The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Carter YF Assembly - I think this thing is screwed up

I didn't pay much attention when I took the carburetor apart as I assumed it would be pretty easy to figure out when it went back together. Well, I have run into something that is less than obvious.

First of all, the accelerator pump is connected to the linkage so that it is fully compressed when the butterflies are closed - this seems backwards to me, but the metering rod is connected to the same plunger mechanism and it is fully closed at idle and fully open at full throttle so it must be right.

I don't have a digital camera handy otherwise I would post a picture, but the spring arrangement on the accelerator pump seems all screwed up. If assembled according to drawings, the accelerator pump is run by the spring action and the linkage only allows the accel pump rod to come up (the linkage is not attached to the rod / only presses down on it when going to an idle). This seems like a lame way to get positive displacement from the pump when stepping on the accelerator.

I moved the spring to between the bottom of the accelerator linkage and a keeper location on the rod and this seems a lot more positive as the rod is not locked to the linkage under tension - in this configuration it works really well, except that the spring is now compressed to the point of being rediculous. I am tempted to button it up and see how it works . . . it is easy to see how the metering rod would never fully seat at idle when assembled the other way - this could explain the way-to-rich idle setting before I took it apart.

Any Carter YF Experts out there?

Isn't the Carter YF a F O R D carburetor? :confused:

I always thought that too . . . but the YF is listed as applied to Chevrolet 6's from 1937 to the late 50's and a Carter is detailed in the 48..51 Chevy Truck Shop manual, but NOT the YF model. I put it together and it started right up, no longer runs rich and accel pump seems to work good. . . still back fires through the carb though. Time to check valve timing - wish I had a dial indicator!

i know this carb overhaul but can't see it in my mind. put a few together wrong but its easy to fix ,the linkage under the float bowl is the key to getting it right but i think you have that right.i would have to see it to repair but that is a simple carb (not trying to be insulting)when the linkage moves the metering rod up the accel. pump will be depressed. if the spring on the accel.pump is compressed somethig is wrong. this is the only thing that i can think of that will cause this problem.your overhaul instructions may be difficult to figure out but i think some trial and error will get it right

I rebuilt a Carter YF from our AMC Hornet in 1977. I had screws left over and my wife and daughter still don't let me forget it. Can't remember enough to help you.

I think that what you are saying about the pump is true for the YF. I know it was used by Willys on the Flathead 226 6 cylinder.

Ken, sorry I didn't get to you earlier but I spend most of my time in the lounge-LOL. I'm wondering which spring you are talking about. There (as I remember) only two coil type springs for the ACC. pump. The diaphragm spring and the upper pump spring and a little keeper spring for the metering rod. The pump lifter link doesn't have a spring, as I recall. I have rebuilt many of these for 226 Super Hurricanes. Some were in Ramblers also. But if you have it together correct and running I would guess you now don't need anymore info. Once again sorry for be a little late- Next time I'll try moving faster-LOL

Well, I know the carb isn't put together like it shows in the diagram, but the accel pump / metering rod don't work if assembled per diagram and they work pretty well assembled the Ken Brown way - although I have to admit it is somewhat cheesewhizzed together. I hauled 5 loads of dirt tonight after work at about 3 yards a load. The truck ran pretty well - but I think it is now a little lean. Rugo has a "professionally rebuilt" Carter YF we are going to tear apart and look at what is different.

Also, one of my valves starting clacking again tonight. The #5 intake valve now has way too much lash? Could a piece of crap get between the pushrod and lifter? This is the pushrod that was way too tight over the weekend and wouldn't let the intake close all the way causing backfires through the carb?

Is your rocker arm worn out so that it wore a groove in the rocker shaft and is jumping around and changing the lash?

Ken,
Try these links: carb documents on the CJ3b page and YF overhaul tips

If the pushrod is bent it will change lash settings as it rotates.

Josiah, thanks for the CJ-3B link. I have my dad's 53 CJ-3B that he bought new in 53. Once again thank you.

Josiah . . . that carb page is really good! I like the picture of the hammer pounding on the carb and the guy's description of what a pain the metering rod / accelerator pump was to set up, made me feel a lot better! I'll print out the sheets and see how it is supposed to be done.

As far as the #5 intake goes, I didn't pull the pushrod out like I did on the #1 cylinder, but I did rotate it and it appeared to be straight, I am going to pull it out and see if the end is round like it should be or if it is all beat to heck. I am amazed at how much more power the old 216 has with the carb rebuild and valves properly adjusted. . . I am backing UP a hill with 6000 - 7000 pounds in the bed and it doesn't even grunt!

You're welcome, Ken and Oly. I used to have a '55 CJ5, and I found that page very valuable. The owner updates it every couple of weeks. It is the standard by which I compare every other vehicle website.
Unfortunately, I had to give up the 5 because I don't have much space on my property, but I want a flatfender Willys again someday, an MB or a 2a or a 3a or 3b. My 5 had a 225 Buick V6 transplanted into it. It was fun but I needed a hauler as a third vehicle and the stovebolt called to me. I have a dirt bike for my offroad travels anyway. Oly, I would love to see your 3b sometime.