The Stovebolt.com Forums Home | Tech Tips | Gallery | FAQ | Events | Features | Search
Fixing the old truck

BUSY BOLTERS
Are you one?

Where is it?? The Shop Area

continues to pull in the most views on the Stovebolt. In August alone there were over 22,000 views in those 13 forums.

Searching the Site - a click away
click here to search
New here ??? Where to start?
Click on image for the lowdown. Where do I go around here?
====
Who's Online Now
1 members (Danielbolt), 479 guests, and 1 robot.
Key: Admin, Global Mod, Mod
Forum Statistics
Forums66
Topics126,777
Posts1,039,267
Members48,100
Most Online2,175
Jul 21st, 2025
Step-by-step instructions for pictures in the forums
Previous Thread
Next Thread
Print Thread
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 8,877
G
.
.
G Offline
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 8,877
Peggy and John just finished with a new Tech Tip covering disc brake upgrades and diesel engine swaps for AD big bolts.
http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/bigbolts/p30swap/

While it is geared toward Advanced Design (1948-54) 1.5 and 2 tons most of the info and ideas also apply to 1 tons. The ideas and tips will be helpful for many "newer" model trucks, and even some older.

Sure wish I knew about this stuff 10 years ago, headscratch probably would have done things a little differently.. wink

What do y'all think?
Any helpful suggestions or comments?

Thanks,
Grigg



1951 GMC 250 in the Project Journals
1948 Chevrolet 6400 - Detroit Diesel 4-53T - Roadranger 10 speed overdrive - 4 wheel disc brakes
1952 Chevrolet 3800 pickup
---All pictures---
"First, get a clear notion of what you desire to accomplish, and then in all probability you will succeed in doing it..." -Henry Maudslay-
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 940
C
'Bolter
'Bolter
C Offline
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 940
It all sounds good Grigg, but there ain't nothing like a Detroit. Your truck will be a real head turner when it's done.

Bill


'60-'72 Chev/GMC Fan
GMC 9500 Fan
Detroit Diesel Fan
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 14,522
Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall
Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 14,522
Hmm, maybe I need a BIG bolt so I can use the tech tip!!
Mmm, just never know what might drop into ones hands smile


1937 Chevy Pickup
In the Gallery
1952 Chevy Panel
In the Gallery
More photos
1950 Chevy Coupe
Pictures!

I'd rather walk and carry a Chevy hub cap than ride in a Ferd.
I can explain it to you, but I can't understand it for you smile
Joined: Nov 1995
Posts: 5,470
Bond Villain
Bond Villain
Joined: Nov 1995
Posts: 5,470
Shoot -- I wish I knew that stuff 2 years ago ... frown

John


~ John

"We are not now that strength which in old days
Moved earth and heaven; that which we are, we are"

1948 International Farmall Super A
1949 Chevrolet 3804
In the Legacy Gallery | In the Gallery Forum
1973 IH 1310 Dump
2001 International/AmTran RE3000 "Skoolie"
2014 Ford E-350 4x4 (Quigley)
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 37
R
Apprentice
Apprentice
R Offline
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 37
Certainly food for thought - nice write up!

I have a little "pucker factor" about shortening the front axel though.

Is this a typical procedure for trucks of this size or larger that being either shortening or repairing?

For instance - would you really want to run your dump truck hauling heavy loads with a welded front axel?


Joined: May 2005
Posts: 8,877
G
.
.
G Offline
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 8,877
Thanks, there certainly is plenty to think about and consider to make these swaps.

About your "pucker factor", It too had that same feeling when I started this project. I tried and measured all the axles I could find, the conclusion was that my only and best option was to narrow one. I looked into it and found very little if any info on doing it. Eventually I found a well known axle shop that commonly "drops" axles, and they were willing to narrow the axle for me, and stand behind it even in a 2 ton truck.
They were a long way away and paying to ship two axles there and back plus there probably reasonable fee added up to a lot.
I decided if they could do it I should be able to find a good welder close to home that can do it too.
A friend of mine is a blacksmith and an excellent welder, he knew exactly what to do and was willing to help. I took all the measurements, cut it and ground the weld prep, then clamped it in position on his welding table. He followed the procedure of pre heating, welding while monitoring the temp, post heat, and slow cool, I chipped slag and wire brushed so the process would go faster.

That first axle went into my 1952 1 ton pickup, which I then had the alignment checked, it was perfect, and the next week a friend and I started out on a little test drive.. 28 days later, and about 8,000 miles we arrived back home, we made stops in CA, Vancouver Island, and Niagara Falls among other places.
The axle performed just fine, absolutely no problems or signs of impending failure.

Also note that the physical size of the new front axle, the I-beam section, is about twice as large and heavy as the original one, this helps to reduce the "pucker factor". Also important is a good weld is stronger than the parent metal.

The first axle swap was a success, and I am 100% happy with the results and confident this is a safe method if carried out carefully.

The second axle swap I did was for a 1961 F350 that has a Detroit diesel 6V53T engine and a Roadranger transmission, lots of front end weight, more than even the original axle wanted. For this one I used the axle form a medium duty Chevy truck, again it is physically much larger than the original. I did all the prep and again my fried welded it for me.
I then took the truck, which weighed 10,000 lb empty, on a cross country trip, to an ATHS show in CO Springs, then on to Idaho to pick up an AD cab, to Washington to pick up a 54 COE, back through Idaho for a 3,000 lb industrial machine, and continued on home. The trucks and load weighed around 23,000 lb. Again, the truck and axle performed flawlessly on about a 7,000 mile trip in less than 2 weeks, half of it with a substantial load.

In summary, I too was concerned about narrowing and axle, I did the research, found someone who knew what to do and how to do it safely, and I have tested two different axles in real working trucks. The first axle is now under my 2 ton, and I will use it as a real work truck, no concerns.

I no longer have hesitations about axle narrowing when done carefully, and plan to do a few more for.

Grigg


1951 GMC 250 in the Project Journals
1948 Chevrolet 6400 - Detroit Diesel 4-53T - Roadranger 10 speed overdrive - 4 wheel disc brakes
1952 Chevrolet 3800 pickup
---All pictures---
"First, get a clear notion of what you desire to accomplish, and then in all probability you will succeed in doing it..." -Henry Maudslay-
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 37
R
Apprentice
Apprentice
R Offline
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 37
Grigg - thanks for the response and the warnings to find a welder who knows what they're up against and why.

Thanks for the great ideas!

Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 44
4
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
4 Offline
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 44
Excellent job on the tech tip Grigg!! Lots of useful information for my project. Thanks.

Bob


Moderated by  69Cuda, Super55 

Link Copied to Clipboard
Home | FAQ | Gallery | Tech Tips | Events | Features | Search | Hoo-Ya Shop
Powered by UBB.threads™ PHP Forum Software 8.0.0
(Release build 20240826)
Responsive Width:

PHP: 8.3.11 Page Time: 5.304s Queries: 14 (0.466s) Memory: 0.6348 MB (Peak: 0.7099 MB) Data Comp: Zlib Server Time: 2025-09-22 04:59:45 UTC
Valid HTML 5 and Valid CSS