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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Dec 2006 Posts: 22 Apprentice | | Apprentice Joined: Dec 2006 Posts: 22 | I inherited an partially completed 58 Apache with a small block Chev. I'm at the wiring part and am a bit unsure of where a couple of wires go. The alternator is a one wire internally regulated type. Where does that one wire go? The battery, ammeter, fuse block,?? Also, there are three wires going to the starter solenoid, one of which has no connector. One of the other connects to the same terminal that the battery cable does and the third one hooks up to another much smaller terminal. What could that third wire be for and where do those wires end up connected to when they get into the cab?
Thanks,
Fleetside Bob
Fleetside Bob
| | | | | Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 5,708 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 5,708 | Bob,
Here are some ideas, I hope they are accurate. Your truck had a generator. If that wiring is still on the firewall, your alternator output could tie into the old regulator BATT wire and it would route it through the ammeter just like it did before.
The '58 has a complicated key switch that has the resistor bypass in it during that START cycle. The schematic I have of a '58 (could be home-drawn) shows only a single wire from key switch to 'S' terminal, and the large 10 gauge or so from ammeter + to large, common lug on the solenoid.
There sometimes is a third wire from the 'R' terminal on the solenoid to the coil side of the ballast resistor, but in your rig, it is usually handled by the key switch, so I can't be certain what the third wire is.
To get net...alternator output usually goes to the - side of the ammeter.
Ammeter + will feed the battery through a large wire to the common lug on the solenoid.
A small wire from keyswitch to 'S' terminal pulls the solenoid in during START.
I don't know how much original wiring your truck has, or if someone has tagged a unfused accessory off the solenoid. If the key switch has been changed, maybe the bypass circuit in the solenoid was being utilized.
I hope I have helped you and not confused you more.
Stuart | | | | | Joined: Dec 2006 Posts: 22 Apprentice | | Apprentice Joined: Dec 2006 Posts: 22 | Wow. Actually there is none of the original wiring left. A lot of wiring was done about 20 years ago and some since then too. Lots of extraneous wires that I'm trying to eliminate. The steering column is later model with the key switch on it. About half way down the column is a 4" long switch(?) with some heavy wires coming to it and from it to the fuse panel.
If I understand you correctly, it sounds like the alternator wire goes to the - side of the ammeter. Is that the ground side and if it's not marked does it make a difference? The wire going to the big lug on the starter connects to the + side of the ammeter. The "S" terminal on the starter connects to the key switch, perhaps that thing on the column. Am I heading the right direction?
Thanks and while I am a bit confused, I'm getting there and I do appreciate your input.
Fleetside Bob
| | | | | Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 5,708 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 5,708 | Bob,
Yes, you're getting there. I put a '76 column in my old truck. The ignition switch was indeed located mid column and actuated by the switch by means of a long rod.
The ammeter wouldn't have a ground side. The neg, or - corresponds to 'discharge' on the meter face. Simply stated, the voltage generated by the alternator goes to the - side of the ammeter, through it to the +, or charge side and on to the battery by way of the large stud on the starter solenoid.
The - side of the ammeter also would connect to the key switch which would switch all the loads to the fuse block. When the key is turned OFF, any switched device would be denergized.
Because you are using the newer steering column with key, your bypass circuit would probably go through the solenoid. My bet would be you are going with a GM HEI that would preclude any bypass monkey motion. Even if you retained a coil type ignition, a internally resisted coil would also do away with extra wires and associated BS.
You will need to identify the START/RUN and ACC positions on your column mounted switch. A ohmmeter would be a necessity for this type of work.
More help is probably on the way! Good luck.
Stuart | | | | | Joined: Dec 2006 Posts: 22 Apprentice | | Apprentice Joined: Dec 2006 Posts: 22 | Well, we're getting there. Now I'm at the steering column and finding that the wires from the starter switch are pretty messy with about three or four going directly to the fuse panel and some other loose Same problem with the neutral safety switch. Do have a diagram showing what goes where?
Thanks,
Bob
Fleetside Bob
| | | | | Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 5,708 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 5,708 | Bob,
The appropriate wiring diagram would be tied to whatever year column you have. What is the steering column out of?
There is another way to approach it. Make a list of all the functions that come out of the column area. These would be things like START, RUN, ACC, BACKUP LIGHTS (maybe), NEUTRAL STARTER SAFETY SWITCH, HORN...etc
If you have a little multi-meter with a Ohm function, you can identify each wire and and check it off your list. After you identify what each wire or terminal does, you can proceed to the next step, which is how do I wire it to accomplish this.
Let us know what the column is out of and maybe there is a schematic for that car or truck.
Stuart | | |
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