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Mod | | Forums66 Topics126,777 Posts1,039,282 Members48,100 | Most Online2,175 Jul 21st, 2025 | | | Joined: Sep 2007 Posts: 55 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2007 Posts: 55 | Bought the '54 1 ton panel 2/07. It was hauled up out of Bakersfeild, CA where it had been parked for at least 10 years. It arrived 3/07 and with a bit of tinkering and gravity flow gassoline it ran beautifully. Overall it is in GREAT shape, but sat and dried things out. Now it has duel brake system and brakes done all around, (looking for 16" rear drums however). Fuel tank cleaned, lines replaced, etc. Then, wouldn't start, no fuel, fuel pump dried out, new fuel pump put on. Still won't start, carb leaking, EVERYWHERE. Carb rebuilt, obviously has been rebuilt several times in the past (rebuild marks). New glass bowl filter connected just before the carb. Argh, now there's fuel in the oil too. Still doesn't start and fuel still leaking from carb (small amount) and carb filling up with fuel. What could be causing this? Too much pressure from the fuel pump? or what? If to much pressure, how is this corrected? Oh, also has new starter switch. Sorry, no pics, no camera, no knowhow. Bettyann | | | | Joined: Mar 2006 Posts: 1,703 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Mar 2006 Posts: 1,703 | well i would assume that there is a new needle /seat assy and float in the carb after rebuild. first i would make sure there is not any crap on the needle an seat. then check the float for proper level adjustment. if they test OK ..then you may need to get a fuel pressure gauge and put in the line before the carb an get a reading on how many PSI the fuel pump is putting out, anything over 7 lb. is gonna be a prob. Napa and pretty much any parts shop will have a fuel pressure regulator set at 7lb. BUT being ME I would bet $ on dirt in the needle seat assy. or a bad/not set to right hieght float. not the fuel pump. Tim P.S. get that contaminated oil outta the motor A.S.A.P. ...before proceeding further soos ya dont spin a bearing in the lower end.
| | | | Joined: Sep 2007 Posts: 55 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2007 Posts: 55 | Thanks Tim for the feedback. The oils getting changed again for sure, just changed it, what a waste. What you said is basically what we were thinking, we just weren't sure, or where to go. Bettyann | | | | Joined: Sep 2007 Posts: 55 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2007 Posts: 55 | Well, the pressure is greater than 7 lbs. Don't know how much greater because it slams to its capacity. Must have a MIGHTY spring in there. Anyway, it doesn't seem like we should have to buy a regulator when the pump is new and should be the currect pressure. Says in the old shop manuals that the pressure should only be 3.6-4.6 psi (don't quote me, I'm at work and don't have the book in front of me for accuracy). Back to the supplier and find out if it is the currect pump. Bettyann | | | | Joined: Oct 2005 Posts: 1,317 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Oct 2005 Posts: 1,317 | Just a suggestion....I added an inexpensive fuel pressure regulator (Mr. Gasket) to my dual carb setup and they function perfectly at 3.5 psi. My unregulated pump was putting out 6 psi which seemed to be a little more than my needle valves wanted. Once you get your float height dialed in and if you are still experiencing fuel issues, I'd try an adjustable regulator set at 3.5 psi.
Dave | | | | Joined: Sep 2007 Posts: 55 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2007 Posts: 55 | Thanks Dave. I called Jim Carter's where we got the double action pump, talked with their tech. No one seems to know why the pressure is greater than 7 psi but the answer remains the same, put on a regulator. Just seems as if a new pump should be right without now buying a regulator. But it's off to Kragen I go, they have one on the shelf. Maybe I should have gotten the pump from them after all. Bettyann | | | | Joined: Mar 2006 Posts: 1,703 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Mar 2006 Posts: 1,703 | yup ..put a regulator on her an she should settle down . | | | | Joined: Jan 2008 Posts: 4,903 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2008 Posts: 4,903 | I have had new needle and seat to leak even with the pressure right. There are new defective needles and seat occasionally and the naked eye cannot see what is wrong. Just in case regulating your pressure doesn't fix it. | | | | Joined: Sep 2007 Posts: 55 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2007 Posts: 55 | The regulator is on but the gas is not getting past the carb. So the carb is back off again, to make sure everything is O.K. | | | | Joined: Sep 2007 Posts: 55 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2007 Posts: 55 | Well, I think I should have put this under, "it ran when I parked it". This should probably go under a new topic heading. It still is not starting, but there are new problems now, whith the old ones seemingly fixed (won't know for sure until the darn thing starts). Moisture is in the cylinders and the plugs are getting wet. The only thing we haven't corrected is changing the gasoline tainted oil. The gas tank was cleaned and dried well. Maybe bad gas? maybe condensation? maybe bad head gasket after all these years of not running? I'm just the apprentice wrench fetcher. But with the mechanic I'm working with and you guys, I'm learning a lot, thanks. A few minor adjustments were made on the carb and everything was moved to a running '54 1/2 ton with a '54 engine, the only thing needing to be changed was the dwell and it con't to run fine, so back to the 1 ton with a'57 engine, now the moisture problem and the beast is still not starting. | | | | Joined: Feb 2007 Posts: 385 Wrench Fetcher | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Feb 2007 Posts: 385 | As I understand it, the older carbs didn't like more than about 3.5 psig. If the fuel pressure is too high, it will push the needle off the seat and fill the carb with gas, which will eventually spill over into the engine.
You might want to consider a Spectre 2517 from Summit Racing.
Last edited by starkweatherr; 07/09/2008 2:17 PM.
195? Chevy 3800 dump truck 1973 Chevy C30 cab and chassis 1987 Suburban 3/4 ton 6.2L Diesel
| | | | Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 28,674 Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) | Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 28,674 | I have experienced repeated instances where fuel-soaked spark plugs would refuse to start an engine, even after they were dried out, or even sandblasted. Try a new set of plugs, or possibly line the plugs up on a piece of steel and work them over with a Propane torch until the insulator glows red hot. It's simpler to just install a new set of plugs, unless you're way out in the boonies where new ones aren't available! Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
| | | | Joined: Sep 2007 Posts: 55 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2007 Posts: 55 | We have a running '54, I think the one we're working on is a '57? engine (block #F0926A). Each part (carb, coil, etc) has been systematically moved from the '57 to the '54 and the '54 still ran. New plugs where purchased for the '54 and it's plugs, which were recently new, were moved to the '57. Compression check showed the pressure was low in 4 cylinders. Replacing the head gasket showed the water ports in the head were plugged with rust. We had gotten good compression last year before we started it up and it sounded great then. Now the compression is 130 or better in all cylinders except #3 which is 105 (actually varies 60-110, but 105 most consistant) It still refuses to start. We put a regulator on the fuel line and set at 3.5. Carbs not leaking anymore. Now thinking maybe cam shaft timing, maybe lost a woodruff, who knows. | | | | Joined: Sep 2007 Posts: 55 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2007 Posts: 55 | IT STARTED! IT'S RUNNING! I'm dancing in the streets. Not really, but I'm really excited. See "wet plugs" for details if interested. | | |
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