The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Valve Adjustment on a 235

Just got the head back on the 61 Apache and got it running again. Time to adjust the valves. I was told you can do this with the engine running by having one person use the feeler gauge and the other person loosening the nut and turning the adjuster until it just starts to grab the gauge. Anyone out there ever done it this way? Also, on the 235, does anyone know---from front to rear---which are exhaust and which are intake, along with the clearances? Sure would appreciate the help!

If you have a 1961 engine, it will have hydraulic lifters, I would think and you do not adjust them with feeler gauges. If you have solid lifters, you adjust with feeler gauges but not with the engine running.

I have a 235 w/ hydraulic lifters (1954 car), so I think we have the same basic motor.

The Valves number (from car front) #1 Exhaust, #1 Intake - #2 ... and so forth.

If you DO have the hydraulic lifters, the book says adjust while running. Turn until valve lash is removed, then 1 1/2 turns more. This puts the adjustment about 1/2 way into the lifter travel.

If you have a stuck lifter, this adjustment MIGHT cause the cylinder to loose compression (happened to me recently). In that case, adjust that valve to lash just removed.

When I first had my car, I couldn't find the correct procedure and ran for several years with all valves adjusted to the 'lash just removed'. power was fine, only a little more clicking from the motor.

Hey Jgalt,

Does your sedan have a 'glide in it? The glide cars had hyd lifters, the stick cars had solids. But by '61 the majority of 235s had hyd lifters, usually regardless of application.

I cut and pasted Racecarl's method for doing this on solid lifters and this has worked good for me on both 216's and 235's.

Ken

General (Engine NOT running) -- "I have a trick I use every day at work to set valves on inline 6 cyl. motors. Chevrolet and John Deere firing orders are the same: 153642. Set the motor to fire on #1. Set the lash on 1E, 1I, 2I, 3E, 4I and 5E. Then rotate crankshaft one revolution. #6 should be in firing position. Set lash on #6E, 6I, 5I, 4E, 3I, 2E. Your valves are all set, and it only took about 5 or 10 minutes. Remember exhaust valves are on the ends of the head, and they look different than intake valves, so it is easy to identify the valves for cyls. 2,3,4,5.

Racecarl

I have done it both ways on the 235 in my 37,hot and off and with it running at a slower than normal idle. The valves made less noise after adjusting with the engine running but it will bend up the feeler gauge.

When I do hydraulics, if I am going to set them down 1 1/2, I will usually go down a little bit further to make sure it doesn't stick or bottom out, then back off to the 1 1/2. You will find that as you start to turn it down, the engine will miss for a second until the lifter gets rid of the excess oil. It is a very messy procedure and you can get oil all over the place.

I should watch my typing better, especially when leaving a tech tip. The correct firing order for the Chevy 6 cylinder is 153624. Sorry for any confusion this may have caused.

I recited to my wife how I remembered what order to put the spark plug wires in the distributor . . . she didn't think it was very funny. I didn't even notice that the order in your tech tip was wrong - after I remembered the ditty using the right order

Thanks for all the info----we'll be cruisin this weekend. :p

I adjusted my hydraulics 1 turn after they stopped tapping instead of 1 1/2 turns. I also am only getting 90 lbs of compression, as opposed to the manual's recommended 130 lbs. Could this be caused by not adjusting the valves enough?

My vote would be absolutely not as the cause. 1 Turn, 1 1/2, 3/4, is just postioning it in the lifter bore. The lifter does the rest.