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#449671 09/06/2008 4:33 PM
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 428
J
'Bolter
'Bolter
J Offline
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 428
Hi everybody. I am getting ready to weld in some patches on the toe board, so I am looking for advice on the gap between the patch and the intact metal. Is it better to have a very close fitting patch, or is it better to leave a say 1/16 th inch gap all the way around? I have a Hobart handler 187 MIG welder that I bought last year. I plan on using sheilding gas, and .23 fluxless wire. I am self taught and have done a fair amount of welding at work and at home, but not on anything this light gauge. So any tips or hints would be greatly appreciated, Jimmie.

Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 2,393
D
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
D Offline
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 2,393
Butt welding at 1/16 is fine or you can over lap if you like as long as the older metal is ground clean in the area of the weld. Stitch weld the panel about an inch apart giving the metal a little time to cool so it doesn't warp. Fill in later alternating spots as you go.Also grind offany paint on the new panel in the weld area,especially if it's off shore black.

Last edited by DrewP; 09/06/2008 5:03 PM.

Drew
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 428
J
'Bolter
'Bolter
J Offline
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 428
DrewP, Thanks for the response. I plan to but weld most of the patches. I think it will make for a cleaner job in the long run (less bondo) if I but weld. There are a couple of places I will probably have to overlap and weld in. Thanks again Jimmie.

Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 946
J
'Bolter
'Bolter
J Offline
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 946
It might help to have a copper backing plate to back up your welding, they sell them at Eastwoodco.com. If I had this at the time I was trying to weld my floor panels in, I might have been successful. Instead, I had a pro do it, I mean fix it.

Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 324
V
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
V Offline
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 324
If anyone is interested I had some fun making my own welding jigs. Check out the link below & you can see how easy they are to make.
"Buttweld clamps" Most of the materials can be found at any hardware store. I already had most of these in the shop. The copper stock came from old discarded electrical house panels bought at a scrap yard for $10.00! I used the copper bussbars found inside. Approximately 1/4"Thick x 1 1/2" wide & about 2ft long. I made 6 pcs 4" long ea. I know these are thicker than they need to be, but who cares they work real good.
I think the fact that we became Bolters makes us want to do our thing. This is the fun stuff.

http://s150.photobucket.com/albums/s107/vickraft/weldingjigs/

Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 121
5
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
5 Offline
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 121
i just got done welding my toe board in on my truck i used a 1/16 gap. be sure to let it coll as you go and stich in like the other guys said. mine warped i used to long of stitches. good luck


gotta love old trucks
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 403
D
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
D Offline
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 403
Fellows to keep from warping go down to the welding supply and get some Heat Fence to absorb the heat off the welds. I like the paste type the best but they have tape also.
Don
62Blue


62Blue
62Chevy in progress
You've never been lost until you've been lost at Mach3" Paul F Crichmore (Test Pilot)
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 428
J
'Bolter
'Bolter
J Offline
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 428
Guys thanks for all the helpfull info. I got a patch about 3 x 4 inches welded in today. Not the best job of welding, but it is done. I think that first thing in the morning I will make up some of those but weld clamps. (thanks for the photos vickraft) Don, do the welding shops in your area carry Heat Fence? On my lunch hour I ran over to the shop I usually get my supplies at, and they had never heard of heat fence. I may have to take you up on your offer to send me some. I will check at the other 4 shops here in town, and let you know. Jimmie.


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