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| | Forums66 Topics126,778 Posts1,039,288 Members48,100 | Most Online2,175 Jul 21st, 2025 | | | Joined: May 2008 Posts: 88 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: May 2008 Posts: 88 | I started working on my doors today to get my cab ready for bodywork, and i can't figure out how the door glass comes out of the door? How do you remove the window regulator with the glass in it??, and i figured out how the vent window is mounted in the door, but how do you get it out? Do you have to remove the window first and then the track it rides in? The assembly manual shows how everything is mounted in the door, but not how they got in there. My doors are stock 59 3800 1-tons | | | | Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 4,983 Master Gabster | Master Gabster Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 4,983 | It's not brain surgery. Just remove the door panel and use a flashlight to see what is up there. Then start unscrewing and unbolting everything. Take it slow and you'll get the job done.
~Jim
| | | | Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 14,522 Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall | Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 14,522 | I have not ever done a 59 but it should be similar to, if not like my 52 panel. Pull the panel off. To get the window out I think you have to take the vent assembly out. MINE had couple sheet metal scews and two small bolts holding it the vent assembly in. PLUS...on MINE there is a bolt in the very bottom of the vetical post...the one that the front of the window slides up and down it. You have to reach and take it loose. Once the screws, couple bolts right at the bottom of the vent assembly, the one on the bottom of the vertical post and the vent assembly should come out. You will have to sort of "half twist" it to come out but it is fairly easy.
The window then can be rasised up about one third and you can see the regulator arm that slides back in forth in the window sash. The sash is the piece that the window actually fits down into. When you turn the glass "up" the window should come out as the arm of the window regualator sldes out the end of the window sash. Once the window glass is out you have about 3 or 7 screws that hold the regulator in. Take those out and the regulator should come out the inspection hole. I would imagine you will also take the door control out to. Some screws hold it in and the latch. The latch is no big deal. Take the screws out of the door edge and the latch will come out with ease. I just did mine and I like to clean up the regulator and sprayed them with hammered silver and they really look nice. Lube them some when you put them back in and they will work much better. Hope this h helps. OH...there is a nice TECH TIP in the tech articles about rebuilding the windvent which would get you to where you need to be. Itis well worth reading. | | | | Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 4,983 Master Gabster | Master Gabster Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 4,983 | OH...there is a nice TECH TIP in the tech articles about rebuilding the windvent which would get you to where you need to be. Itis well worth reading. Alvin: I assume you followed the tech tips on yours. How did it go? Any problems, headbangers, grief?
~Jim
| | | | Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 14,522 Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall | Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 14,522 | Big Chevy 3600: I pretty much followed the tip. What is helpful if you read that tech tip about 4 times before you start and study the pics. Then you'll know just exacly what you need to do.
IF I remember correctly I did not use any other bit except the 11/32. I use it through both pieces of the hings and things worked out well. I didn't have to use the "R" bit. (or was it the "s" bit??) However I did measure ALL the new pins with my micrometer to make sure they were all the same. Mine came out nice. | | | | Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 4,983 Master Gabster | Master Gabster Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 4,983 | Thanks Alvin. I will start on mine after the first of the year. I agree with the need to rear and reread the directions. It is, of course, against all we believe as men. 
~Jim
| | | | Joined: May 2006 Posts: 679 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: May 2006 Posts: 679 | This is an old thread, but I thought it the best place to continue the discussion:
I've got everything out of the door: glass, regulator, vent window assembly. My question is how do I get the vent window and frame out of the vent window assembly????
I looked at the tech tip, but the rivet that looks to be replaced doesn't appear to be the top pivot pin. On the bottomside, where the tension spring is, I grabbed the flats on the bolt thinking that it would torque off, but it didn't. It only started to twist. Do I somehow remove the top pivot point?
I'm really frustrated with this, and appreciate any tips.
I need to remove the whole vent glass and frame to replace the rubber.
Bill
Last edited by TxLaTx; 04/13/2009 2:07 PM.
| | | | Joined: Feb 2002 Posts: 12,029 Cruising in the Passing Lane | Cruising in the Passing Lane Joined: Feb 2002 Posts: 12,029 | take off the big nut - already off? the flat is to position that little pointy stop piece at the top end of the post - once that spring stuff comes off it should move up and down enough to slip the top pin out of it's hole .... the rivets seen to the right are the ones that need to come off the post to replace the post rubber and felt Bill | | | | Joined: May 2006 Posts: 679 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: May 2006 Posts: 679 | Thanks for weighing in, Bill.
On the lower end I took off the big nut, the tanged washer under it, the spring, and the two washers under the spring. I was left with nothing but the 3" long threaded post that has flats on two sides.
The upper end just has the long-ish pin. The vent glass/frame slides about 1/4" up and down, but not enough for the upper pin to move down through a hole before something (?) on the bottom end stops its downward movement. I thought it was the frame bottom that the 3" long threaded post goes through.
Hopes this makes sense.
Bill | | | | Joined: Feb 2002 Posts: 12,029 Cruising in the Passing Lane | Cruising in the Passing Lane Joined: Feb 2002 Posts: 12,029 | OK - had an assy with glass and spring gone - place the end of the division bar on the ground, open the vent alla way, hold down on the top of the glass frame while pulling up on the surround frame until you get the pin to come free of the hole and push past the rubber - yer uncle Bob .... not as easy to get back together .... the 'next' pic shows the recessed rivets that come out to replace the [rigid] vertical rubber ... the pic after that is the pair I rebuilt for my panel project, replaced the division bars with new ones, had to drill all the holes and replace all the rivets, NO fun, just hafta keep at it  Bill | | | | Joined: May 2006 Posts: 679 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: May 2006 Posts: 679 | I see you wrote the caption "Spread frame to get top post out" - I'll try to have a delicate touch!
I ordered the rivets today with the other $140 worth of stuff to get the windows smoothly gliding up and down while surrounded by soft gaskets and felt.
Thanks for the guidance and the picture. I'll give it more persuasion tonight and let you know what happens.
(By the way, if I EVER mention that I'm going to do a windshield installation in the future, give me a virtual head-slap. Just because something can be done doesn't mean that it should! I'm now a "let the pro's do it" convert.)
Bill | | | | Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 4,983 Master Gabster | Master Gabster Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 4,983 | There is, somewhere on the Paint and Body forum, a detailed description on how to do this, with pictures you should find. I'll look around and see if I can find the link. Ah, here it is! http://www.chevytrucks.org/tech/ventwindowrebuilt.htm
~Jim
| | | | Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 4,983 Master Gabster | Master Gabster Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 4,983 | And BTW this site is a great place for tech support when working on your old bolt.
~Jim
| | | | Joined: Apr 2009 Posts: 192 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Apr 2009 Posts: 192 | Just did the vents and windows myself ('58) went smoothly. Today the "Pros" came by to install my new front windshield...Could not quite get the right fit after 3 hours,they'll be back in the morning with the "Boss" hopefully they get it done.Be careful on this one it's tougher than it seems ! | | | | Joined: May 2006 Posts: 679 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: May 2006 Posts: 679 | Bill- Got it! I did as you recommended and got a little more aggressive with it and managed to spread the frame wider so that the top pin would slip through the hole. I'm a little worried about putting it back together once I have my replacement gasket in place. On disassembly, I didn't have to worry about boogering the gasket up. I won't have that luxury next time.
Jim- Thanks for the link! I'll be using it along with the Stovebolt Tech Tip.
RAK- I lived it. After 4.5 hrs of beating, tugging, repositioning, with ANOTHER Stovebolt member who has gobs of experience, I'm still not 100% satisfied with the fit. We worked out butts off! It wasn't because of lack of effort, that's for sure. Heat from the sun helped, but I'm hoping to take it back to the glass shop on Friday to let them look it over. Maybe they can offer some adjustment suggestions. If you don't mind, please PM me with what your "Boss" offers. Maybe I can apply the same logic to mine.
Tomorrow I'll be going to the glass shop to get the flats cut while I'm waiting on my parts to arrive.
Mucho appreciado, Bill | | | | Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 4,983 Master Gabster | Master Gabster Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 4,983 | Bill, is it your belief that letting the glass shop install the glass after restoring the frame might be a good option?
~Jim
| | | | Joined: May 2006 Posts: 679 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: May 2006 Posts: 679 | As of right now, no. I'll get the glass and toy with it. If I'm feeling overwhelmed, I'll let them put it in the frame.
I also looked at buying the glass and frame complete from a parts supplier. It seemed a little steep.
I'll keep my options open for now. If worse comes to worse, I'll throw money at it and learn my lesson (again.)
Bill | | | | Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 14,522 Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall | Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 14,522 | TxLaTx: I'm not sure about yours but my AD windvent had leather washers in two places on the Bottom stem. I used a hole punch set to make me a few. Yours may not have them but mine did and a fellow bolter took apart an original and confirmed that the AD did have a leather washer on the bottom. One goes inside the little rectangular box and one goes on the bottom. Does this make any sense!
EDIT: I had the wing vents for my 52 cut at a local glass shop for $20 each. BUT I want to put them in myself in case I have to "pull back/out" on the glass to make sure it seals good against the vertical post. AND I might add that the rivets that hold that vertical piece is a real pain and I never got them to flatten out good....SO, I put some good black adhesive on the metal, put the vertical strips in and clamped them in place with a piece of wood as long as the strips using a small clamp. They came out nice. I beat one rivet till I was mad...the rivet tool was not a good one or the rivets were dang near case hardened. The adhesive I used was made by permatex and was water and gas proof. I think its gonna work nice..anyone need some rivets!!
Last edited by Achipmunk; 04/19/2009 4:14 AM.
| | | | Joined: Apr 2009 Posts: 192 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Apr 2009 Posts: 192 | Note of caution regarding replacing the rivets. You'll have to drill out the old rivets. When you put in the new rubber strip use adhesive first for good measure and be sure the new rivets are clear of the new vent glass. Test close and look to be sure so you don't crack or chip new vent glass edge ? | | | | Joined: Sep 2010 Posts: 222 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2010 Posts: 222 | Hey guys, Continuing this thread from long ago... I'm having trouble removing my vent window assembly, specifically I can't loosen the lower bolt that secures the assembly/window channel to the door frame deep inside the door. Does it simply unscrew from below? Does anyone have a photograph of this part of the assembly w/ the bolt as it sits in the door? (i.e. if the vent window is a flag on a flagpole, then I'm talking about the bolt at the bottom of the flagpole) Cheers, Nick | | | | Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 4,983 Master Gabster | Master Gabster Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 4,983 | I have my son do that part. It is just hard to get to but entirely possible. I believe it screws out from the top. I can't remember if it is a bolt or screw. Someone else will drop by with better information.
~Jim
| | | | Joined: Sep 2009 Posts: 433 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Sep 2009 Posts: 433 | nrdesieyes 1/25 Assembly Manual The bolt unscrews from the bottom and should be a half inch bolt head... Rubber bumber on top
Last edited by healingbear; 05/05/2011 1:50 AM.
1954 Chevy 3104 3 Window Hydra-Matic in my family for over 60 Years
Once in a while you get shown the light in the strangest of places if you look at it right... "Scarlet Begonias" Grateful Dead 1974
| | | | Joined: Sep 2008 Posts: 105 Wrench Fetcher | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Sep 2008 Posts: 105 | I also found it useful to get an inspection mirror that telescopes and place it up in the door. You can see a lot better what you are doing and you don't have to lay on your back.
Chris | | | | Joined: Sep 2010 Posts: 222 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2010 Posts: 222 | healingbear - thank a lot, that's perfect. i didn't even think to consult the assembly manual... duh. I figured it was 1/2-inch (blind trial and error w/ sockets) but it's so stuck I wanted to confirm before wrenching hard on it.
kenneycj - i definitely need to get a telescoping mirror, good idea.
thanks guys, nick | | | | Joined: Sep 2008 Posts: 105 Wrench Fetcher | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Sep 2008 Posts: 105 | The bolts on mine were stuck pretty good too. I soaked them with WD 40 every day for a few days before I tried to break them loose. Otherwise the shaft that it screws into will bend out of shape easily.
It's not too bad getting it out--putting the door glass/vent assembly back in is another story all together--don't ask me about that part of the project.
Chris | | | | Joined: Feb 2008 Posts: 109 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Feb 2008 Posts: 109 | I searched many forum listings for something close to my issue of the weekend; found that this one seems to be it. I had the bottom stud on my '58 driver's side vent window break off at the point where it is joined to the frame. The vent fell out, contacting a very nicely painted door, 1/2" gouge of paint is there now. How is the best way to repair this broken vent? The gasket material around the vent is still soft and pliable. The frame where the main window slides is in great shape, main window operates great. I can buy an entire vent window/slide assembly for ~$350, there is a you tube video that shows this task entirely and it looks like a task that is able to be completed. I don't want to be cheap, but this looks the simplest? I see that I can buy a set of vent windows (using one) to replace the driver side vent for $130. Do I pull the entire assembly out of the door (using the youtube video as guide) and attempt to remove the bottom nut from broken stud and free the spring to be cleaned up and re-used and re-assemble the frame as a whole unit? Has anyone replaced the vent window while leaving the frame in the door? This 2 vent window option would give me a window for the passenger side which will probably break next, with my outstanding luck.
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