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WHAT EMERGENCY CABLES WORK W/ 10-12 BOLT REAR??
I'm doing a rear end swap on my 51 3100 using a 12 bolt, 6 lugger suburban as the donor.
WHAT cables should I use as emergency brake cables ??? Hints, Tips are gratefully appreciated.
jim

did the same on my 51,3100. but used a full size blazer 10 bolt. used blazer cables and e-brake assy,just look at how everthing was installed on doner truck ,mine works great. old navy 51.................

I have identified that Lokar part number EC8004U cable set will work for this application. I am doing the same swap to my 54. These cables connect to the stock cross bar. I have also found out that the 72 Blazer brake cables are the correct length but no one around here stocks them for me to test fit.

I just cut off the Blazer cables to the correct AD length, crimped on new threaded ends like on the AD cables and put it back together. Oh, I did have to make spacers to hold the cables in the AD bracket.

Works very well and looks original.

Can you tell us more details? Where did you source the threaded ends? What size thread? Did you use the original clevis assy on the cross bar? How did you crimp/swage it to the cable? What is the overall length of the cable?

I made the threaded ends from pieces of 5/16" fine threaded rod. I cut the rod to the length of the originals and then drilled a 1/8" hole into the rod about 1" deep. I cut the ends off the cable and pulled the cable back into the housing so I could cut the housing to the correct length. Then pushed the cable back through the housing and cut it to the correct length. I heated the end of the threaded rod red hot and then pushed the cable into the hole. I cut a small notch into two pieces of 1/2" steel and laid the area to be crimped into the notch. Using the other piece of notched steel, I just hammered them together making a very secure crimp of the rod onto the cable.

The 5/16" fine thread rod allowed me to use the original clevis assemblies.

I don't remember the cut off length of the cables. Just hold the cables up to the mounting brackets, leaving a bit of slack and mark them.

Toughest part of the complete swap was making spacers to hold the cable housings in the AD brackets. After you cut off the cable housing there is nothing for the bracket bolt to clamp onto. I took 1/2" round stock and cut it to the same length as on the AD cable housing. I first drilled a 3/16" through the entire length of the rod. I then drilled a hole into the 1/2" rod just large enough for the cable housing to go into it. But don't drill this hole through the entire length of the rod, stop about 1/4" from the end. This provides a stop for the cable housing to keep it from sliding through the clamp when you apply the parking brake.

I then used a cut off wheel to cut a slot down the entire side of the rod. This slot allowed the rod to tighten down on the cable housing when the bolt in the bracket clamp was tightened. You also have to grind a small notch in the side of the rod in order for the bracket bolt to clear the rod.

This entire conversion made for a very original looking parking brake setup. Even the "experts" dont usually notice the different rear axle setup.

I know this all sounds a bit confusing, but it was really pretty simple. I do have pictures of the entire operation and if anyone would like to see photos of some of the details, email me and I can send them to you.

Thanks for the details. With the pictures it would make a great tech tip as many of us are swapping out the rear differentials but want to keep the stock e-brake assembly. I would appreciate any pics you have. This was done using the 72 blazer cables or another year?

This was using the e-brake cables that came stock with the early 80's Blazer rear axle.

afu45
I sure would love to see those shots you have. It sounds like a nice job. Houston's correct on the swaps many of us are currently planning &/or doing. The pics would surve as a good article.

The great idea of calling a local boat chandlery and they might sell the fittings and have a nicro press to properely crimp...
plan B,
I just saw over the weekend was the old 5/16'' fine 28 UNF thd. swap with 2'' of old cable left on and the new rear end emer. Cable was clamped by a small 'U' bolt clamp. owner said he did that 18yrs ago. No problems.

fran and gord
do you or anybody for that matter know where to find the rubber grommets on the cable?

If I had to do it again, I would use these and have them installed at the sail boat shop:
Swage stud

These can be used without taking the cable down to the sail boat shop for swaging, but are expensive:

Qwik attach

I just talked with the NAPA 800 line and gave them the specs for the 'conduit length' and two types of ends I wanted.

The conduit length is the distance from the brake backing plate to the mount on the frame for the cable. The length on the original cables was about 30-32 inches.

The two ends I want are for a 12 bolt e-brake and the 5/16ths threaded end to use the stock clevis/yolks.

NAPA has a stock part which for 10 bolt/12 bolt rear ends with 5/16th fine thread end and a 28" conduit length. Part number 92416.

If NAPA is out of stock and cannot order it any brake shop can get it using that part number.

I'm going to order a set, bolt them up will post an update about whether they work or not.

FYI I'm planning on grinding down the conduit end on the threaded end to fit into the stock mount and if the conduit length is too short but the overall cable will work, I will grind out the bolt heads on the threaded end mount, place them where they need to be on the frame, drill some holes and bolt them in with grade 8 bolts.

I did the swap 9 years ago,it was pretty basic stuff.I cut off the pressed on cable stop on the stock 80 Chevy 12 bolt cables,the free end not the brake shoe end,shortened the cable casings with a chop saw,feed the cable back in.The reworked cables fit into the stock 51 Chevy cable supports.Then hooked the cut end of the brake cable to a hardware store clevis attaching the cable to the 51 emergency brake cross arm.The clevises have a short length of threaded rod and using u-bolt cable clamps to secure the rod to the brake cable to make a slip proof conection.

Here is how I solved the brake cable problem on my 54.

http://www.picturetrail.com/gallery/view?p=999&gid=8309838&uid=2902753&members=1