The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The Electrical Bay Bad Turn Signal Flasher???

Ok, I'm getting into my turn signals, trying to fix them up in the mean time before I can fix my breaks. I checked power from the ignition switch to the flasher, which was supposed to be hooked to the ammeter through a fuse, and there was no power, so I just went ahead and cut the wire from the ignition switch and connected it to the ammeter so it will be correct and could eliminate the bad terminal on the key switch. It still is not getting power to the turn signal switch though. I haven't checked to see if power is getting to the fuse yet though after I rerouted it. If power is getting through the fuse then it means that the wire to the flasher is bad then, right?

PS: This is a Signal Stat 900 model.

Hey JDL,The signal Stat model 900 gets its power from the ampmeter through a fuse, then through the flasher to the yellow wire (L) on the signal switch. To check for a bad flasher, just jump the flasher plug out with a short wire or paper clip. Your signals will work as steady lights (not flashing). Hope this helps.

Thank you!!! It must be the flasher, or after it, and if it is, it is between the wire and the signal switch or the switch itself, because the fuse and both wires connected to the fuse are good. I checked them.

The flasher is bad it seems. Is the green(? I forget if that is the color but I'm pretty sure it is) wire from the flasher supposed to go to something? And also, turnsignal switch seems to be bad or broken somehow, no lights work when electricity is applied, whether the park lights(converted to signals) or the lights on the model. Anyone know where to get another one or know where to get this one fixed. I don't know why but I would rather get this one to work then to get a different one.

Ok, just today I got the idea to check for power to the park lights(converted to turn signals) at the connector block on the firewall. With out jumping the wires, no power goes to the block/lights, but by jumping them, I get power. I also removed the park lights, since they weren't doing anything. They were not burnt out, but were so corroded that I had to dig one of them out.


Anyone know what the numbers are for the lights and where can I get a flasher? I would think that Napa has them but not sure.

jdl, Just went through hooking up my new turn signal switch for my truck this evening. I had checked all my lights back in the spring, but have found that most lost the ground after I had worked on them. If you have a test light, Find a hot lead and connect a wire to a lead off of a light fixture. I found that these lights ground themselves to the truck chassis and truck bodies. If you can run a hot wire to each light fixture and ground it, you should be able to make the light work. Once you get the light fixtures grounded and working, you may find it easier to get things working. My flasher did not flash till I hooked up a light to it. What I figured out is that the flasher needed a bulb to complete the circuit so it would flash.

Hey Mike, I'm not reading your post very clearly, don't know what it is but I think I got the basic idea. But, I do know that my flasher is totally fried, its terminals are rusted up and it jingles like a bad light bulb when you shake it.

Jim Carter and other vendors sell 6 volt flashers in 2 prong or 3 prong.
Cleon

Napa sells 3 prong flashers for 6 volt for $10.00. I'm going to 12v since my starter/generator and just about every other thing is in less than great shape, so they won't be reliable when it is a daily driver. I have a 2 prong 12v flasher, which means that I won't be able use the directional lights on the switch, but then again that wire is cut so....


Also, will a Signal Stat 900 handle 12v or will it fry??? I think I was told it would but can't remember and don't want to risk it.

the signal unit itself is just wires and a switch, doesn't care about voltage as long as you have a 12v flasher and bulbs

Bill

Okay, what about the little bulbs in the switch that tell you which side is flashing? I have no idea if they would happen to be 6v, 12v, and if/how they would be changed.

I'd think you could figure out how to get the cover off and check the number on the bulb .... or just get a 12V bulb to fit if you're going 12V [good idea ] ... and in case you haven't seen it, there's a tip about the sig stat here, as well as a wiring diagram here that you can save to your 'puter

Bill

Hadn't seen the diagram, it sure will help. I have posted that I am seriously thinking about going 12v for at least the time that I will be driving the truck everyday.

Ok, the number is 51. I never realized how simple that thing is. Just some mechanicals, a clip with a bulb, and a few wires. Mysteriously, I also found the remainder of the blue "pilot" wire that had been cut and missing stuffed inside of the switch. Just a few inches left. I have no idea why it would be cut off, do any of you?

if the wire to the flasher was cut off, it musta been not working right [maybe stuck?] and someone decided to just skip signaling a number 51 bulb is 6V [actually 7.5, so it'll last longer on 6], so you'll have to find the equivelent in a 12V

Bill

Don't know, it all seems right, nothing is messed up that I can tell, unless they got shocked each time they tried to signal? Whatever the case, it will get hooked back up, maybe, if it works. That bulb is on all the time isn't it(when it has power)?

the bulb in the sig stat should flash when the signal is used

Bill

What about when it is in the middle? It has that red lens, seems that it would be kinda dumb for the company to put it there and not use it for something.

Some signalstat switches had a flasher switch on them. The same faceplate may be used on all.

A '54 dash has the sockets for in-dash indicators. Yours may already have the bulbs hooked up. Maybe that's why the PO terminated the pilot wire. And if so, you can use a 2 prong flasher.

Cletis, interesting. Where would those happen to be?