The Stovebolt Site Forums The Parking Lot Panels 'N Burbs Defroster Woes...

Okay maybe it doesn't really fit, because my '55 1st GMC Suburban has a disk brake conversion on the front, a dual master cylinder and a Chevelle rear axle. And Cragar mags. And Honda bucket seats. And LED taillights. But otherwise its stock...

I would drive it more often but during the winter its so wet inside I have trouble seeing out of it. Its going to take a full restoration to seal the body up enough to keep it dry. The defrost will keep it dry once I wipe it dry, but otherwise I can't drive it.

What do the rest of you do about a damp foggy interior?

Here is a picture of it, taken last January after a drive. You can see the windshield is dry, but the back windows are still wet. I'd sure like to be able to see out when I drive it!

I wonder if you could install a rear heater like we have in our mini van?

My Viking 40 had the heater core by-passed when I bought it. I have never ran hoses to it, so I just don't drive it when it's cold (unless I have to).

John

just pretend it's a panel truck, I've always got around ok in them without seeing out any side windows

along the lines of what John suggested, back in the day there was an aftermarket [burb accessory?] heater that went under the seat, had it's own fan that blew to the rear, xtra heater hoses ran under the floor to it .... I've seen a couple, not available of course, but I have it planned to fab up something for the future panel

daily drivers don't hafta be "stock", just driven any old time regardless of the weather, if it was a garage queen you only drove in fine weather to show off you wouldn't have the problem .... or of course, if you moved outta the rain forest

Bill

You really need to address the water leak situation first,a damp/wet interior will always steam up.
Worst still,in really cold weather you can get ice on the inside! Remember they have a lot of exposed cold surfaces for water to condense on.
Stop the moisture ingress and have a toasty truck!
Open a vent glass to increase 'flow through' to stop the humidity levels building up,and even the original heater should be able to do it's thang!

Jock

Fixing the leaks is likely to mean taking it out of service for years. While it is a good idea, it means the truck is off the road while I do a huge amount of body work. It rarely gets below freezing around here, and most likely those days I'll drive something else.

I don't want a panel truck and would have trouble pretending my Suburban is one...

I like the rear heater idea. Currently is has no seats behind the front pair, but I see no reason now to drop a second heater back there.

I did drive it to and from work today. I had to dry the windshield with a rag a couple times, but before I'd gone a mile it was staying clear enough to be comfortable.

Being from the middle of the Canadian prairies, I've had some experience with cold weather and frosted windows. A couple of things you can do-

A van style rear heater will make a big difference. You'll have to run long heater hoses so its a good idea to insulate the hoses to avoid heat loss.

Make sure the air being heated is fresh air! If you have a "recirculate" position on your heater ( which probably wasn't an option on your Burb ) DON'T use it in the winter. If you do you're just moving around damp air. You need to bring in fresh outside air. New vehicles now even cycle the A/C compressor to remove moisture from the air.

Get lots of air moving around. I had an old Land Cruiser with this problem. I cut the heater box out and installed the biggest heater motor and fan assembly I could find into the hole.

Sealing the body up too tight might be the wrong thing to do- sometimes rolling a window down a bit to bring in fresh air helps. Lots of houses here were built real tight a few years ago for "energy efficiency" at 40 below. Unfortunately they were so damp inside in the winter people were having mold problems. Now they use heat exchangers or plumb in lines to the furnace cold air return for fresh air- mine has a 5" line.

Hope some of this helps!

Until you decide I'd definitely try some of the products that are out on the market to rub on the windshield to help retard the mositure from it just for safety sakes. Even a nice rub with WD40 will help but there are others out there.

....plus what others suggested.

Hey Old Sub. Sealing the leaks does help. I'm in Brentwood Bay, and drive my 1950 1 Ton all the time. I've got the fresh air heater, it, and the rad, etc, are clean. Even on high, with a leak proof cab, it still needs help. The worst of it occurs when I'm wet from the rain, and get in and drive, as I'm sure that's the case for you. I always keep a small shower squeegee in there for the side and rear windows. Just last week though, I put a crappy plastic dash fan in, the kind you get at walmart for $15. It oscillates, and keeps the windows clear. It does take up alot or real estate in there. I'm currently waiting on an old Trico Vacuum fan to replace the plastic one. It's one of those ones you see in Model T's. At any rate. When I was driving my old Land Rover, I was also having the same problem. I went to Princess Auto, and got a 30,000 BTU bus heater. That pretty much solved all the heat problems-it was uninsulated, an I was living in Calgary. Oh, look at me ramble on and on.

No doubt sealing the leaks would help.

But it would end daily driving of this one for several years because the amount of rust damage will require extensive work that I won't do quickly.

The reality is I'm driving a truck most people would scrap and collecting body panels to use in repairing it. I've got most the parts, but not the time to work on it...

I may try the added fans. I hadn't thought of that. I've done RainX inside and out before and it does help some. Mostly I just keep it licensed and insured as a daily but drive either my Corvette or K2500.

oldsub, I got a suggestion. put in a under seat heater from a Buick. I even got one for you if you're interested. all you need to do is put a splitter in the hose to your heater and run a second heater hose. you can even get a water pump (NAPA, $40 or so) that has two outlets, just for that.

What Buicks had underseat heaters? Maybe I can find one local real easy?

I think pretty much every buick from 1950-52. they're under the front bench seat

most large truck stops have aux. heaters that run off the cigarette lighter or other 12volt source. i though of getting one for my 54/3100 but i went head and installed new heat and air.

I feel like I've seen auxillary heaters for sale somewhere. Also I've seen heaters for hot rods that are basically just a box to set under the seat. Thinking about this it occurs to me that I could simply use an extra truck heater...

Studebakers during the fifties also had underseat heaters.
Glenn

My "recirculate" valve is definately stuck, although it worked when I took it all apart last year. But I think it may be stuck to the fresh air setting. That little window on the heater is never open. But my defroster doesn't exactly send a galeforce of air over the windshield, even with the blower on full, and the heater doesn't seem to generate all that much heat ever. Can that be the 180 degree thermostat? What blows from the deluxe heater isn't close to 180... The temp gauge shows normal operating temp.
I have gotten used to a foggy windshield. I'll never find any Buick heaters over here.

Organ,

I am coming in late on this thread, so somebody may have said this already. Is there air in your heater core? it may not be fully circulating. I have to bleed the air out of mine as well, maybe today.

Mike

I just hijacked the someone else's thread - I got my own defroster woes. I'll try bleeding the heater core, never thought of that idea. The hoses to and from have been warm enuf

Karl

I'm no expert on these old heaters, but I'd think if both hoses are heating up water must be flowing through the core. I'd never heard of bleeding the core until I started playing with later stuff.

I don't think my problem is heat as much as it is moisture and that problem will remain until I get deep into the restoration of the body, something that is still a few years off.

In just a few minutes looking I found a 'street rod heater' that looks like it could be fit under or behind the seat of many trucks, and this is a brand new one so no worries about the core.

Mojave Universal Heater. Measures only 10-1/4" wide, 9" deep and 5" tall. Less than $200 so not pocket change, but not second mortgage kind of money either.

Steve,

Modern cars run the A/C to dry the air out when using defrost. My Opel was a bear when it rained as the slightest moisture just turned into warm moist air blowing onto the cold damp windows and the situation actually got worse.

Living in Seattle means that winter isnt really a dry season, so you may have to plug the leaks or add an aux heater. if you are looking for function, a simple aftermarket auxilary cooler with a fan works wonders for pushing hot air.

The Mojave is also a good choice.


Just my opinions.

Scott

That made me laugh Scott!

We had three inches of rain in about 12 hours a week ago. Actually ended up with puddles in my basement from that one. Places only 100 miles from here had 12 inches and more in the same time period.

Ultimately I'll have to fix the leaks. But living in a wet place like this, you can imagine how bad my rust problems really are. But once I start taking it apart I know it will be out of service for years and I'd rather live with the interior moisture than give up driving it!

you could burn a 60 watt bulb in there when not in use helps keep it dry and warm thats what i used to do in my hillman in the winter

i am going to try one or two of these.
http://www.sportsimportsltd.com/12voaupoauhe.html
for the price it won't hurt to give it a shot.

180w may do well in your California climate, I don't know.
On the wet coast my truck fogs as soon as I get on the highway in the rain. I went with out a heater core for a week and bout a 300w plug in the c-lighter heater for $30. I knew what I was buying having used one years ago in our Bug, all it will do is move warm air (if you can call it that) to the glass it's pointed at meaning if you point it at the drivers side thats all that will stay defoged. Mind you I only bout it for frosty mornings and it kept my side clear. If your serious about extra heat I'd sugest at least a 1000w heater but I don't know if there is a dash top model avalibe.
For fog I like RainX defoger that you should be able to get at any auto parts store, a little does alot. The only thing I don't like about RainX is if it rains everyday, I have to wipe the windows every morning and then after work. I tried a 50/50 mix with methol hydrate and it stayed defoged for a few days but the cab smelt like sour moonshine. Optical shops sell defoger and it's darn good stuff that lasts days but it is pricy for what you get.

I blocked off the passanger side of the cowl so when it rains it doesnt directly rain into my core box on my 60 panel it seemed to help quite abit

Hi, there are are lots of good ideas above but the best one is to seal as many holes as possible. You can fiberglass(clean back to bare medal), make patch panels and use marine sealer and pop rivets(or sheet metal screws) to hold in place,on the under side spray on undercoating, top side paint.DO it under the size of the replacement parts. If it is a bunch of pin holes see about getting bed liner sprayed on the floor and firewall.

In my 57 Suburban, the stock defogger works pretty well to keep the windshield clear. For the side and back windows, I use a cloth soaked with some sort of defogging chemical, I bought this rag at Canadian Tire and it works pretty well!