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| | Forums66 Topics126,780 Posts1,039,296 Members48,100 | Most Online2,175 Jul 21st, 2025 | | | Joined: May 2007 Posts: 25 Apprentice | Apprentice Joined: May 2007 Posts: 25 | I have a 1950 AD truck and I was doing a trans on it (well not really me, I have a mechanic friend’s help). I had a later great condition 10” flywheel and we thought of using it instead of the 9”. But when we tried to install the throw-out bearing, the distance is too far from the pressure plate which would not leave much adjustment. What am I/we doing wrong? Even the mechanic and parts shops are at a loss.
The old one worked when I took it out, I don’t think anything was bent - so is this not interchangeable? Thanks for any help - I searched the forums and it seems it should work, I just did not find this issue.
1950 AD Chevy 235 - 3 on the tree - straight pipe & cherry bomb - baaaam bam bam bam bam I am no mechanic, but I am going to try on this one!
| | | | Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 5,708 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 5,708 | mamboitaliano,
You must be referring to the clutch and pressure plate...huh! There are two different types of release fingers on the pressure plates that may require you to use a long or short throwout bearing, but any two 'flywheels' wouldn't differ enough in thickness to be noticeable.
Flywheels can be drilled for different size clutch assemblies, and some are drilled to accept several sizes.
Maybe I don't understand the question.
Stuart
| | | | Joined: Dec 2003 Posts: 2,733 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Dec 2003 Posts: 2,733 | I don't understand why you want to change it. You don't mention any problems with the original so why? Hope you not caught up in the "bigger is better" syndrome - because usually it isn't. | | | | Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 28,675 Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) | Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 28,675 | If you're using a flywheel from an engine with a 12 volt starter, you're also going to have to replace the starter drive gear. So far as the throwout bearing adjustment goes, you're probably going to have to install the TO bearing with the longer dimension from the fork to the bearing face. Unless you have a reason to need the heavy duty clutch, it's just creating more work, and a parts chasing nightmare for the next guy who buys clutch parts for that rig. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
| | | | Joined: May 2007 Posts: 25 Apprentice | Apprentice Joined: May 2007 Posts: 25 | Thanks for the replies so far: maybe to make things clearer.
1. I used the 10” flywheel because it was in great condition and serviceable. My 9” was in terrible so this was, we thought, the smart choice. I wasn’t going for the bigger is better - but the “I got it and it’s cheaper”. But it is making it so much harder for us yes.
2. Stuart - yes on your question. When the clutch and pressure plate are installed, the distance from the fork and the TO is too far, by a good ½ to ¾ inches. It would leave no room for adjustment. We are told we have the “long” TO and there is no other. Now if there is a flywheel with taller release fingers that would solve my issue - but which one and where. The one we got in the kit the fingers are relatively flat when torqued down.
3. My truck was already converted so I “hope” that I don’t have another issue. ;-)
Again, thanks so much for you all’s wisdom!~
Rino
1950 AD Chevy 235 - 3 on the tree - straight pipe & cherry bomb - baaaam bam bam bam bam I am no mechanic, but I am going to try on this one!
| | | | Joined: Jun 2004 Posts: 8,597 Riding in the Passing Lane | Riding in the Passing Lane Joined: Jun 2004 Posts: 8,597 | If the fingers are flat when tightened down you have the original style clutch pressure plate. It must use the long TO brg. There should be a space about 1/2 to 3/4 in. from the groove to the back of the brg. If the groove is right in back of the rear of the brg it is the wrong one. Did the brg. come in the kit? They say money can't buy happiness. It can buy old Chevy trucks though. Same thing. 1972 Chevy c10 Cheyenne SuperIn the Gallery Forum | | | | Joined: May 2007 Posts: 25 Apprentice | Apprentice Joined: May 2007 Posts: 25 | Wrenchbender, the TO brg came with the kit and measures the same as the ones on the chevy sites. I believe it was 1 and ⅞. The guy helping me has worked on a lot of older cars. He seems to remember a TO that was a bit longer, but we cannot find one.
1950 AD Chevy 235 - 3 on the tree - straight pipe & cherry bomb - baaaam bam bam bam bam I am no mechanic, but I am going to try on this one!
| | | | Joined: Nov 2000 Posts: 582 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Nov 2000 Posts: 582 | Had a similar problem when I went to put a new PP, disc and TO bearing in my '49 GMC which has a 261 in it. Perhaps something on my webshots album (link below) addressing the clutch problem I had may help you. I ended up getting everything from NAPA but had to figure it out and it was frustrating to say the least with pulling the tranny out more than once. | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,262 Bubba - Curmudgeon | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,262 | Yes, there are at least two different-length throwout bearings for the 216/235/261 clutch/flywheel assemblies. http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/1929_57chevyparts/57cmpc0151.htmIf you can read the lengths in the Master Parts Book, above, you should be able to see which one is the one you have, and if the other one is long enough to solve your problem. | | | | Joined: Nov 2000 Posts: 700 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Nov 2000 Posts: 700 | Interesting this question came up again as it is basically the same one I had planed on seeking an answer to this morning. Can anyone source the "Longer" TO bearing?
In another post I described my trials and tribulations with the clutch clinkity clinkity sound and it turned out to the worn alignment slots in the "New" pressure plate. While shopping for a new pressure plate I inquired about a longer TO bearing but no one seemed to know about one. What I reinstalled was a Delco CT22-1 908092 New Departure Hyatt Bearing "Division of General Motors Corp." There is also a magic marker # B41R-7 on the box.
The new bearing was the same length as the old one 1-7/8". Although the clinkity noise is gone I have no adjustment left in the linkage and would like to install the "longer" TO bearing when I PULL THE ENGINE AGAIN to hopefully fix the leaking rear seal.
Now, I don't mind browsing the parts books but if someone has already sourced a bearing it would remove some guesswork.
Don My 1941 in the Stovebolt Gallery My Photo AlbumBut I tried, didn't I? ... At least I did that. RP McMurphy The past belongs to the future...but only the present can preserve it. Besides the noble art of getting things done, there is a nobler art of leaving things undone. | | | | Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 28,675 Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) | Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 28,675 | You keep referring to "release fingers" on the flywheel. A flywheel is a big flat thing with a starter ring gear on it.
Did you indeed change the flywheel, or are you talking about the pressure plate- - - -the thing that bolts onto the flywheel? There are two distinct designs of pressure plate, one with a spring that the throwout bearing contacts that is flat when bolted on, and another with fingers that protrude back toward the TO bearing. The flat-finger pressure plate uses a long TO bearing, the other one uses a short one.
There is another design of pressure plate that uses 3 lever arms, called a Borg & Beck design. These are usually used on Ford and other non-GM applications. If you've got one of them, all bets are off, because you've got a non-stock setup. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
| | | | Joined: Feb 2008 Posts: 130 Wrench Fetcher | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Feb 2008 Posts: 130 | On a side note---what holds the throwout bearing centered on the input shaft? As far as I can see it is held kind of loosely in the fork and can flop to one side and maybe rub on the input shaft when it is not depressed thus causing noise. | | | | Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 5,708 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 5,708 | Davy,
The front bearing retainer is the guide for the throwout bearing. The bearing fits nicely around the OD of the retainer.
Stuart | | | | Joined: Feb 2008 Posts: 130 Wrench Fetcher | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Feb 2008 Posts: 130 | Hmm, that makes perfect sense--trouble is my retainer seems to not be very long and the TO bearing is on it;s own part of the time--. I better look in to a longer retainer. My clutch is from a '56 but the tranny is a '34 three speed. Thanks alot ---davy | | | | Joined: Jul 2007 Posts: 224 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Jul 2007 Posts: 224 | i put a thick washer under the fork ball because of the geometry it gave me close to 1\2 inch of adjustment sure was nice and cheap. philip | | |
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