 3100 in ScotlandIn the Stovebolt GalleryMore pix on Flickr. I've definately got this truck thing in my blood ... my DNA sequence has torque settings"Of all the small nations of this earth,perhaps only the ancient Greeks surpass the Scots in their contribution to mankind" Winston Churchill.
| | | | Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 381 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 381 | Hey SW - the filler cracked in your hood because the hood seam wasn't welded the entire length. You stated that it was stich welded, which I interpret as there were areas along the seam where it wasn't welded. If the hood is welded along the entire seam then there should be no flexing in that area and the filler shouldn't crack. | | | | Joined: Dec 2006 Posts: 197 Wrench Fetcher | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Dec 2006 Posts: 197 | That was what I was wondering too, but after all the advice it kind of detered me from doing the welding up of the hood. If it was the case and I welded the entire length then that would not be bad since I was planning that anyway.
| | | | Joined: Jul 2000 Posts: 2,115 Insomniac | Insomniac Joined: Jul 2000 Posts: 2,115 | My hood has been welded together. I am surprised that your search didn't find anything about that because I did post here about my experience.
I told Fran that I was going to weld the hood since the parting strip was in bad shape. One day I came home from work to find out that she had "helped out" by going ahead and welding it up for me. Trouble is she just grabbed the MIG and did one big long bead. The hood was warped. The good advice from the guys here was to do the weld in stitches to avoid warping but she hadn't read that. Take your time and let it cool. Go back and fill in the gaps until you have a continuous bead - should take about 5 passes, letting it cool between passes.
Anyway, my hood was warped and people here told me that the hood was ruined - go get a new one. I was not willing to accept defeat. I cut out the worst sections, flanged the edges and welded in patches. I also added reinforcing strips to stop the hood from oil canning. The gap was not filled with Bondo; I used long strand fiberglass filler. A skim layer of Bondo was added just to make it smooth. The underside of the hood isn't pretty with the patches and reinforcing strips, but that can be hidden by insulation
Personally, I like the look of the smooth hood.
Gord 🇨🇦 ---- 1954 1/2 ton 235 4 speed | | |
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