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Mod | | | Forums66 Topics128,115 Posts1,056,632 Members48,450 | | Most Online14,466
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#41087 10/20/2004 7:35 PM | Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 39 Junior Member | | Junior Member Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 39 | Hi everyone,
I have a 1958 Chevy PU and I have been trying to get the rear axle bearing out with no luck. I removed the retaining clip and rollers but can not get the puller hooked on any thing other than the inner bearing stop.I installed the retainer clip and put a little pressure on it but no luck.
Thanks for any help.
paul
Paul
When you do a good deed, get a receipt just incase HEAVEN is
like....the IRS
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#41088 10/21/2004 3:43 AM | Joined: May 2001 Posts: 7,438 Extreme Gabster | | Extreme Gabster Joined: May 2001 Posts: 7,438 | Are you using a slide hammer? If not try it. | | |
#41089 10/21/2004 9:04 AM | Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 39 Junior Member | | Junior Member Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 39 | Yes I am using a 3 jawed slide hammer.
Thanks Paul
Paul
When you do a good deed, get a receipt just incase HEAVEN is
like....the IRS
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#41090 10/21/2004 9:12 PM | Joined: Oct 2001 Posts: 3,458 Extreme Gabster | | Extreme Gabster Joined: Oct 2001 Posts: 3,458 | Here's a little trick I learned from a mechanic at the paper mill my dad used to manage:
Outer bearing races can be really tough to remove if they were press fit. They have often corroded to the axle tube over time. If you can gut the rest of the bearing (and i suspect you have if you are using a slide hammer), you can get it out easily with a wirefeed welder. Just weld a good heavy bead all the way around the inside of the outer race where the bearings were riding and let it cool for a few minutes. Then it should come out with gentle tapping. The weld kills the temper of the metal and shrinks the outer race as it cools, making it smaller. Of course, you need a new bearing now, but you did anyway, right?
I have actually done this. My BMW rear wheel bearings are double row balls with a stub axle going through them, pressed into the control arm. They normally require a special tool from BMW which costs about $400. Using this trick I was able to replace the bearing and fit a new one for about $50 and 1 hour labor. A shop would charge about $350 for this repair. No damage was done to the control arm by the welding, I clamped the ground clamp to it and used the 130 amp setting on my welder, too.
When you go to install the new bearing put it in the freezer for a few hours first and it will slide right in.
Paint & Body Shop moderator
A lone amateur built the Ark. A large group of professionals built the Titanic. | | |
#41091 10/22/2004 4:35 PM | Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,115 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,115 | 4ontheFloor,
is this the same BMW that you said was well designed and so really great to work on? | | |
#41092 10/22/2004 6:41 PM | Joined: Oct 2001 Posts: 3,458 Extreme Gabster | | Extreme Gabster Joined: Oct 2001 Posts: 3,458 | Yeah, I guess I did, didn't I? :rolleyes:
The rest of the car makes sense though.
Paint & Body Shop moderator
A lone amateur built the Ark. A large group of professionals built the Titanic. | | |
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