Labor Day Putting down your wrenches or time for MORE wrenching? 
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Oct 2008 Posts: 32 Apprentice | | Apprentice Joined: Oct 2008 Posts: 32 | I took the starter off my '50 to see why it wasn't working. The copper blocks inside the switch were worn down too much to make contact. Looks like I have to buy a new switch. In the picture, you'll see another starter I have. It was on a '48 1ton w/216 I had & unfortunately sold. I bench tested on 6v & 12v (I unhooked the solenoid) and it seemed to spin the same as the other starter. So I'm assuming 6v? What vehicle had 6v w/soleniod? It doesn't have the same holes in the body so it isn't just converted. http://i448.photobucket.com/albums/qq201/Neo50/002.jpghttp://i448.photobucket.com/albums/qq201/Neo50/003-2.jpgScott
Last edited by Neo '50 3100; 10/23/2008 7:19 AM.
| | | | | Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 9,671 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 9,671 | Scott, those copper blocks are the brushes, I would suggest just taking the original starter to a starter/generator shop and having the comutator turned and new brushes installed, shouldn't cost you all that much and then you will have a reliable starter in your truck. Look in the phone book there should be one near you. Denny Graham Sandwich, IL
Denny G Sandwich, IL
| | | | | Joined: Mar 2004 Posts: 874 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2004 Posts: 874 | Cars had 6v solenoid starters. | | | | | Joined: Oct 2008 Posts: 32 Apprentice | | Apprentice Joined: Oct 2008 Posts: 32 | I guess I figured that cars had foot starters until they went 12v. I need to check out some 40's & 50's cars. Have to wait for a car show. I haven't seen any running around that are close to stock. Denny, thanks for replying, but it's not the brushes. The starter turns over fine. I hooked up a battery & hit the foot pedal. Nothing. Then I removed the starter & took the switch off. The copper blocks inside were wore down enough that the linkage wasn't pushing the rod down far enough to make contact. In the picture you'll see that the PO had added metal to the arm to compensate. I'm guessing that the engine was hard to start & he kept the starter engaged too long.
Thanks, Scott | | | | | Joined: Mar 2004 Posts: 874 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2004 Posts: 874 | I believe 6v solenoid starters were an available option on some trucks as well. Not sure of the first year it was offered. | | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 Bubba - Curmudgeon | | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 | 6v solenoid starters were used in hydra-matic equipped 1953 GMCs and in hydra-matic equipped 1954 Chevrolet trucks. 6v solenoid starters were also used in double-duty and maybe COE trucks as early as 1948. http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/1929_57chevyparts/57cmpc0201.htmThe 6v hydra-matic starters had different drive-end housings, so they might not be a straight bolt-on with manual transmission flywheels - maybe someone will post information about this? Tim | | | | | Joined: Mar 2004 Posts: 874 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2004 Posts: 874 | A solenoid starter is listed as RPO 327 for 1953 Chevrolet trucks. It is unclear as to what models this was offered on. Info is from Standard Catalog of Chevrolet Trucks | | | | | Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 9,671 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 9,671 | Ok, now you’re talking about the contacts. When you buy a new switch (they are cheap) it will have a new contact. The one in the housing is split and has the coil leads soldered into it and you will need to use a small torch to remove them. You need to be very, repeat, very careful so you don't damage the insulation on the coil so you need to heat sink the leads. Then you will need to clean the threads of solder before you can get the nut off and remove the contact. There is no adjustment on the stroke. If it's not pushing the switch in far enough to make contact after replacing the contacts then chances are the linkage has worn or is bent and needs to be built back up by welding or straightened. Ken can fix you up with the contact and switch. [email protected] Denny Graham Sandwich, IL
Last edited by Denny Graham; 10/23/2008 11:54 PM.
Denny G Sandwich, IL
| | | | | Joined: Oct 2008 Posts: 32 Apprentice | | Apprentice Joined: Oct 2008 Posts: 32 | Denny, thanks for the info. I'll get the parts from Ken. I wasn't sure what to do about the contact in the housing. Sounds like that shouldn't be too hard.
Tim, thanks for that link. I found what it was off of. solenoid: 54-55 Comm w/H.T. 6v 1118135 motor: 49-55 Comm, Util. 6v (exc.H.T., D.D.) 1107108
The motor on mine is 1107109, so maybe that signified a change for Hydramatic. This starter was on a 216 or maybe babbit 235?(not original engine to truck) w/SM420.
I learn something new everyday. Thanks, Scott
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