The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop wick vs. rubber rear main seal?

I'm assembling my 235. I received both the wick and rubber rear main seals in the gasket set. I tried putting the wick seal in following the guide in the manual. It was a challenge and a lot of wick still protuded from the groove (not talking about the ends). I just slipped the rubber on in. I liked the rubber one better because it was easier. Anybody have some experience either way on this seal. How much is supposed to protrude out the groove?
Also, the Motor manual talks about placing more than one gasket behind the front end plate so that timing gears are at same level. Has anyone ever had to do that?

We used to have a piece of pipe the about the same diameter as the crank journal and tap the rope seal into the block and the bearing cap with a small hammer. We then cut the excess of with a razor blade. Make sure you don't leave any strands loose to get between the bearing cap and the block, or you will get a false torque reading when you torque the main.

I tried the wick seal one more time. It went in with some work but finally got it in. When I torqued the cap on, I could not even turn the crank. So I gave up and went to the more modern rubber seal. The crank turns just as smooth as it is supposed to. Does anybody still use the rope wicks with success.

I don't think the rope and the rubber seal are interchangeable. You get both seals in the gasket set so you can use whichever one fits the rear main cap and the block.

It's not uncommon to have a little drag on the crank with a newly-installed rope seal. It "wears-in" very quickly, forming itself into a leakproof fit to the crankshaft. It wouldn't surprise me if you get a big leak from using a rubber seal where a rope should be.
Jerry