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#43673 05/22/2003 3:11 PM | Joined: May 2003 Posts: 22 Junior Member | Junior Member Joined: May 2003 Posts: 22 | I have my "50 1/2 ton up on blocks and I've noticed a small puddle of radiator fluid. It looks like the water's coming from the middle of the block. There are some kind of water plugs there. Is this going to be a big problem or is it a common ailment.
'50, '59, 1/2T, GMC
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#43674 05/22/2003 10:38 PM | Joined: Jul 2001 Posts: 140 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Jul 2001 Posts: 140 | Those plugs are called freeze plugs. In the event that the coolent freezes in the engine, the plugs are popped out as the ice expands in the block. It keeps the block from cracking. If that is where the water is coming from, you will have to change the plug. But, I recommend that you change all of them. If that one is popped, there could possibly be others that have also done so. The other possiblility is that the block is cracked and is leaking fluid. But, I would bet on the freeze plugs.
Jonathan S. Keffer
Certified Yeti Trainer
Richard Roy Schlicht- Good Grandfather, Veteran Wrench Turner...
"If it ain't broke, fix it 'till it is..."
Es gibt nichts, zu befürchten, aber befürchtet sich.
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#43675 05/22/2003 11:53 PM | Joined: Oct 2001 Posts: 3,458 Extreme Gabster | Extreme Gabster Joined: Oct 2001 Posts: 3,458 | That's not really their original purpose, they were there for casting. Something has to index the cylinder bores to the water jacket.
Stove bolt motors are also famous for rusting out between the bottom of the water jacket and the crankcase or outside of the block when the coolant isn't flushed often enough. Pull the water pump and check for lots of scale in the block.
Paint & Body Shop moderator A lone amateur built the Ark. A large group of professionals built the Titanic. | | |
#43676 05/23/2003 3:22 PM | Joined: Jun 2000 Posts: 2,773 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Jun 2000 Posts: 2,773 | Those steel soft plugs are prone to rusting. They aren't too hard to remove if you can access them. If they're rusty enough you can drive a screwdriver throught them and pry them out. If they're solid, get a big sheet metal screw and run it in, then pry on the head. The hard one is between the bell housing and the block. I have started replacing them with brass, your parts store should be able to sell you the right ones if you know the diameter and style. They're either a cup or dish style.
Fred 52 3600 69 C-10
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#43677 05/23/2003 3:31 PM | Joined: Feb 2001 Posts: 1,897 Member | Member Joined: Feb 2001 Posts: 1,897 | Also, coat the inside face and edge of the plugs with a thin film of aviation form-a-gasket. It will help to seal and prevent internal corrosion of the plug.
There is enough good in the worst of us and enough bad in the best of us that it does not behoove any of us to criticize the rest of us. - - Be yourself. If you are ever lost, It will be much easier to find yourself if you know who you are!
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#43678 05/23/2003 3:47 PM | Joined: May 2003 Posts: 22 Junior Member | Junior Member Joined: May 2003 Posts: 22 | Thanks for all the advice. After closer inspection the coolant is leaking from three of the plugs. I talked to my NAPA dealer and he's pretty confident he can match up the plugs.
'50, '59, 1/2T, GMC
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#43679 05/23/2003 5:49 PM | Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,112 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,112 | I had quite a time trying to get my side ones out. All I was doing was creating more holes. Then my machinist told me to take about a 1/2" dull chisel, and hit it on the side to tip it in so that the other side tips outwards. The next step is to grab it and yank it out. Those ones on the side of the block can easily be knocked right inside the water jacket, and then the fun begins! | | |
#43680 05/23/2003 7:43 PM | Joined: May 2003 Posts: 22 Junior Member | Junior Member Joined: May 2003 Posts: 22 | Well...loks like I have a 3" hairline crack below the 5th freeze plug on the side. Don't what I'll do now.
'50, '59, 1/2T, GMC
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#43681 05/23/2003 9:26 PM | Joined: Jan 2001 Posts: 687 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Jan 2001 Posts: 687 | tater, Your reasonable options just went down to one - time to find a new block. Your only other option is to try to repair the hairline crack. I would always be afraid of the crack extending beyond the already split area. So I wouldn't be able to use the block with any certain peace of mind. Who knows. There may be other cracks/problems you have yet to discover. -ftyler | | |
#43682 05/23/2003 9:37 PM | Joined: May 2003 Posts: 22 Junior Member | Junior Member Joined: May 2003 Posts: 22 | I did a search on the forum and saw a post where a guy used a Hi temp epoxy product to fix the problem. Sounds like a band-aid, but I have to save up a little cash to get a new block, maybe a temp fix will last until I do that.
'50, '59, 1/2T, GMC
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#43683 05/25/2003 3:14 PM | Joined: Apr 2003 Posts: 608 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Apr 2003 Posts: 608 | tater... you can also try J B Weld  | | |
#43684 05/25/2003 3:25 PM | Joined: Apr 2001 Posts: 12 Member | Member Joined: Apr 2001 Posts: 12 | Jb! JB! JB! WO WO WO!!!! Man, I love that stuff. Fixed a crack in my head...well the head on my 305e. Have had no problems since. I would find another block though. No tellin where else she split. Good luck.
Knuckle Buster
I ain't hidin from nobody, Nobody's hidin from me. Mr. Breeze
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#43685 05/25/2003 5:12 PM | Joined: May 2003 Posts: 22 Junior Member | Junior Member Joined: May 2003 Posts: 22 | Would it help if I drilled each end of the crack to keep it from splitting further?
'50, '59, 1/2T, GMC
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#43686 05/25/2003 6:37 PM | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,262 Bubba - Curmudgeon | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,262 | tater,
JB Weld is worth a try (trust Paul Harvey and stevesr and Kenner).
Several years ago I had a leaking "freeze" plug and I most likely cracked the block of 261 above the rear/side plug when trying to remove it. After fixing the leak and finding the crack, and after crying to myself, I figured "what the hey"; might as well try that JB Weld stuff.
No leaks in 5 years. It IS worth a try. I drilled an indentation at each end of the crack in my block before I carefully cleand-up the area and applied JB Weld.
Good luck, Tim | | |
#43687 05/26/2003 7:32 AM | Joined: Oct 2001 Posts: 3,458 Extreme Gabster | Extreme Gabster Joined: Oct 2001 Posts: 3,458 | Maybe you are lucky and it's not really a crack. My old 216 had a funny ripple in the casting that looked like a crack but was just a crinkle in the surface. Hit it with a wire brush or grinder and see what happens. Cracks can also be stiched- they drill and tap the crack for special plugs and then keep doing that in a line and it fixes it right up.
Paint & Body Shop moderator A lone amateur built the Ark. A large group of professionals built the Titanic. | | |
#43688 05/26/2003 9:16 AM | Joined: Feb 2001 Posts: 1,096 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Feb 2001 Posts: 1,096 | Tater , these old stovebolts are often seen cracked along the water jacket at the base of the cylinders ,, they will continue to run for years with a little sealer applied ,, say ,, some JB weld applied to the outside , or some Chemi Weld in the radiator . I welded the block in my '39 truck once ,, drained the water out , drove it over to the workshop , had the block stinkin' hot , got the arc welder out and stitched it up , made a heck of a mess  tossed a can of ChemiWeld in and continued to use the truck for another 60,000 miles . If all your frost plugs are rotten , then the block is maybe heavily corroded and sludged up inside too , I believe this is when that crack eventuates ,, Pull a frost plug and see what it is like inside , maybe flush it out with the hose , but most of all "Don't Panic"  | | |
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