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Joined: May 2004
Posts: 105
M
'Bolter
'Bolter
M Offline
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 105
I have a 1950 3/4 ton with a one barrel Rochester carb. I just took it apart and need a little help.

I removed the "guide" for the pump discharge ball. It was a brass fitting that, from the side, looks like a "T". The top of it is round and has a line which appeared to be for a screwdriver for removal purposes. When installed in the carb, it completely covers the whole it was installed in.

Well, I twisted it loose and it wasn't screwed-in afterall. It was pressed in. When I twisted it, it broke. Underneath is a spring and ball.

The kit has a replacement but it is a flat piece of metal shaped like a "T". Although nothing like the original, I assume I should press this in like the original. Since it is flat, when installed, it won't cover the whole. It will only retain the spring and ball.

Is this the correct procedure? The directions mention nothing about this.

Second question. I had a difficult time removing the balls in the carb because of the dirt. Looks like there is one for the power valve and one for the pump discharge. The kit has 3 balls. Two of a smaller size and one larger. Which ones go where and is the third one needed?

Thanks for any help you can give.

Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 259
C
Member
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C Offline
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 259
I show 3 check balls in the carburetor:

One for the Power Valve Assembly Appears small to me. Another for the Inlet of the accelerator pump well which is also small in size. The last one looks bigger than the other two in my picture and it's for the Accelerator Pump discharge.

Test the accelerator pump and correct check ball placement for the accelerator pump circuit by pouring some fuel in the bowl and installing the accelerator pump in the well. Press down slowly and fuel should pump out the port and not reverse flow and go back into the fuel bowl. The accelerator pump well should also refill for the next squirt...just a little test for ya before you button it all up.

Oh yeah....the Brass "T" that holds down the spring against the discharge check ball just needs to be staked down to the bowl so it stays put. Just lightly tap the casting to swedge the "T" in place.


Joe
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 105
M
'Bolter
'Bolter
M Offline
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 105
Thank you both! That really helps me out.

Do you happen to know the title of the book you have or know where I could buy one? That would be very helpful in rebuilding carbs. I have never seen one that detailed.

Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 2,766
C
Carburetion specialist
Carburetion specialist
C Offline
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 2,766
The brass guide which is round with the slot was used in the 1950 carburetors. 1951 and newer carburetors use the "T" shaped guide (there are two different of the "T" shaped ones). This is one of the problems with the "one kit fits all, but doesn't fit any correctly". The proper kit should have the correct guide.

"Rochester Carburetors" by Doug Roe and Bill Fischer, published by HP Books has a small section on the Rochester type B. The original Rochester type B service manuals, while obsolete, are still available from some sources. Try a search on the internet; watch ebay, check swap meets. For the type B, these are better than the Doug Roe book. For later two barrels and four barrels, the Doug Roe book is required reading.

Jon.


Good carburetion is fuelish hot air
The most expensive carburetor is the wrong one you attempt to modify.
If you truly believe "one size fits all," try walking a mile in your spouse's shoes!
The Carburetor Shop
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 105
M
'Bolter
'Bolter
M Offline
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 105
You said in your post that the 1950 carb had the brass guide and that the kits have two types of “T”s. Can you tell me if I have the correct one? The kit didn’t come with a brass guide. Rather it came with a “T” Is this what I should use? Is there a kit available that has the brass guide?


Moderated by  Phak1, Woogeroo 

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