The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area General Truck Talk prop valve help...

hey guys, got any suggestions for this new problem ?

Went outside and tried bench bleeding the master like the tech said.

Now it goes all the way in, seems like the front portion, which feeds the front brakes, shoots fluid out of the line very good, but the rear portion, closest to the booster, which feeds the rear brakes, don’t come out too good. But the rear brakes were not giving me any problems.

And to top it off, the master piston takes about 1.5 - 2 minutes to completely come all the way back to the snap ring.

I called performanceonline and he said he will have to call the manufacturer tomorrow and give me a call.

I told him I am very mad, since I have been wrestling with this thing for a week now, first with the banjo leak, which I hope if totally fixed, and now this problem. He said all he can do is call me tomorrow.

He originally said if it bleeds good, to put 2 plugs in each port and try to push in. if it stops at about.250 of an inch, then the master is good. If it would go in more than .250 of an inch, then the seal inside probably rolled over and is leaking, and to then take the piston out and fix the seal on the piston.

But he don’t know what is making the piston take 1-2 minutes to come back to the sanp ring.

any ideas guys ? a weak spring maybe ?

leonard

If it were me, I'd have done taken it apart to see if the cups and things were properly installed.

If a M/C has a seal capable of 'rolling over' & making my brake system ineffective, I don't want it on my ride. The fact that he thinks thats possible would be enough for me to return it. Measure the bore, get a bolt spacing dimension, take that info to a good parts hose & speaking of NAPA here, they'll have a paper catalog with this info. Pick a commonly available one that meets your needs. You will be able to replace/rebuild it for years later in any town. Beware of poorly engineered/quality controlled aftermarket components, usually made offshore.
Just my humble opinion here.
Good Luck, Doug

cletis and desert dog,t thanks much for your input.

for now i will bite my tongue, but when i get the brakes done and working, i will tell you all exactly what the tech told me to do, and you wont believe it. for now i will keep quiet, in case i still need returns from them, but you will freak, believe me.

i decided to take the master piston assembly out, and everything seemed to be fine, so i just reinstalled it and then tried to re-bench bleed. it worked great, even the piston coming back to the snap ring without any problem.

then i installed the plugs like he suggested, and could only push the piston in about 1/4 inch, so the master checked out good.
installed it on the truck, and was going to call it a day, but got antsy and wanted to at least hand vacuum pump bleed each wheel, so i went for it.

did the backs first, passenger then drivers, no problem, got very little air in the beginning, then all fluid. backs were great.
then went to the fronts, first passenger side. for the past 3 days all i got out of the fronts was air, and very little fluid. but this time, the passenger side gave me fluid, so i thought i was on a roll.

went to teh drivers front, last wheel, and was getting totally air, almost no fluid. could not figure it out. at least the banjo was not leaking, so i sat back and looked at it, and thought for the heck of it, amybe it is sucking air around the bleeder threads. wrapped it with some teflon tape, and son of a gun, it got the air out and started pulling fluid !!!!

i guess that drivers front caliper is just about wore out, the banjo seating surface and the threads for the bleeder.

so, i am feeling confident that tomorrow, hopefully, i can sucessfully bleed the entire system with no leaks. then i can fire up my eninge, the first time in 4 weeks, and see if the booster works, which it better. LOL

and hopefully test drive after i rig up a temp drivers side exhaust pipe.
i got my fingers crossed, but i think i can finally see the light at the end of the tunnel.

by good buddy dave, fla54chevy3100, told me in the beginning to only buy the bearing spacers and bracket, and get the master and calipers and rotors locally, and i wish i would have listened to him. if any of you are thinking of doing this install, i would do it that way.
just like desertdog said also, you can get the parts locally.

performanceonline wanted me to send the master to north carolina and wait on it to be looked at and wait for about 2 weeks. no way i will ever do a kit like this again, especially from them

thanks much, and i will post tomorrow on my bleeding results.

leonard

Hy RATRODKING, good luck with the rest of your brake bleeding, I'm glad you perseveered [spleling]. How are you feeling after your stone smashing?

3B, i sent you PM, dont want to get too far off subject here and get in trouble. LOL.

the smashing went well.

gonna head out now and try to bleed the entire system. and hope i odnt have any banjo leaks. then go from there. i will report when i get done..leonard

There have been a couple of things discussed here that are, in a single word, just plain WRONG.

I'll start with the pin sticking out the front of the combination valve. That is the METERING VALVE and has absolutely noting to do with the "Pressure Differential Switch". That is the name for the light switch you've let yourself get side tracked with.

The COMBINATION VALVE is just that. A combination of three separate, unrelated devises combined into ONE package.
Some factory COMBO valves include a residual for a fourth.

There is no reason you can't use a proportion valve in the combo valve, PLUS a second proportion valve. It would have one distinct advantage. You would probably never, ever wear out the rear brakes, because they would only be lightly dragging at best. The front disc will do 95% of the braking and will wear much faster.

Most Pressure Differential Switch's DO NOT cut fluid flow to the side the has a failure. It simply turns the light on. I would hope that if their combination switch did have that feature of stopping the flow, they would have made sure you were well aware of it. It can make it harder to bleed and wouldn't be what they would want to sell to DIY'ers.

The metering valve that is in the combo valve is a good thing. It keeps your girl friends head away from the dash or sun visor when you first jump on the brakes. Some cars are more susceptible to nose dive than others.
Some metering valves will require you to EITHER hold the pin IN or pull it OUT in order to bleed the front brakes. Ask the people that supplied the kit.

What ever you do, logic should tell you, that you need to fix the leak FIRST. Logic should also tell you that after looking at several other calipers, the problem is the bolt, the hoses or you.
Try this web site. It does a great job of explaining the various brake valves.
Combination Valves

richard, thanks much for your input.

i did get it going, and it is running/braking fine.

i do know that all the help these other guys gave me it did work, wether right or wrong, so i am greatful to finally have my 57 back on the road.

thanks much for your help also.

leonard