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| | Forums66 Topics126,781 Posts1,039,297 Members48,100 | Most Online2,175 Jul 21st, 2025 | | | Joined: Jan 2007 Posts: 199 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Jan 2007 Posts: 199 | I have both the new windshield and gasket. My Apache has the stainless Deluxe trim to go around the new windshield. Does the gasket go on the glass, then in the frame? Does the stainless go in after the windshield is in or as a unit? This truck had nothing installed when I got it. I have read enough to know I want to get professional installation but want to insure I understand the correct procedure when I talk to them. Appreciate the help. Ralph | | | | Joined: Mar 2008 Posts: 3,750 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2008 Posts: 3,750 | Hi Rasman, I work in the glass trade,although I personally haven't fitted trims to the Tri-Chevy pick-up I would imagine the trim is fitted along with the rubber and then fitted as a complete assembly. Maybe fellow 'Bolter' wilbur is watching and could join in with some of his wisdom!  Alternatively go to the members list and contact him directly. I'm quite sure he could point you in the right direction! Hope this helps Jock  1950 Chevy Advance Design 3100 in ScotlandIn the Stovebolt GalleryMore pix on Flickr. I've definately got this truck thing in my blood ... my DNA sequence has torque settings"Of all the small nations of this earth,perhaps only the ancient Greeks surpass the Scots in their contribution to mankind" Winston Churchill.
| | | | Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 427 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 427 | Goes in as an assembly. Gasket on glass, trim placed in gasket.
get a 1/4in rope long enough to wrap around the gasket in the pinchweld opening, ending somewhere on the bottom of the gasket. Overlap about 3 in. and tape to the inside of the glass. place strips of tape around the glass,gasket and trim to hold everthing together while installing. Place assembly into opening of truck, have someone on the outside putting pressure on the glass near where the rope starts and have them follow the rope around as you pull it. I also helps to use window cleaner as a lube to pull the gasket around the pinchweld. If necessary have your helper slap the glass, open handed as the gasket starts to go over the pinchweld. This will help seat it. continue around the glass till the rope pulls out. Then slap the glass,open handed till the gasket fully seats itself.
These are a real PITA so us patients went doing this, it might take a few tries and you"ll learn from each try.
Good friggin luck, | | | | Joined: Jan 2008 Posts: 493 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Jan 2008 Posts: 493 | Wilber. I was thinking that sounds easy enough. Until I got to the Good friggin luck. Great info I am going to give it a run soon.
Neil | | | | Joined: Jan 2007 Posts: 199 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Jan 2007 Posts: 199 | Thanks guys. There is no way I am gonna do this alone. I will find a shop that has done these and I will get additional education. I appreciate the info so I know what is supposed to happen. Ralph | | | | Joined: Jan 2007 Posts: 161 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Jan 2007 Posts: 161 | I'm in the middle of doing this. I'm going to put the glass in tomorrow. but I'm wondering: my shop manual says to use cement, but I don't see anyone mentioning this at all? do we skip that these days? | | | | Joined: Feb 2002 Posts: 12,029 Cruising in the Passing Lane | Cruising in the Passing Lane Joined: Feb 2002 Posts: 12,029 | I skipped it, and the pro glass guys I've talked too don't use any, the new rubber should seal well
Bill | | | | Joined: Mar 2008 Posts: 3,750 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2008 Posts: 3,750 | Thanks wilbur! I though that posting might catch your attention! It's usually one of those jobs where you call on the help of a friend! Just as an add on.... Rasman,try and not let the glass get too warm,i.e. don't do it in direct sunlight! Strange things happen to glass when it gets too hot and don't slap the glass too hard!  Especially at the point where the cord passes over the pinchweld! As wilbur said, Good *******' Luck! Jock  1950 Chevy Advance Design 3100 in ScotlandIn the Stovebolt GalleryMore pix on Flickr. I've definately got this truck thing in my blood ... my DNA sequence has torque settings"Of all the small nations of this earth,perhaps only the ancient Greeks surpass the Scots in their contribution to mankind" Winston Churchill.
| | | | Joined: Jan 2007 Posts: 615 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Jan 2007 Posts: 615 | Let me know how it works out. I've read the instructions about using the cord many times over the years but since I usually work alone I don't think I'll attemp it. I wonder if those guys that come to your home to replace windshields could handle it. Are windshields in newer cars still held in the same way? Same installation process?
Keith | | | | Joined: Feb 2002 Posts: 12,029 Cruising in the Passing Lane | Cruising in the Passing Lane Joined: Feb 2002 Posts: 12,029 | no Slick, very different setups nowadays, although many commercial vehicles used the old way and most glass installers that have been around awhile will be familiar - many will balk at the dogleg shape tho  another thing to be careful with is used windshields that have ANY chips on the edge, which can result in cracks if the wrong stress is applied, like slapping nearby  Bill | | | | Joined: Mar 2006 Posts: 1,703 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Mar 2006 Posts: 1,703 | Slick, yes it deffinately a 2 man job, me an my son did mine with the rope trick an it worked out great with him carefully followin my lead around the perimeter, one useful tool is a dental pick with a hook on it, lube it up with dishwashin soap an it is works great in the hard corners to pull that pesky gasket just when ya need it to comply.
| | | | Joined: Jul 2007 Posts: 461 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Jul 2007 Posts: 461 | The installation method of using a cord as described by others is exactly the way windshields were installed in the past. I would use a smaller line for the 'rip' cord, something like a chalk line, or a little larger, rather than the 1/4" rope mentioned. I will emphasize what was said eariler, that you start seating the glass at the bottom, so gravity helps. Start in the center of the glass and work both ways around the glass. I would further suggest that you have a couple of feet extra cord for pulling on, and hang on to one end while you pull the other; then switch and pull on the other side, to work the glass evenly. The slapping is usually necessary, but I have found that putting your hands flat on the glass and pulling downward while pushing inward, gently, also helps. Be especially cautious around the side curves in the glass. Slapping/pounding at the curve can break the glass, and pushing sideways on the side portion of the glass is a sure way to break it, although you may have to push lightly there to seat the glass.
The cement mentioned by someone should not be used, if the reference is actually to an adhesive cement, but originally a caulking compound was used. Caulking is messy, but it doesn't have the adhesive quality of 'cements.' You can use caulking if you want to- the hardware store stuff for window caulking, as long as it is considered non-hardening.
Harvester | | | | Joined: May 2001 Posts: 7,440 Extreme Gabster | Extreme Gabster Joined: May 2001 Posts: 7,440 | I used parachute cord. I wouldn't want to use anything smaller for fear of cutting through the rubber. | | | | Joined: Jan 2007 Posts: 199 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Jan 2007 Posts: 199 | Good experienced advice..... I did the rear window (small) quite easily with a helper but it was a much different installation. The Factory manual shows the windshield seal/gasket, I assume with the larger "extra" flap of rubber on the up side inside. right? Also the manual shows trim clips slid into the reveal molding on the bottom piece of the four only. Is that correct? Trim clips on the lower stainless piece of trim? If it all goes in as a unit, I can't see that working out. Am I misssing something here for this 59 Apache...... Ralph | | | | Joined: Jun 2007 Posts: 17 Apprentice | Apprentice Joined: Jun 2007 Posts: 17 | Thanks y'all, I'm going to have to do this job when the time comes, and these posts will make it alot less scary.
TG | | | | Joined: Jan 2007 Posts: 199 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Jan 2007 Posts: 199 | Disregard the trim clip question...I know realize that is the INSIDE reveal molding..DUH. The manual drawing goofed me up a bit which is fairly easy to do. This is gonna be fun to do! | | | | Joined: Dec 2006 Posts: 42 Wrench Fetcher | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Dec 2006 Posts: 42 | I all but gave up trying to put the glass in a 55 2nd series. I even went for professional help and their advice was to trim the windshield. As it turned out, the new rubber was way too big. I didn't have anything to compare it too. I ordered another rubber from a diferent supplier and it all but fell in. Good luck. | | | | Joined: Jan 2007 Posts: 199 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Jan 2007 Posts: 199 | Robert, Where was the too big rubber gasket from? I hope it was not made by PRECISION in a green and clear plastic bag. I got mine from Carters and was hoping for a STEEELE product as I have had success with their stuff before. I am hoping this one is as good or better. | | | | Joined: Jan 2007 Posts: 161 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Jan 2007 Posts: 161 | did it. all alone, no lube used. it is very very doable, easier than aligning doors, harder than valve adjusting. and highly satisfying. we've had a few thunderstorm since installation, and it is watertight. I decided to write a tech tip about it, if our honorable stovebolt editors find it worthy to publish. I used the gasket from classicparts. but I'm sure there's other vendors that provide a good gasket. | | |
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