The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area General Truck Talk prop valve help...

Well, got a lot done, but problems persist. It is trying to kill me.

i have a complete power front disc brake kit, booster and master cylinder witht he factory style proportioning valve mounted under the master cylinder, all from performanceonline.com.

I went to bleed the system at all 4 wheels, backs were fine, fronts only a very little bit of fluid.

Read the instructions that came with the kit, and it says use a test light on the proportioning valve sensor, if it lights up then the valve is sticking.

They say to open the system with he flow, in this case it is the back, and slowly depress pedal with steady pressure until light goes out. Then close bleeders.

Wonder if this means to press pedal until light goes out, then hold it there while someone closes the 2 rear bleeders ?

I didn’t really do it that way, working by myself at the time,I went inside and pressed the pedal, then let it come back up. Checked it and it was still stuck. Opened them all up, hit the pedal, tried a few different things, and somehow got lucky. The test light didn’t light up, so it was good.

Then I noticed the banjo brass washers were leaking on the front calipers. Took them off, looked at them, reinstalled. Same problem, they were leaking. Take both sides off, then try to bleed the fronts, and not enough pressure coming to the fronts.

Get back under the truck with the test light and it is lit again, meaning the prop valve is stuck again, not allowing enough pressure to the fronts.

I had to quit for the day, since I need more brake fluid and want to get some new brass banjo washers for the front calipers.

So, my questions are:

Any tricks, ideas, on how to get the factory style proportioning valve that is mounted under the master to operate properly ?

Why would the brass banjo washers be leaking ? they came with the kit and the stainless flexible hoses.

I tell you what, I will never do this type of install ever again. It has been too much work for me. I don’t have the patinence. Next time I will gladly pay someone to install the power brakes for me.

None of the fittings leaked, except for one that was on the master, from them, so I loosened, wiggled the line, retightened, and it is now fine. So I am at least happy none of the fittings, connections leak, except for the banjo washers.

Hopefully another set of new ones will do the trick.

gonna head to autozone and get the brass washers, more brake fluid, and call it a day.
tomorrow morning i will try to bleed the system again, hoping to get the prop valve working again so i can get pressure tot he fronts, and hope the brass washers dont leak....the fun continues.

thanks guys...leonard

Hy RATRODKING, when one system develops pressure and the other one does not. The proportioning valve reads that as a hole or leak in the system with little or no pressure, and the valve shuttles over to shut off flow to that system. That can make it very hard to bleed the system that had no pressure. Try putting everything back together, and then bleed the fronts, once you get most of the air out and are able to develope pressure in both systems the valve may recenter itself by constant pressure on the pedal. Some valves have a manual reset feature, a rubber cover over the plunger rod, press the rubber cover in towards the center of the valve, until the light goes out, then bleed again very slowly, or the valve will shut off flow again. If you have speed bleeders, open one of your rears while bleeding the fronts, this should stop the valve from shuting off flow to the front system while bleeding, hope that helps.

You have to get something to hold the valve centered while you are bleeding or you will be chasing your tail forever. If the valve has a plunger like the GM style, you can make a right angle "tool" that clamps under one of the bolts. Look in any service manual for a picture of what you need to make. After you get the valve centered a set of self bleeders from Napa will finish the job in no time flat.Hope this helps !!

38, and gtow69, thanks so much.
38, i do see at the one end of my prop valve a black cover cap. i took it off and yes, there is a little nipple thing there that i guess you are talking about, just press that in and it will release it and let it find center again ? seems easy enough.

gtow69, are you taling about a tool to hold that little push button thing in ? i dont really understand.

i had it correct at one time, but i guess the little leaks that i was getting from the banjo front caliper brass washers might have made it go back to block.

thanks so much guys, it never ceases to amaze me of the knowledge of all you guys on here...i learn something new every day.

leonard

Do you have a picture of the proportioning valve?

Sounds like you have a plan now.
But I'm curious about this plunger thing. I have a GM normal looking valve on my truck, and have never had a problem like you have, nor have I noticed a place to push and re center the valve. Sounds like in the future I'll use the kind I already have, and avoid the kind you have, but what does yours look like?

Thanks,
Grigg

grigg...here is a pic, but not a good one though, of the prop valve.

http://s251.photobucket.com/albums/...00/?action=view&current=DSC01539.jpg

i have tried to push in on the little nipple plunger to no avail. i have the rear bleeders open, press on the pedal, and test light still lit. still stuck in one position.
and my banko wasers are still leaking, after installing new ones. very very frustrating.

i am about to take the factory style kit installed prop valve off and replumb around it. i do have a rear individual prop valve installed, along witht his factory style, so i could do without it.

but before i do i will have to wait until tomorrow to call customer service.

leonard thanks

well, i give up for the day, because if i play wiht it anymore i will break something. seriously, this is really killing me.

i have tried everything to get the prop valve to unstick. nothing. and im not sure if it being stuck is causing too much pressure tot he fronts, because i am stil getting a leaking banjo brass washers on the drivers side front.

i will callt he tech line tomorrow and see what they say, and just maybe i will replumb around that dang prop valve and do away with it.

has anyone else done away with the factory style prop valve ? i do have a rear manual prop valve installed, so maybe that is all i would need ?
the factory prop valve i really getting to me. cant figure it out.

i will take a few pics and post the prop valve when i stops pouring rain...

leonard

Thanks,
Best I can tell that is the same valve I have used on three different trucks now, but never had a problem bleeding the brakes. Now I'll have to go look for this plunger thing, I'm curious. I have also never had a wire or test light on the terminal, so perhaps mine is always stuck, but the brakes work perfect?

Grigg

guys, here are a few pics of my factory style prop combination valve that came with the kit...thanks. leonard

http://s251.photobucket.com/albums/...00/?action=view&current=DSC01567.jpg

http://s251.photobucket.com/albums/...00/?action=view&current=DSC01566.jpg

http://s251.photobucket.com/albums/...00/?action=view&current=DSC01565.jpg

This is a real long shot, but is it possible you've got your calipers reversed? Don't ask how I know this, but reversing them causes all kinds of weird problems.

Well, the overall shape is the same, but mine don't have the button in the middle.

Another thing, looks like you plugged one of the ports on the proportioning valve that could go to a front wheel, I don't think this is a problem, or is it? Do you have a T fitting at the left front that then feeds the right front? The trucks I have put together with the similar looking but different proportioning valve I have run two separate lines from the valve to the front wheels.
Also, did you use Teflon tape on that plug? I thought it was inverted flare, and needed no sealant, or is it 1/8" pipe?

Do you have rear disc or drums? And if you have drums did you use a 1/4" line going to the rear axle? Just a guess, but if you have 3/16" going to drums it could create enough of a restriction to cause the proportioning valve to act funny?

Grigg

tom R, thanks.
but not sure what you mean by having the calipers reversed ?
i do have the lines coming out of the prop valve connected correctly i do know that.
very frustrating. i have given up for the day. i will call the kits tech line tomorrow and ask them how to get it unstuck.

i even took the little button thing compltetly off and some fluid came out, and tapped on the bottom of the prop valve, and it is still stuck.
if the problems still persist, i will replumb the 2 lines and bypass their prop/combination valve.

and im hoping the front banjo fittings and brass washers will stop leaking when i do get that fixed, or that is another problem i will be dealing with. i used their washers and got new ones and still leaking.

i always like to buy complete kits from one place, new,to hopefully do away with any problems such as this, but this time it didnt help.

thanks much leonard

thanks much..leonard

Hy RATRODKING, I understand that you're frustrated, but calm down. We will help you, but you need to understand that we're not standing there with you, we have to react to what you tell us. Firstly, there is no situation where "too much pressure" is developed in one system, causing a leak. Do you have a copper washer on each side of your banjo fitting, they must have a washer on each side or they won't seal. Your pictures of the proportioning valve seem to show that the plunger is all the way in, so pushing it won't help the light go out, or the valve to center. Close your rear bleeders, and gently press on the pedal with your test light in position, when the light goes out, stop pushing. Now you can check the position of the plunger with the light out. Some of the guys have reffered to a bracket to hold the plunger to stop it from shuttling in one direction while bleeding, this is the position you want to hold the plunger in. I would not even think about removing the proportioning valve from the system, if the valve is in good condition we should be able to make it work. Once you have the valve centered, you can try bleeding the front brakes again, because your rears will develop pressure, the valve may shuttle to shut off flow to the fronts again, that's why some guys make a bracket to stop that from happening. If you can get your fronts bled and your leaks stopped you should be there, hope that helps.

3B, sorry to get frustrated. thats my temper.LOL.

yep, i have the brass wahers on each side of the banjo fitting. used their washers, it leaked, then i bought new ones, and they leak also. so, if there is no way to have too much pressure, that is gonna be another problem i will have to deal with.
not usre if the clipers are rebuilt or new, but probably rebuilt. the mating surface seems to be a little bit pitted.
not sure if i could try to fix that myself, or am i gonna have to buy new calipers ?

on the plunger, i even took the thing all the way out and tapped on the underside and the light still wont go out.

ok, i see you want me to close the rear bleeders and press the pedal until the test light goes out ? i have not done it that way yet, just pressing on the pedal a few times and getting back undert he truck to check the light. so i guess i will do it your way, having my dad push the pedal slowly and see if the light will go out that way.
but what do i do when and if the light does go out ? let up on the brake pedal ?

and if the pluger is now not sticking out, and i even took it completly out, and it still is lit up, then what can i do ?
it seems to be a 2 piece valve. does that sound correct ? because i had the part in my hand that has the little plunger on it, but seems like there might be another one inside it further inside.

i did plumb in a separate rear proportioning valve so i could fine tune it if need be. with that manual separate prop valve in the rear system, i should be ok if i want to bypass the favtory style prop/combination valve correct ?

i want to thank you guys so much for your help. i do understand that it is very hard to ehlp over the internet like this.

i really appreciate it a whole bunch,

thanks..leonard

Try annealing your copper washers.
With the lights off in the shop hang the washers on a wire and heat them with a torch, propane is fine, until they just glow red, then you can either let them air cool, or dunk them in water, same results.
Clean them with some steel wool, or lightly file them flat, or slide them across some sand paper laid on a flat surface.
Then reinstall them after checking for burs and scratches on the banjo block, caliper, and under side of the head on the bolts.

Grigg

grigg, thanks. they do kind of seem to hard.
i will try that on the extra set i now have, the ones that came with the kit.
i upgraded to stainless steel flex hose, and always buy kit form, but this time it didnt work. LOL.
i expect some problems along the way, but this is not right. leaky banjo washers and stuck prop valve, etc.

but i will try your idea tomorrow morning and see what happens.

thanks much..leonard

is it possible, if the calipers were rebuilt, reworked, that the banjo bolt is bottoming out and not letting it crush the washer ?
just thinking..leonard

Possible, but not likely, although you could have the wrong banjo bolt.
To check remove the copper washers, then reinstall the block and the bolt only finger tight. Is the block then tight or loose, in other words, has the bolt clamped it tight?
If so the you have the right one, and can reinstall the washers. If it is loose then you have a bolt that is to long, or a block that is to thin.

Grigg

hello all..

i think i may have found the banjo leak problem.

went to 2 different autozones and did some invstigative work, looked at their camaro calipers, which are what mine are from the kit, and theirs have 3 to 4 rings around the banjo bolt hole, i assume to help seal the copper washer when tightened.

came home and looked at the ones they sent me and are on the truck, and it is basicall smooth, a little roungh, but no rings at all.

so i guess i will buy 2 new calipers from autozone, 15 bucks each, and give them mine from the kit for cores.

i aint gonna wait for the place i bought the kit from to send me another pair, that will be another week. but when i call them to ask about the prop valve, i will complain about the calipers and try to get 30 bucks put back on my credit card.

and, im assumming that the little rings cast into that area will seal up and stop my leaks. i sure hope so, then all i gotta worry about is the prop valve.

what do you guys think ? does that sound right, about the little sealing rings around the washer mount area ?

thanks much...leonard

now i really am confused.

Went to autozone to buy 2 front calipers, and one had the sealing rings in the banjo washer area, and the other did not, looking just like the one I currently have on my truck.

So I didn’t want to buy that, because it would probably leak as my current one is.

So he pulls another one, different color box, and it is cadmium plated, looking new. He said yes, it is new. I look at that washer area and it is smooth, no sealing rings at all.

I am at a loss. If I buy rebuilt calipers and they still leak, I will really be upset. And what if brand new ones are smooth, how will it seal ?

Im gonna hold off for now and call Chevrolet and see what they get for brand new calipers. Gotta be expensive im sure. Probably 150 bucks compared to the 15 dollar rebuilt ones at autozone.

Also will check with napa and see what theirs looks like…tomorrow will be a wasted day also..just cant get ahead. LOL.

leonard

Your comb. valve is doing just what its supposed to do - close off one end if there is a massive leak there. Since you have air in the front lines & can't build any press., thats what it thinks is happening.
To get it back to center, sometimes stomping on the pedal like in an emergency stooping situation, it will center itself. Or, if while the pedal has press. applied, the line to the rears is cracked open, it'll shift it to center.
Once it is centered, to proceed bleeding without off-centering it again, do this. Remove the elect. switch on top & using a bolt of the same threads, make up a tool that'll screw in there & reach down to prevent the valve from shifting end to end. There's a 'low spot' on the valve spool the switch normally rides in & the ramps on the sises are what trigger the switch when it moves. Your tool should pysically prevent this motion & then it'll have to stay centered until you're done bleeding.
Doug

thanks desert dog.
sounds logical.
so, i will want someone to apply slow pedal pressure while the rears are cracked open, and me laying under the truck watching the test light, until it goes out, have the person on the pedal stop at that moment while i go and close the rears ?
i have not done it that way. i have been leaving the rears open, pumping the pedal slowly, then getting undewr the truck and test lighting it again, to no avail.
i will try it your way and see what happens.
of course, i guess i gotta fix the front banjo leak first huh ?
then i will try to make a tool with the same threads to screw into that cocket to hole the valve in that position while bleeding.
wil it want to leak ?

thanks so much..leonard

DESERTDOG, i just got in for outside. i pulled the switch plug, and then pulled the end cap, pushed in on the valve with a small diameter screw driver, and got the valve back to center. reinstalled everything and the test light dont light up.

i didnt have a 1/2-20 bolt to fab a holder with, so i used a length of .125 welding rod, the same size as the diameter of the switch pin, and bent it to where i will be able to clamp it to a brake line keeping it in place when bleeding, of cours after i fix the banjo leaks.
do you think this rod will hold the valve from moving, or will i have to use a fabbed up 1/2-20 bolt, grinding a nipple on it, or tig welding a little nipple onto the end of the bolt ?
there was no fluid coming out of the switch hole, do you think it will leak when i do go to bleed the brakes ?
dont seem like the switch area gets too much pressure, since it is plastic and only sealed with an o-ring.

thanks so much..i see a little progress now..

leonard

Leonard, O.K., you got the idea now. Even if it does off-center again, you know how to reset it now. I'd wait & make up a bolt/tool. Sounds like you have some fab. skills so just keep in mind you DON'T want to push down with pressure & bend the shuttle valve, just put a 'blocker' in the middle to prevent it from sliding end to end.
Shouldn't be much press. there but a small leak should have no bad effect.
Did you try annealing the cu. washers as suggested to make them softer so as to seat & seal better? I've never had to do that, but when you're working on someone elses equip. (and getting paid by the job) you tend to pull things down tighter & harder.
Doug

Hy RATRODKING, there should be no pressure or fluid in or around the switch activating rod. It sounds like you have invented something to hold the valve in position while you bleed your front brakes, bravo. Now as to your leaky banjo fittings, do both calipers leak? I've seen both types of calipers over the years, some with concentric rings around the ports, and some plain ones. I've seen both types hold pressure, usually if you have a leak, you have some type of damage in the seat area, or a damaged washer, hope that helps, and keep us informed please.

desertdog,
i will try to come up with something better than what i made tonight, using a 1/2-20 bolt instead of jsut the rod i made tonight.
i got laid off form my machinsts job last week, or i could easily turn down a bolt on the lathe. darn it all. LOL.

i did heat the washers up with my propane torch and let them cool, but didnt try and mount them yet. they didnt look too good, and i need to get some sandpaper to clean up the crud that formed on them from the heating process.

3B, today it seems only the drivers side leaked, but yesterday both were. i used the copper washers supplied witht he ss brake line kit, and they elaked, then bought new washers from autozone and they leak also. it seems that the seat area is smooth, but pitted slightly, maybe form corrosion over the years, and who knows how many times they ahve been repaired, rebuilt ?
i will try to find an auto store who has a set of calipers with the rings, and maybe even try chevrolet for some new ones.
i get tot he point where i will buy new calipers just so i dont have to mess with it anymore.
i really feel it is the mounting surface area that is causing the problem.

thanks so much for all your help.

i fell a bit better tonight knowing that i can at least now move the valve if it gets stuck again, and hopfully my current tool will hold it from moving while bleeding the brakes, once i get the banjos form leaking.

leonard

Being a machinist, you would understand how to spot face the sealing surface on the calipers right? if they are scratched or pitted then you can correct that rather quickly. If you like you could give them the concentric rings to seal (they called it a phonographic finish in the big machine shop I worked at), or just clean and flat, and perpendicular to the bolt hole will seal too.

To clean the scale off the washers a scotch Britte works too, or put them in your pocket with your change for a day. If you heat them dull read and quench in water, often all the scale will fall off right then.

Grigg

I feel your pain I went thru the exact same thing. I ened up getting a 1/2-20X1 set screw and turning the end to a pin. Worked like a charm, Get some speed bleeders at the local parts house they work great on a one man bleed job. Make sure you torque the caliper hose bolt to 22 Ft/lbs sound like a lot but its the spec and they should stop leaking.

grigg, when i heated the washers i let them cool normally, i didnt quench them. some of the scale is a bit tough to get off, even with scothbrite. i may try and reheat them and then quench.
but while i am out of the house this morning, i am gonna see if chevrolet has the washers witht he grooves in them, hoping to make it seal better than the flat autozone washers.

never really heard of spot facing or phonographic finish, and will admit i was a grene horn machinist, before i got laid off.

thoroco, thanks much for your input also. i wish i had a little lathe here at the house. LOL. another tool to buy...

thanks much guys, and i will post what i find later today, before i head to weld school..leonard

What I meant by having the calipers reversed is having the left caliper on the right side of the car, and vice versa.

I recently put new calipers on a Chrysler, and they had no indication on them as to which was left and right. As usual, having a 50-50 chance at getting it right meant I guessed wrong, so mine were reversed. What happened? Well, I couldn't get any pedal. Bleeding got a little fluid, but it didn't bring up the pedal. Perhaps that's what you're up against? Unlikely that your calipers aren't marked, though. Like I said, a real longshot.

Oh, and those copper washers are a pain in the butt. I had to take mine apart two or three times, clean up the seats, and reinstall things to get them to seat properly and not leak. You do have a washer under the head of the bolt as well as at the block itself, right?

Leonard, If you can't find the washers at a G.M. dealer, try NAPA.
Doug

tom, now i got it.
i am sure i have the calipers mounted correctly, with the bleeders pointing up. but yes, you sure can get them on wrong, and there is no markings as to which is which. and yep, i have 2 washers per side, bolt, washer, banjo brake fitting, washer, caliper.

desert dog, i got new washers from napa this morning. they seem to be a tad thicker than the ones from autozone.

while i was at napa i looked at their calipers. one looked decent and the other looked just like mine, pitted a bit and worn down ring grooves on the copper washer mounting area.

a friend suggested trying permatex thread sealer, cleaning the area with brake fluid and putting a small amount on the washer mount area, putting it all together and let dry, hoping the sealant will fill in the low spots.

so, i did just that, and will let it set for at least 24 hours and give it a bleed try again tomorrow sometime.
if it still leaks, i will hunt down a good looking caliper from one of my local auto parts dealers.

thanks again so much guys...wish me luck for tomorrow. LOL.

leonard

RRK,

I was concerned about your plumbing, but went to CPPs site and looked at basic Proportioning Valve plumbing. You are plumbed correctly. Proportioning valve diagram

My next concern is this, and I do not know if this has anything to do with the problems you are having, everything I have read about using an adjustable proportioning valve states that the original factory valve must be removed from the system. Having two valves trying to do the job of one in this situation can be disasterous. If you want the adjustability of the manual valve, get rid of the factory style and use the required items to complete the system. That is residual valves and metering valve. If they are applicable to your system.

I think you are going down the wrong road with both valves installed in the system.

Lonnie

http://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/s.../hl/sealing+washer/fromsearch/1/#1441852

Leonard - check this out. IMO a sealer is not what you want on a high press. (brake) line.
Doug

lonnie.
i calld performanceonline, the kit maker, and told them how i have it plumbed, with their master and factory style prop,combination valve, then to the fronts i have a 2lb residual valve, then a t, then to both fronts.
out back i have rom the master, then a 10lb residual valve, then the adjustable prop valve, then to the t on the differential, then to each rear.
thye said the rear adjustable prop valev should be fine, since it will throw 150psi to the rears berfore sending anything to the fronts, since it takes more to stop drums than discs.

he didnt like that i installed a 2lb residual valve going to the fronts, and said to make sure after i get it successfully bled to make sure i can turn the front discs without the calipers dragging. if they are dragging, then i ahve to take the 2lb residual out of the loop. if it dont drag, then i will be fine.
but 2 weeks ago i talked to another guy at the same place and he said the added 2lb residual valve is just insurance to stop the fluid to flow back tot he master, since it is an under the floor master. if i were to park it forward on an incline it could drain the brake fluid back into the master giving me a sft pedal. so 2 different guys there telling me 2 different things. LOL.
but i do appreciate your input for sure. thanks.

desertdog, thanks much also. the guy i talked to also said to tighten the heck out of the banjo bolt, dont be affraid. so i got the thread sealer on the ounting surface and tightened the heck out of it. i hope to bleed the system in the morning.
and i am hoping i dont have a leak. if i do, i am going to get another drivers side caliper with better mounting surface.

thanks much guys...leonard

also, i called chevrolet, and they only make 1 side new for a 1970-1978 camaro, cant remember which side, but it was 350 bucks new. so even if it is the side i need, i aint going that route. LOL.

Leonard, Man do I feel for you, if that is of any value. It looks like the guys on here have a wealth of info, so that is on your side.

I have been planning to make the same conversion, [6 lug vs your 5 lug] and have already purchased the power booster, under floor bracket and caliper brakets, so I will be waiting to see you finish before I start! I had planned to buy the calipers and rotors and hardware at NAPA to save on shipping. I had also planned to vaccum bleed with a tool I bought but wonder based on the comments of others if I should go with the speed bleeders?

You have mentioned a couple times the combination valve and wanting to remove it, what impact will that have on the overall performance of the system? I had not planned to install one and go only with a rear adjustable valve, but then read on one of the brake manufacture sites that this is not street legal. Can anyone comment on this? My thought behind no combination valve was that how would you know which one to buy for a truck that using disc/ drum that has a different mass and distribution than todays cars? With the exception of the pita of the safety vavle it seems cleaner and easier to use the combination vavle.

Lenard
Double check all your adjustments and fix the leak first.
I know you bench bled, but try this also...
rebleed the master on the truck at the inlet AND outlet side of your new valve sometimes a SMALL amount of air in the valve itself will cause wierd problems. Then standard bleed pattern starting with the longest line first. Get a helper and do not push more 1/2 way down on the brake pedal, close off the valve while it still has pressure.
I had a 88 pu that drove me nuts one time, similar problem m/c & rear brakes = major headache. air and a rear drum that did not seat right and had to be readjusted.

57 vroom vroom, come on man, jump in. LOL.

on purchasing the calipers at napa, or any other place, all i can say is look at the area where the banko copper crush washer will wount. you want it to have 3 or 4 rings around where the banjo bolt goes through. that way when you tighten the bolt it will help seal up tot he washer. the one on my passenger is way better than my drivers side, and the drivers side is giving me problems. i looked at napas calipers today,a nd they looked bad like my drivers side. at some point, i guess these things are getting rebuilt and blasted and they are eventually gonna wear out.

on the combination valve, since it came with the kit i want to try to keep it. from the experts on here and my personal expert dave from central florida, i am betting that the front leak was making my combination prop valve go to one side, shutting down the front system. im hoping once i fix the front leak that it will be fine. i know of some guys who have not run the cmbination valve, just running a rear adjustable prop valve, as you want to do, so i guess that is ok.
maybe the kit makers are just covering their behinds when they include it in the kit. i am running both, and the kit supplier said that is ok.

brsdb3381, the kit supplier suggested bench bleeding without the combination prop valve installed on the master, so that is the way i did it. when i put the combination valve on i let it gravity bleed out of the outlet holes before installing the front and brake lines. hopefully that is good enough.

i got a busy day tomorrow, getting a kidney stone blasted, but i hope to fit in just enough time to try and bleed the system againa nd see if the left front is gonna leak. man, i sure hope it dont. that will be very depressing. i have some thread sealant on the mounting surface of the caliper,a nd really tightened the banjo bolt good. if it still leaks, i will hunt all my local auto parts stores for a decent looking left caliper and go from there. if i cent get a good one, then i maihgt have top try a willwood or other manufactured one that will bolt directly to my caliper brackets, whaich are for 1970-78 camaro.

thanks so much all you experts on here. every day i learn something new from everyone on this site.

also, 57 vroom vroom, do you have any pics of your 57 ?

thanks guys...leonard

Well, so far no leaks on the front banjo fittings, so that is good.

Used my 1/8 weld rod combo/prop valve holder, and that is holding it in place lso. So that is good.

Got all the air out of the rear brakes, so that is good.

But, no matter what I do, vacuum bleed, regular pedal pump bleeding the fronts, there is a lot of air and it don’t apply the front brakes enough to where I can still turn them by hand.

Called the tech guy where I got the kit, and he thinks the master seal inside has rolled over. He said to take the master out, bench bleed again and make sure there are no bubbles. Then block off the both ports with plugs. All this is without the combo/prop valve installed while bleeding.
Then, after bench bled, if I can push the rod in more than ¼ of an inch, then the seal has rolled over on the master shaft. He said to take the snap ring off and take the rod out and see, it will be obvious. If so, just flip it over and install and bench bleed again, then reinstall on the truck and try that.

So, I have got the master out and in the vise, but I gotta go and get my kidney stone blasted at 2pm, but when I get back I will try to at least get all that done and put it back in the truck, so I can try to bleed the system again tomorrow… the fun never ends. LOL.

I just hope that when the fronts get full pressure that the banjos fitting don’t start to leak again…..

leonard