The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop old 235 removed, newer 235 ready to go in soon

Well today was a big day. I pulled the old 235 out of my '50 1/2 ton. I have a newer 235 ready to go in after I clean it up and swap the water pump for the short shaft model (the other one had the long shaft and a hacked up radiator shroud area). Here's my question: to get the engine out I unhooked, unbolted, and disconnected everything I could find. Hiwever, I wasn't 100% sure about how the driveshaft came loose so I unbolted the mounting (support) bracket, unscrewed the collar, and took out the 4 bolts on the ball area (I left my manual at the garage so I'm not sure what the exact term for that joint is). I put a jack stand under the shaft to support it when the trans/engine came out. Anyhow, was that the right way to do it? Is there a gasket that should have been there? It must have been apart before because there was blue sealant there, but no gasket.

Is there anything else I really should do before the other engine goes in> It's not an overhauled engine, but I know it runs well (and the price was right). I'm going to use the bell housing off the original 235 and mate it up to the original 3-speed. I'll get a new clutch plate for it before I install. Also decide to leave the 12V components on the new engine since they're already there (older 235 was 6V). I'll make all the other changes I need to for that. I want to keep the foot starter so I'll take the 6 V starter to the shop and have them convert it to 12V (please correct me if there's another way to go on that).

Thanks in advance for the help. I don't know much about these old trucks but I'm having fun! I've solved many little problems with my project by just reading the current posts and researching the tech articles. Once I get the truck runing again I'll post a picture.

You don't need to do anything to the starter, it will work fine on 12 volts. You will need a ballast resistor for the coil on the later engine and a 12 volt voltage regulator to match the 12 volt generator. A voltage reducer will be required for the fuel gauge & radio. Change to 12V light bulbs.
Fred

thanks -- how can i tell if the coil has a built-in ballast resistor?

The transmission seems to be in good working order, but is there anything I should have done before it goes back in?

The 6v starter will be OK as long as you take the 6v flywheel with the bellhousing (clutch housing).

"Is there a gasket that should have been there? It must have been apart before because there was blue sealant there, but no gasket. "

Are you asking about gaskets between the transmission and the bell-housing, the bell-housing and the block, and/or, between the halves of the u-joint housing?

Well there's always the "might as wells" ..As long as the engines out "might as well" put a clutch disk and throw out bearing..I'm in the same boat- putting my engine next week..I'd rather not replace these parts considering all the other spending I've been doing...But I'll possibly kick myself down the road for not doing it while it was realitively eazy..

just a thought..

Keith

Keith - I know how you feel. I bit the bullet and ordered the clutch set today.

The gasket I was wondering about is for the surface between the u-Joint housing halves. Is there one made for that or should I just use a sealant?

Marc,

There is a set of gaskets for "sealing the bell/ball". The set includes 3-6 bell/ball gaskets, a large cork seal, and a rubber rear/torque-tube seal.

And, there is a very good and detailed procedure for determining how many gaskets are needed.

Tim

Thanks for the info Tim. I ordered the gasket set today.

If anyone is interested, if have a bellhousing for a '58 235 and a 3 speed trans. Both are from a 1958 Chevy Biscayne. I have no use for them. I also know someone with a good 235 out of a '60 pickup that can be acquired for a few dollars (I think he was going to throw it out).