The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The HiPo Shop Frame leveling - IFS install

Hello -

I am prepping my frame for an IFS kit install (55 2nd series).

According to No Limit, I need to level the entire frame. I have it so that the bubble is dead on from front to back (both sides), the bubble is on the line from side to side in the engine bay, and the bubble is dead on side to side behind the cab.

I just measured and realized that the upper and bottom horizontal pieces of the frame rail run at different angles. (The mouth of the C shape reduces as it gets closer to the front cross member.)

I am leveling the top, isn't that the side I should be leveling?

Any thoughts?

Thanks!

Ross

The top or straight section of the rails should be level as well as side to side should be level. The side to side level should be checked in several places to make sure the frame does not have any damage, or a twist. Any damage to the frame needs to be addressed before any modifications are preformed.

The reason the manufacturer of the kit has you level the frame is so that you will always have a baseline for reference. At any time during your modification you can check to make sure all things are as when you started. It will also be necessasary when installing parts of the kit. The instructions may tell you to install something at a certain angle.

Having the frame level will also keep you from building a twist into the frame.

Lonnie -

Thanks for the information.

That reaffirms what I was thinking. I spent a lot of time this weekend thinking it through and leveling, and releveling. I am so close; I just have to figure out side to side level in the front end.

Everything is square, it is just as if the passenger side rail is almost an 1/8" higher than drivers side.

I think I will go from the cab to front at regular intervals checking for level across the rails. Maybe I get a better idea of what is going on.

It is great to hear the rationale you gave.

Thanks again,

Ross

A couple of more thoughts.

1. If the cab is still attached to the frame, it can affect the frame. You may want to unbolt it and support it so the frame is free to act on its own.

2. This may or not be complicated, but I will try to explain. If both rails are level and straight (the majority of the TF frame is straight) then any place along the frame that is checked across the frame rails will also be level. At the front where the frame drops down, this should also be level if the frame has not been damaged. This drop can be checked by referring to the assembly manual. The assembly manual will also give other references as to the frame being within specs. Something to remember is that the flanges on the frame are not always square to the web of the frame. The level may be sitting on the toe of one side and the heel of the other side. This can cause out of level conditions from side to side; while the rails are level to each other.

3. Another thing, does your level read true. That is, does it read the same when it is rotated end for end with the same side up.

4. If the frame is what it is, 1/8 higher on one side. Remember that the difference can be split and that makes one side down almost 1/16 of an inch while the other side is up almost 1/16 of an inch. When it is looked at in this prospective, it may well be within the tolerences needed for your cross member install.

Good luck on your install, and remember measure, measure, check and measure and check some more before welding.

Have fun.

Lonnie

Its been a few years since I installed mine.But as I recall I had my frame leveled for a reference point. The main issue was making sure everything was measured true and sqared up before welding in the crossmember.In other words,if you level your frame,then you can also check your crossmember for level.I can very well remember measuring mine several times for location,front to back,before I struck the first arc.

Its been a few years since I installed mine.But as I recall I had my frame leveled for a reference point. The main issue was making sure everything was measured true and sqared up before welding in the crossmember.In other words,if you level your frame,then you can also check your crossmember for level.I can very well remember measuring mine several times for location,front to back,before I struck the first arc.

More helpful advice. Thanks guys!

I believe I will pull off the cab this weekend and see if it changes the level of the rails. I figure I have to get under there eventaully to clean it up and paint. Might as well do it now!

I will get back to you guys and let you know the results. I have examined that frame over several times now and I do not see any signs of damage or frame bending from an accident. I am keeping my fingers crossed that removing the cab will level it off.

Ross