The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop What newer frame will fit under my 1950 1 1/2 ton?

I want to take the cab off of the old Chevy 1 1/2 ton frame and put it on a dualie or a regular truck frame? Any suggestions on which ones would be the easiest to convert to?

What do you hope to gain by swapping the frame?
What will you do with the truck?

I don't think I have seen a frame yet that is an ideal swap for an AD big bolt. I think the original frame looks very attractive in comparison to the modern frame swaps I have seen, not only the appearance, but the work involved and the benefits of one over the other.

The original frame is plenty strong, easy to work with, and all the original truck parts bolt to it quite easily, almost like someone planned it that way

Curious what others have to say on this one?

Grigg

I wanted a smaller frame that wieghs less. I want more modern suspension, brakes, power steering and easily available parts. If something were to need replacing I want to run down to any auto parts house and replace it. Not wait for UPS guy to bring it! I have a completely stock 100% original 1951 Ford Custom Club Coupe that everything is ordered for. I also have a 1965 Chevy II Nova that is setup for daily/quarter mile driving. I just want something dependable, safe and fun.

I am interested in what others have to say about this issue as well, I have swapped the frame on my 1 ton witha 78 chevy 1ton frame. The biggest issue that is I had was the radiator fitting with the cbb and the wheel spacing. I think that I have the radiator issue resolved and the wheel spacing under the front fenders really isn't a problem. I am thinking of some ideas that might resolve that but I need to do some measureing on a mid 70's 3/4 ton to make sure it will work. My idea, just to put it out there, is using 3/4 ton front hubs and have a spacer machined to provide adequate back spacing to allow a full turning radius and keep the wheels inside the fender wells.

I have some pics and write up on my truck below(see signature). Follow this http://community.webshots.com/slideshow/568633139UrmOzO?mediaPosition=1 to see the wheel spacing deminsion of my truck. I have measured a 1 1/2 or 2 ton truck and the fenders are bigger but not much if any wider maybe 1/4" too close to determine. My write up states why I chose this route. I have read several different gallery write ups that utilize different methods to upgrade thier truck with suspension,steering and gear ratios that seem to be easier than a frame swap. See this http://www.stovebolt.com/gallery/turner_ricky_1945.html

The biggest thing is like Grigg said how will you use the truck? The anwer will give you a better determination of how you need to build your truck. Good luck and do lots of research.

This is of interest to me too. I don't mind the idea of keeping my frame but the actual driveline would sure be nicer for driving if it was more modern. The biggest headache is the track width. I've been under a 1/2 a dozen trucks with a tape trying to find something that will work or is fairly easily narrowed. So far a '68 Chevy 1 ton is the closest but would still require a lot of work. I'm going to try to find a UPS type delivery to see what its dimensions are.

Rusted, I'd like to know more of your intended use also.

Is your goal something with hauling performance of a 1-1/2 ton truck or a 1/2-ton truck?

Is your truck a 4100 or a 4400? Wheelbase would tell you the difference if you don't know the model. A 4100 is 135 or about that, and a 4400 is 164 or about that. I ask because the 4100 shares many parts with a 1-ton and might open up some other approaches to what you are trying to achive.

As others have suggested, front track is a challenging issue. Most later trucks are either much lighter (like an S-10) or much wider.

I've long felt if I was going to re-engineer part of the truck, that mounting the body seemed less risky than mounting suspension. While there are dangers in both, once you exclude the areas of modification common to both approaches, such as steering and brake controls, changing the body mounts involves stuff much easier to keep an eye on once you start using it.

But that said I'm currently updating suspension on a 1-ton and moving a 1/2-ton to an S-10 chasis, so I've chosen to try both.

If commonly available parts are the big concern, I think that is still achievable with the original frame and only drive-train and or axle swaps.
That's the approach I have taken, the original parts on my truck can be counted on one hand.. Frame, Cab/sheet metal, steering wheel, pedals + brake lever, and the rear axle spring saddles. Everything else is newer, most importantly the front and rear axle, engine and transmission, and the steering and brake systems. I can get all the common replaceable mechanical parts at a regular auto parts store with minimal if any delay. The remaining original parts I may not find so easily are all related to the cab, I see no problems there.
If you still like this approach you would need to consider the original springs and hardware. The springs I used were custom made, although I only really needed the fronts custom to make the chosen axle work. I used the original style spring pins and bushings which are still available from most spring shops, I had no problems getting new ones and they did not come from one of the antique parts catalogs.
One downside you may bring up: is the parts are all available, but only if you remember what they were originally from, that's where good notes come in. If you swap a whole rolling chassis the note taking is much simpler..

Back to your original frame, if you have a short wheelbase (137") 1.5 ton, a model 4100, then the frame is almost identical to a 1 ton frame. Only difference I can find is the way the front bumper mounts, otherwise same thickness and channel size. Is this light enough for you? If you want lighter then you will probably end up with smaller wheels and tires, which may look out of place in the big truck fenders, at which point you would want small truck front sheet metal. If you go so far as to swap to a smaller frame and front sheet metal you may as well have started out with a smaller truck in the beginning.

If you have the long wheelbase (161") 1.5 ton, model 4400, then the frame is the same as under a 2 ton of the same wheelbase, a good bit heavier than the 1 ton.

What will you do with the truck?

Grigg

I want a truck I can use as a daily driver. The more I read your input guys I think I might try it out. Maybe I'll keep my frame just change the drive train and axles. I want it lighter and a bit less of a gas hog. I just recently got the truck outta a local junk yard. It called out to me! I believe its the longer wheel based model. I haven't measured it yet. But its longer then my work van which is a Ford F-250. The lugs are six huge lugs. There is no tranny in it at the moment. I'll start this project as soon as I gathered enough ideas from the guys like you who know the trials I'll face. Thank you all for any given or to be given advice.

Is this a GMC? 6 lugs would be somewhat unusual, but not out of place, probably "Moror Wheels".

Let's see some pictures.

Grigg

I apologize for no pics yet. Let me be more clear about the truck. It has 5 lugs on the front wheels and six lugs on the duals out back. If I were to keep the frame and replace the axles with 1 tons of a newer year. Which might work best? It would be a daily driver. No need to haul tremendous loads or go 4X4ing with. I want a truck that turns heads yet functions without worry. I do like the long bed I saw in the above photos.

The front sounds like it could be original, the rear is either from a newer truck, or an uncommon GMC of about the same age. Does the rear have GMC on the cover?

If replacing axles then the P30 axles with the original 5/10 lugs would be ideal. If you wanted lighter then I have seen a few 8 lug I-beam axles with disc brakes under some step vans, but they are difficult to find. The P-30 with 5/10 lugs are easy to find. The rear axle swap is quite simple. The front axle swap is quite difficult, as it needs to be cut and narrowed to fit under the fenders. Check out the pictures in my webshots album, link below.

Grigg

Grigg is right, that five-lug, six-lug combo isn't stock. If its a Chevy the rear has been replaced. Really not a rare thing for an old working truck.

I'd suggest replacing the rear with a 10-lug from a later truck.

The front is harder and you either have a challenge swapping an axle Grigg's way, or a challenge converting to disks, or running old drums.

You might find simply rebuilding the stock front brakes using metalic shoes will do the job just fine if you have a good booster.

The dualie rear end has a gigantic 2 speed pumpkin. It has no Chevy markings that I can see. The engine has the GMC script on the valve cover. I bought this truck very recently from a salvage yard. It was only $400.00. The cab and front sheet metal are in decent shape with little rust in bottom corner of cab. The only info I have on it so far is the sales receipt listing it as a 1950 Chevy 1.5 ton. No emblems other then Chevorlet on the nose. I need to figure out how to get my pics on here for you guys to see? I do believe I'll keep the frame. Just change the rear axle and maybe rebuild the front as suggested. You guys are great thank you all very much. Any info on where to get parts for this beast would help also. I've built my 1965 quarter mile Chevy II Nova and then restored a 51 Ford Custome Coupe. This will be my first old truck project. I'm looking forward to it!